Duncan

I guess that hole wasn't quite wide enough for a GTR.... And the lead nimso car is in the garage too

Bathurst is on! So the big bathurst race is on today. 52 cars on the grid so 12 hours of interest ahead still

do those ball joints on a hoist mate, they are an absolute arsehole to get out. And yes they can make the rear end horrible when they are flogged out. adjustable traction arms only help manage bump steer. the upper control arm controls camber but the traction rod changes the angle of the hub under bump. there is little point changing it unless you're also going to do the full bump steer measurements and adjustments

you'll have to describe what is happening with the factory jack more clearly. It's a mechanical screw that basically can't fail. Yes it might be slow but that's the downside of such a simple and reliable design

BTW remove the negative terminal first, you are much less likely to short anything out removing the positive that way

red circle on the problem? is a "deep socket" what you need?

The wire goes between the 2 wires in the plug. If you have 4 wires you need 2 resistors and to work out which pairs go together

Yeah look the basic issue is you are trying to go lower than the geometry allows for. suppliers have worked that out and don't make it because few people really want such a big drop, and those that try it will generally be unhappy with the results. It's your call for sure, but there's a reason people don't make that drop off the shelf. If you want to go there you'll need custom springs, and the standard shocks (or kyb or similar stock replacements) will not be firm enough to suit so the ride will be bouncy. If you want to go that low with well matched shocks and springs you should go aftermarket airbags. If you want to go that low and have it handle OK (eg not be unpredictable under bumps) it would cost 000s in custom suspension geometry. Basically, if you want to go this way just buy cheap coil overs, drop them as low as possible and see what you think. springs and shocks need to work together, and standard shocks will not support what you are looking for.

do you have a hand controller as well? If you go under sensor check you can see which sensor is causing the check light. my guess would be it won't cause the light because it would just read a broken wire as some sort of very low temp. but that's just a guess....

girdle bolts are awesome for that job if you have spares

Christian another user lost access here; looks like email issue is continuting....

Looks like either you or someone else got the button before I had to, is everything working now?

Just read that manual, the top 4 pins on the connector are the 4 i mentioned, and page 15 says just choose the "ECU mode". Looks like it should just work......

It's likely to be quite simple, generally a CAN connection only needs 4 wires (power, earth, hi and low CAN signal). If they say the dash understands haltech it's likely to be as easy as making the connection and choosing some sort of "read CAN" option on the microtech But i haven't specifically worked with those 2, I used haltech and iq3 dash.

Yes they do screw right off, but they can also seize over time and when they do they can twist until they break instead of undoing. Try a little wd40 over a couple of days, and use a flare nut spanner if you can. But odds are it's going to break and you'll need to replace it.

I did a bit of work on the wiring in Neil's radical as an example, the only circuits are: ECU and loom requirements including an ignition and start switch, fuel pump relay and wiring, ECU relay. Kill switch between alternator/battery and ECU loom (alternator connects to battery side of the switch so single switch kills all power to the ECU) Radiator thermo fan switch (water temp) and wiring Oil pressure, oil temp and water temp senders and wiring to the dash RPM, speed, power to the dash Brake light switch on the pedal and headlight/taillight switch There may be a couple of other things but that's about all, it doesn't have to be complex.

Well, I've never really run 2a much, and I don't know if you're looking at racing or only speed events....but from the regs.... Schedule A/B – no electrical requirements Schedule C (racing only) (h) On each automobile, other than those of the 5th Category, fitted with an electric fuel pump, the pump power supply must cut off in a maximum of six seconds after the engine stops; Can be a bit tricky depending on what else is in the car. Either the ECU must control the pump based on RPM or similar, or you can use something like an oil pressure switch to earth the fuel pump relay (with an momentary override switch to start the car) (i) Each automobile of the 2nd and 3rd Category shall be equipped with a battery isolation (master) switch which isolates the battery and stops the engine, and: (i) it shall be capable of being operated by the driver in his normal seated position; (ii) there shall be a second switch, or a remote means of operating the main switch, from the vicinity of the base of the A pillar on the driver’s side or, for an automobile with no A pillar, in a comparable position; and (iii) each external device shall be clearly marked by a symbol showing a red spark in a white-edged blue triangle of minimum edge length 150mm; This seems straightforward but I see heaps of cars that do not comply with “stops the engine”. Basic switches just isolate the battery but if you have an alternator the car will keep running. The switch needs some sort of additional circuit that stops the engine eg disconnect the ECU relay, fuel pump relay etc 2A open and closed sports car regs: 2. ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT 2.1 The component parts of a complete electric system, including generator, accumulator, warning apparatus and lamps, are compulsory. None may be of a temporary kind or addition. The entire electrical system, including lighting and warning apparatus, must be in working order at the start of the competition. The Supplementary Regulations may specify that these devices shall be in order during the whole of the event or allow for penalties in cases where the systems are not working at any time during the event. Nothing to worry about here. You just can't have things like external starters that some formula libre cars use in hillclimbs. 2.2 A self-starter in proper working order fitted to the vehicle is obligatory, and none of its parts may be removed during the event. Upon failure of the engine to start on the starting motor at the start of a competition, such car may, after the departure of other vehicles from the grid, be push started and in such cases a time penalty of one minute shall be applied to the car concerned, such penalty to be promptly advised to the car’s pit crew; but failure so to notify the pit crew shall nevertheless not expunge the penalty. Supplementary Regulations may require that other means of starting during the event be forbidden and provide for a penalty in case of the non-functioning of the self-starter during the event. Any check of the function of the starter motor will be made at scrutiny and/or in the pre-event marshalling area. So this means you need a s tarter motor and a battery at a minimum. Alternator is optional if you don't need to run longer than a battery charge and you are OK to recharge between runs if necessary. Otherwise you need the alternator and associated wiring like battery pos link, battery voltage cable, exciter/charging light in the dash, regulator (normally in the alternator) 2.3 The complete lighting system must consist of at least two dipping headlamps each of at least 125mm diameter or 160cm2 area, each of 35 Watts minimum power; and two tail lamps each of three Watts minimum power (both the above sets of lamps must be not less than 600mm apart) and at least one stop lamp of 20 Watts minimum power. If only one such stop lamp is fitted, it shall be in the central vertical plane of the vehicle. At the start of the competition, headlamps must be in effective working order and correctly aligned; the lens must be protected by a translucent shield. Pretty minor really, just need h eadlights with Hi and Lo beam, tail lights, 1 brake light. So the minimum setup is pretty simple really.

Well there's a mystery solved.....went to swap back to the powerfc to see if it would start the car....and found out the bloody haltech wasn't plugged in. I had dummy fitted the wiring to check for length and didn't come back to plug it in properly plugged it in and rpm (and everything else) started coming up ok, even the fuel pump trigger was working. On the down side it still doesn't start but since it's a untuned base map I'll do a few other checks before trying the PFC again

well according to your profile, " Member has not yet responded to email change validation email " pm sent

But all that aside, I finished testing all the extra circuits, flushed the fuel lines, shortened the oil cooler lines for a better fit. Fixed the standard dash coming on with ACC instead of IGN (setting in the smartwire) and the Haltech dash always being on (CAN power is also configurable in the smartwire). And I worked out how to dim the Haltech dash when the headlights are on, just need to run in another wire into the spare remaining smartwire switch input. Got all the way to trying to start it which didn't work..... Turns out there is some issue with the CAS signal (not sending) that I'll try and sort out next weekend, assuming that's the only issue running it will be off to painting. Also Neil banged together the switch panel, looks great, but I'll hold the pics of awesomeness until it's in the car.

Yeah I guess there are 2 ways to approach any track or race car. Almost everyone one SAU has taken the "add to a factory car" approach because a modern car just has so many damn systems to look after. Building/wiring from scratch is very unusual here and only really used with engine swaps, but would result in a much simpler system. I kind of look at mine as a hybrid because I ran under the "add stuff" model for about 15 years before this rebuild where I removed all the unnecessary stuff. But when you think about a GTR for rally use, as well as the obvious engine/ecu/fuel/ignition stuff, you've also got ABS ATTESSA power windows and doors with central locking all the road lights; parkers, headlights, taillights, reverse lights, number plate lights, indicators rally equipment and comms; intercom, terratrip, rally safe, car to pit comms for racing camera and charger data logger, gps, brake pressure etc to actually learn something about how you're driving instead of guessing zoomy stuff like boost control, boost logger, e85 sensor reliability stuff like logging voltage, fuel pressure, oil pressure, oil temp, water temp It really starts to add up, and that's why I gave up on the "add stuff" method and moved to the haltech/smartwire/dash setup to make life a little easier and more reliable

well well....I'm never really sure I trust 30 year old error/troubleshooting, but there you go, it was spot on with a very easy solution. Great to hear. you know it's possible there shouldn't be that many unplugged plugs in an engine bay

still, no reason you shouldn't be able to enjoy it anyway

well I hope it wasn't sold to you as an aussie delivered car.

wellllllll.....page C-67 says that the error code flashes every 3-4 seconds....so in theory it might be throwing code 1 which is front right wheel speed sensor. Should be easy enough to do a physical check of the sensor at the hub, the wiring to the hub in the wheel well and there is a plug where it plugs into the main loom in the engine bay on the strut tower under the throttle cable. CH-70 shows full troubleshooting for code 1. Or it's just misleading and the light is not trying to tell you 1