Duncan

I agree, it sounds like a nasty wiring issue. Potentially you drove over something while reversing and damaged the wiring so I'd start by looking at wiring under the car rather than inside

looks like the correct side to me, and good score on the light up rear panel. But you really need some wider wheels on it

Cool, thanks for the feedback. I never converted the Cima display from japanese, it was easy enough to remember the only 2 things I ever use (long term fuel economy and daylight savings clock adjustment)....will see if the Fuga annoys me enough to get a conversion. Spec I want (light colour, sunroof) isn't coming up every day so it may take a while before I get it sorted

Well R33 GTST was 184kw stock at the flywheel, so more like 140 at the wheels. Which is why the whole "400 is the new 200" thing makes me laugh.

Easiest place to get one would be beside the autobahn probably....the front inner guard liners are also poorly attached for high speed so watch out for a massive noise followed by no braking on one side after the guard liner slides under the whell.... Re the ECU Boost cut, even before you hit that you will be in parts of the stock may with retarded timing and rich AFRs, designed by the factory to protect when you are outside "normal" parameters as you are at 14psi Just do the Nistune first and fix those areas of the map, someone else can confirm but I expect it can remove the boost cut too. No need to add a checkvalve.

Good to hear an NX got saved too, not many of those ever got sold here in Oz. Do you have a leaf with a blue front badge as well or is that pic just random?

Welcome Where abouts in the middle of nowhere?....hopefully the skyline is good for wombat dodging....

Firstly, let me say, I've got no idea and never done this. If the subframe is out of the car, then the hydraulic system is disconnected and therefore the only potential pressure in the system is inside the accumulator/nitrogen cannister that you are trying to replace. That cannister surely is sealed (or that seal has failed in some way which is why you are looking to replace it) so it is just a case of unscrewing the cannister. Unfortunately the workshop manual says the attessa unit "cannot be disassembled" even though nissan sells the cannister as a part.

Umm, so on a standard gtr at least, removing the BOV vacuum line does prevent it making boost, a BOV wouldn't be much use if it couldn't bleed off all the boost a turbo makes. Also in the standard system it recirculates after the AFMs so it all works fine. This is how they used to limit boost in production car racing (pop off valve in the line between the manifold and the BOV which is triggered over a certain level, removes boost signal from BOV, BOV opens, fun over but car keeps driving fine just without any whoosh until the BOV reference sees pressure again). on the other hand, I am not certain that disconnecting a wastegate actuator will prevent any boost being built either, it depends if sufficient gas can make it through the much smaller wastegate to prevent the turbine spinning. clearly extensive testing is needed to determine best solution to OP's question.

Interesting pair of cars to change between as a comparison! I looked at both as options, and the v37 before settling on the fuga hybrid mostly due to age; my preference was the Y50 v8 because the Cima v8 had been perfect for my needs; very smooth, sufficient power for highway cruising and excellent on fuel for a 20yo car at 9.2l/100. The main differences I noticed between the Cima and say R34 skyline is the effort nissan had gone to with things like soundproofing, awesome ride from the factory suspension, generous width in the cabin, leg room etc. Of course it handled like a barge in corners but there aren't many corners on the freeway... I guess the only other question I've had is have you had anything fail/need to be replaced?

Oh I should add, if you just want to drive around the turbo car with no boost, you can remove one vacuum line to the blow off valve and all the boost will bleed off. But it will drive worse than non turbo car because the turbo cars came with lower compression in the first place

That's a bit harsh, but I agree an unmodified skyline isn't really scary fast, no matter what you are coming from. You can control how much power it is making by just changing gears at lower revs (say, below 4000) until you feel comfortable. And funnily enough, there are lots of threads on here about removing turbos from factory turbo cars due to various state P plater rules, the quick answer is it is neither cheap nor easy because the tune of the engine is substantially different

Millennials don't buy cars at all....we've hit peak global car sales, all downhill from here.

Hey Christian, not sure if you ever got to the bottom of this, but I reckon the outer diameter of the raised part that was meant to slip inside your wheel was larger than the inside of your wheel. So, when you tighten it up the wheel nuts tighten down but the whole force was pushed onto the raised lip, not the spacer. When the lip failed, all of a sudden your wheel nuts had 5mm of clearance and quickly departed. If you take a wheel off and push the spacer onto the rear of the wheel; does it slide inside so the wheel surface and spacer are flat, or does the centre lip prevent that

Ha, my broker tried to push me that way too, he is running a 200 crown hybrid But I don't bat for the other team Looks like no owners around here, it is the battery that concerns me most in a 10yo import that might be hard to replace here. So I'm just going to get battery heath checked over at a dealer in japan prior to export. I would rather have non-hybrid after 10 years old (plus I mostly do highway so hybrid system wont get much use and just adds weight) but no alternative atm other than going V37 skyline

F40 are so called because that's the ferrari they were originally on. Probably lots of cars since with the same caliper, they were just a large 4 piston caliper with radial mount so they could be moved out more easily with adapters Your problem won't be clearance to the outside of the wheel, you can fit at least 330mm discs under there before you need to remove wheel weights..... The issue is thick calipers hitting the spokes if they curve in at the outsides

you can go a fair bit bigger under 17s diameter wise, I run 324mm GTR discs under 17s. But, as you can see the caliper is close to the spokes so caliper design (height) could be a problem. The ATTKD calipers are pretty low profile so that is one way to go but I suspect R32 GTR calipers will fit too as they are very similar to what you have height wise. Kind of hard to be sure without bolting them up, and you always have the option of 5mm slip on spacers if it is too close

did you go better today Christian? I did the trailer bearings (4 of the bloody things) and brake rewiring, stagea fluid check, fire trailer refill and water transfer done so it was better than average. Even got to start the race car for the first time in a few weeks, even if only to move it back to the shed.

lol yep busted. 2 years old, 4 problems to check, and a cracked part? you are clearly meant to throw it away at the end of warranty and buy a new one

Exactly! What amazes me is that people were able to do new stuff before youtube videos. I never would have got anywhere without AvE's solutions to every problem.

lol, sounds like every day I try to work on a car Everything seems easier when it's a new day. Especially if it's not cold and rainy Plus, plenty of problems get solved in the sub conscious overnight that you'd probably never work out if you didn't take a break

Yeah that's why I was interested in experiences here. Looks like they were added to SEVS about 12 months ago so there must be some by now even if they were dealer imports that didn't sell well. http://rvcs-prodweb.dot.gov.au/sevs/D38-00 USED ELIGIBLE.htm. 4 RAWS available and not all in Vic which is handy right now! I actually think they are a little awkward on the outside but I'm driving it so won't notice Unfortunately Cima compliance stopped in 2004 when they went from DD to DE motor, and I am looking for something newer as it is for regular highway driving. Fuga is next best thing for that type of driving but only to 2009 (Y50) unless you go hybrid, so here I am.... Thanks Bob, yes I'll import but I've got that part under control. Was tempted by their free tank of fuel on Thursdays though Looking to keep the price a few thousand cheaper by importing as I'm not in any particular rush.

I'm looking into replacing the F50 Cima as the highway cruiser, it has been excellent but is a bit tired at 300,000klm. Are there any Y51 Fuga owners on here? Happy? Issues?

Well, there is a blank right above it in your car that looks suitable for mounting something. Or, if you always want to use the remote starter disconnect the factory button and either leave it unplugged (if remote works) or bridge the 2 terminals (if it doesn't work), then put spade terminals into the back of the factory switch for your kill switch. Personally I have absolutely no idea re the steering wheel, mine is a C34 which is all rb compatible where your M35 is renault era

well, if your preference is to have to buy all the hardware, whether you use the features or not, Haltech have that now too: https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-195000-nexus-r5-vcu/ And they've done some smart product development lately with the new CAN dashes and button setups But I reckon horses for courses. Almost every car doesn't use more than the basic ECU features so just use whatever your tuner prefers in your budget. I've got Link in the stagea, Haltech in the GTR, Uprev in the Titan and no ECU at all in the patrol :p, they all do what they need to.