Duncan

It is worth saying that every car should have had child seat anchors installed when it was complied before first registration. Sadly a lot of workshops seem to skip that step

dotras I'm not sure but DOTARS are the federal govt department that issue import approvals for every car that enters the country. They will have a record of how your car entered and with what sort of approval that should help https://infrastructure.gov.au/vehicles/imports/

where are you putting the oil in? does it have an extended or factory sump? if you run the car after topping up the oil and then open the radiator cap do you have a milkshake? is there a huge pool of oil under your car?

Well firstly, I'm not familiar with VQ series so I might mislead you... You didn't say what actually happens when you try and start it? Does it crank but not fire? Does it crank quickly? When you say you know it's not fuel is that for sure? I would run the fuel hose return to a bucket/jerry can/whatever temporarily and crank it to see plenty of fuel coming out. If so I'd take the CAS off, turn the ignition on and listen for injector clicking as I turned the CAS. Also, do you have some sort of fuel pressure gauge to be sure the base pressure is right? With the spark I'd take a coil pack off, put a spark plug on it and crank to look for physical spark at the plug Do you know the timing is right? That would also stop it starting. And yes, I would expect an auto will not start unless you have bridged the neutral and/or park signal at the auto loom. If you don't want to connect the auto loom wires to the gearbox neutral switch at least bridge the park wires. No resistor required it will just be either a simple connected (or not) circuit that you can bridge. But I guess it will not even crank unless the park or neutral signal is there (maybe that's why you said you needed to bridge the starter solenoid) Finally, the ECU probably needs a start signal as well as the starter motor. So if your bypass does not apply 12v to the start signal at the key the ECU may have decided the engine has stalled and to turn the fuel and spark off.

There will be something, somewhere. Maybe in the driver or passenger's door jab if not under the bonnet. Who did you buy it from? If nothing else, you can contact DOTARS and get a copy of the import approval based on your japanese VIN#. It will be something like ER34-xxxxxx.

unlike regular globes, LEDs generally have a polarity. So remove the one that isn't working, turn 180o and replace, it will probably do the trick

I assumed he meant removing it from the hub, and no I don't know any way to do it on the car either. take it to a workshop and let them swear at it

BTW it really doesn't matter what the plug is for. If it troubles you clean it with some brake cleaner.

Overfilling would cause that symptom through the breather when it gets hot, so yes removing some fluid is where I would start. Did you have it changed recently?

If a "mechanic" has looked at it I suggest you find a new mechanic Assuming they are right about it being auto trans fluid, there are a few and easily checked places where it could be leaking from. Keep in mind auto trans fluid and power steer fluid look the same so the source might be mis-diagnosed

well, I don't know what that specific plug is for but it's kind of beside the point because whatever the fluid is will be coming from somewhere else and ending up there. It's 2wd, right? And auto or manual? Up high on the engine the only real leak points are engine oil from the cam covers or breathing, or coolant. There are also breathers for the gearbox at the top bolt between the engine and gearbox, and for 4wd transfer case at the same point and front diff under the intake plenum. Leaks you should sort out, breathing is not worth worrying about too much, particularly if you just filled/overfilled something.

and there's always Nissan...I need mine if the spare engine ever goes back together....

yeah they are 1.0 pitch. "fine" or "coarse" changes depending on the bolt size, I'm not sure if 1.0 is considered fine or coarse for M7

Thanks for persisting, made me get off the keyboard and rummage around to find and measure one . Confirming they are actually M7x20mm (11mm head)

M5 is the diameter of the bolt and does mean a 5mm threaded section. the head is 8mm so you would use a 8mm spanner. 8.8 is the tensile strength of the bolt, it is printed on the head of a metric bolt. It's important you don't buy a replacement with a lower tensile strength. I don't have one to measure the length handy but from memory they are about 20mm long (from the underside of the head to the end of the thread). If you can't confirm the exact length just screw a bolt in lightly and make sure it tightens the plate/cam gear in place before the thread bottoms out. If it is too long there is no issue cutting it shorter to suit. So you would buy 8 bolts described as High Tensile (8.8 grade) M5x20mm, for example http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/M5-5MM-HIGH-TENSILE-NUT-BOLT-X10-SETS-M5-X-20MM-ZINC-GOLD-8-8-FREE-POST-/131933153719?hash=item1eb7d429b7:g:Dk8AAOSw8oFX0gMP

They're M5 (8mm head), about 20mm long. Nissan would have them but I would be happy to run any 8.8 grade bolt at the right length....so check bunnings...

Well we did another big tow, about 1400klm, this weekend, dragged the Leaf from Goulburn to Tamworth and back via the inland road (Bathurst - Mudgee - Gunnedah). It was a nice drive, stuff all traffic and lots to see. And no issues with the T which was great. We even went beyond the actual black stump on the drive.... (well actually it's a replica, because ironically the original burned down around 1910 sometime...) After that we stole the guitar and headed home Haven't really got much else done on it lately due to selling the old place, moving, racing....all first world troubles. I have changed all the interior and exterior lights to LEDs to save fuel but that's about it so far.

Like this....get a mobile broken bolt guy out. He'll tell you that you should have called before breaking the easy out but should still be able to fix it.

well you can almost certainly buy a nismo diff centre to suit it (whether or not that is GTT I'm not sure, but the catalogues will say). Same goes for Kaaz, Cusco, whoever else if you want a similar outcome cheaper. Putting a matching centre in your current diff will almost certainly be cheapest because you only need to deal with the #splines on the output shaft. You even keep your current ratio because the one in your current diff is re-used. So just call a seller who knows their catalogue and order the right part# I'd have to say though, this is a fair whack of money for something that isn't really going to make much difference, unless you are embarrassed by single spinner burnouts or something. If you genuinely want your car to drive better, swaybars or better tyres, or maybe even better brakes would be the place to start rather than the LSD.

the easiest way to improve both the angle of the ground to ramps and ramps to bed of the trailer (where sometimes zorst scrapes) is to raise the rear of the tow car on caravan leveller/ramps or similar. I've seen the same trick with a jack under the towball but I think that puts a hell of a lot of weight on a jack... And if that's not enough go the blocks of wood suggested above at the start of the ramp, you can even have them flat on the ground as long as they are lower than the distance of splitter to ground on the car. And if you can work out how to do it, long ramps are the real answer. About twice what a normal trailer allows for is lovely.

well the good news is that the exhaust ports and their studs go into the head, not the block.....which means you probably have a perfectly good (and valuable) rb30 block. the single cam rb30 head is probably worth about $3 including postage so you may be able to just swap it for another if you are trying to get it going cheaply.

Hi Joe....I don't have one I don't need....but to help people who might have one, what is your budget?

hahaha people need to be careful what questions they ask you! I wonder what a holden kingswood would look like with a 13b rotary in it?

OMG I see what you did there. And even more ironic the light reading was quite heavy!

OK, as per Neil's demand.....let me be clear that I owe the good old boys at the Titan factory an apology for suggesting the exhaust might be broken. No sign of any issue or melted wiring. Consult 3 says the issue was caused by the rear diff lock solenoid failing (9 times). But that may yet be no issue at all so fingers crossed, it did engage OK when I tried in on the weekend. Onto the next item, getting a decent anti-wombat vision light bar in place. I picked up a narva light bar and went to fabricate some mounts when.... ....I found out the front bumper is actually steel. yes steel. no plastic. like a 1979 200b. And not only that, but the good folks at Nissan were kind enough to put 2x 8mm holes within the adjustment on the narva bar's mounting, so this big arse light bar is firmly in place with no drilling, cutting, screwing, rivnuting etc etc. Awesome. Do still need to wire it in though so it's not too much use yet