Duncan

um yes CH-86 onwards covers this, the only tricky part really is to not drop the roll pin into the transfer case. BTW are you planning to convert the box to pull clutch or the car to push?

I think a few companies offer the service, you need pay in yen and have a japanese shipping address so you need a freight forwarder/broker. I use Jesse Streeter as he can also check non auction sources, and I think Import Monster have an english-ish website for yahoo

FAST is some old windows software by Nissan, and I think there are some website alternatives these days but I'm stuck in the past. ER33-005985 comes up as:

surely they aren't just lying around...time for a custom flywheel. BTW, care to share what a os giken rb30 is worth?

Mark follows the silicone valley "Fail Hard, Fail Fast" mantra

Welcome to the forums! It will help if you add location to your profile as different parts/specialists are available in different places. If you want to know more about the factory spec of your car, Nissan's parts software FAST has the original details of how it left the factory but we will need the japaneses VIN from the firewall, it will be something like ER33-xxxxxx. You said you need to get the car roadwrothy, what is wrong that needs to be addressed? And, in most cases turbo and manual conversions don't make financial sense, although that could be changing as the price of many of these cars are going up, not down, these days....

Can I just add, this massively shits me as well. We are putting on heat pump hot water in the new house, but almost every washer only has cold input plus a built in resistive heater. That is neither cheaper for them nor more efficient for me.

I'm afraid that is only a non-genuine remote, not the EJ1 itself

hey, don't worry about the simple mechanical stuff...how do they turn the dash upsidedown and still have it fit, where are the seat memory switches and do they work, and does the beeper still go off when the driver's door opens with the key in the ignition. so many questions! I've got a LHD>RHD converted Titan and that stuff just blows my mind. So much work in the cabin of a modern conversion...

A little off track, but I understand those clips you've shown are series1-2 R33. Apparently s3 R33 had a better designed clip installed and retrofit is possible.

With respect to whoever built it last time, unless they offer to correct their error for free, I would not be going back there. They can't fall out if everything is assembled correctly.

well, your profile nor post says which car / box, but potentially much cheaper to pull and rebuild. some of the Rb boxes are getting very expensive these days. Few hours labour for box in and out if you can't do it. depending on whether the bearings and synchros are still good to reuse it may just be a few hours to refit the keys.

yeah sorry I'm no gearbox expert. I guess it needs to come apart and may as well be checked/rebuilt while out. The clips/keys hold the synchro hub assembly together and I think there are 3 per hub so perhaps the other one is holding in there for now, I was wondering if it was crunch shifting between a particular pair of gears.

They are syncroniser clips, and would more commonly be found holding your syncro hubs together. Did you change your oil for a reason?

sorry mate but it's hard not to chuckle. you have a sickness

Thanks, fixed that too. I am not sure how hilarious that joke was in the first 2 seconds, but it never should have been in place so long. Is the car a Y34 Gloria/Cedric?

Hi Bahadir, welcome to the forum. I have fixed problems with the autoreplace function

definitely square is rear per the manual, but it doesn't make any difference to how the car runs...

Do you have the wrong style of bellhousing (ie push instead of pull) or none at all? Whether push or pull the bellhousing should have the slave cylinder mounts cast into it(you may need to drill and tap them), and everything else in the bellhousing is the same. However, the front plate for the gearbox is different between push and pull due to the different thrust bearing mountings

Now it's a bit warmer...and keeping in mind this is GTR not GTST, I run eibach 0800.250.0450 front and 0800.250.0350 rear. 0800 means 8" long, 250 means 2.5" inner diameter and the 0450/0350 is spring rate in lbs/in, so 6.2kg/mm rear and 8kg/mm front. Anyway, point is, with the circlip groove/threaded sleeve, adjustable platform and that style of springs, you can order anything you want from eibach and end up with exactly the rate and height you are after.

Yeah if the wear is good I wouldn't change the rear camber, unless I was chasing grip out of corners (but it sounds like your problem is lag not lack of grip)

BTW love the look of the car too!

That is pretty weird to have a spongey clutch, I've never had an issue with overheated clutch fluid, it just doesn't have the heat coming into it like brakes do. I do run a direct line from clutch master to slave rather than via that intricate factory damper. Suggest you change to a direct line if you aren't and of course it will be bled at same time. For the corner exit, do you have the option to run a shorter diff ratio (obviously need to consider likely highest speed in top gear at the tracks you go to). And of course if you are having a rear traction problem getting on it earlier, a little less rear camber and a good diff can help

sorry it's -1 outside and dark Plus it's a gtr not gtst and motorsport not street use. I don't know what rate the nismo stuff was, but I am willing to back their engineering skills and knowledge over mine

eibach make anything you need for springs, I run bilsteins with circlip grooves which hold the threaded sleeve which hold adjustable platforms. Then I just run eibach springs in the right rate. what is your use, street or some sort of motorsport? and I see you aren't in Oz, but it might have helped to say where you actually are (or just fill in your profile location)