Duncan

Not much of an update, other than to say I remade both water lines in 200 series, ended up using the speedflow shielding again too because that's what I could get quickly. The routing is still difficult for the feed at the top of the turbo due to needing to come pretty much straight out of the core to clear the turbo housings, but then head about 120o to go around the rear of the motor. Braided doesn't really bend that well so I'm still using a 45 at the turbo but pointed down a little as well as rearward to give maximum clearance in the space. I noticed aeroflow to a 25mm -6 extension so I'll add one of those when I get the chance. Also interesting to note that 200 series -6 is much smaller outer diameter than 100 series -6 which was nice. And I've added a turbo beanine too, hopefully all that will do it. It's hard to see in the pic, but previously the heat sleeve was touching the turbo housing, now it clears it by about 20mm and the beanie is on too. BTW working on the car reminded me how well designed factory stuff is. On the stagea with the highmount, everything fits, but there are lots of vacant spaces that are not accessible (perfect to drop things into, never to be retrieved) and fittings that are super hard to get a tool onto. Packaging on the GTR factory twins, for example, is much easier to work on.

While everything was apart I noticed the coilpack loom was in pretty bad condition with a couple of broken connectors, so she got a new one of those as well before she lets me down one rainy night

get it nice and warm with a blow torch (no idea what a heat gun can do, but not enough), the get a pry bar behind it and shock it loose. If you need to get a grip on the bush a big pair of vice grips would help

too late to remember to paste the link in?

Nissan used AFMs rather than MAP sensors for a reason, it wasn't an accident. They might cause intake restrictions at very high power but they are excellent for things like cold start, atmospheric pressure adjustment etc. Anyway, if you want the cheapest aftermarket ECU so you can tune it, a power fc is about 30-50% the cost of a haltech (500-800$), and the base map is usable without a tune in the short term.

No, I'm pretty sure the US entering the global market for these cars is what changed things here. The timing aligns exactly with the last 3 years. It used to be a car like this would be 2-5k AUD , some skid kid would buy it, bang it into a telegraph pole in an industrial area on saturday night, then buy another one and transfer any useful parts over. Since there is no more supply of them out of Japan at any price (because you guys have buy them all), the replacement is no longer possible. Then, put fear of missing out on top of that and here we are, prices where most enthusiasts can't possibly buy them (kind of like houses in Australia too)

umm yes, me too....unigroup welded up the stainless one on the stagea about 4 times before the convinced me to go with a 6boob manifold instead. And....since we've strayed into pendatry.....aren't steam pipe bends cast?

The real factor you should consider is that stainless manifolds almost always crack due to heat cycling. Cast ones deal with the temperature changes much better......there is a reason factory manifolds are cast

no probs, manual is on it's way to you

You can't get less boost than the spring pressure on the turbo's wastegate. Most replacement turbos come with 0.8 or 1 bar. You can stay off full boost by not keeping your foot at 100% as it comes on.

I agree, it could be OK. They only flow a little more air than standard, especially if boost is low and those early ECUs allowed a lot more leeway for small changes than later r series. Most likely it will just blow black smoke (running rich, ECU adding too much fuel) as it comes onto boost. However, much worse would be if it does not add enough fuel for the extra air, in this case it will ping (sounds like rocks rattling in a tin), this can kill your engine very quickly

If the organisers offer any refunds I'll eat a race tyre with a knife and fork.

No results yet, just loaded the base map (which I expect is the same as the stock map, copied 5 times into the 5 slots). Uprev did not previously support it but the ECU is the same series as pretty much everything Nissan since about 2005 so it can be reflashed by them, they just needed the factory ROM sent across to get it going. I may well live to regret stuffing with this, but I'm pretty sure the petrol motor is just a petrol motor.

Hey Ben I heard you added an inspection hole for the gearbox internals, any idea what actually happened? Shame about the engine and having no time to shake the new car down, it looked Ok in that Georgetown vid. Targa seem to think they will be running next year, I guess a lot may depend on what actually happened.

So it got 400kw for it's 400,000klm birthday but its 450,000klm was less exciting. Kel brought it home from a service billowing clouds of steam (happily not on fire....). The water line to the turbo failed by getting too hot, melting out of the fitting at the turbo end. It was 100 series hose with a fire sleeve but ran close enough the sleeving touched the zorst housing (on disassembly the water return was touching a manifold runner too). So, I've changed the turbo water lines across to 200 series with the same fire sleeve, and also re-routed it a little further away (not much that can be done with AN fittings at the turbo core). Hope this will last better. While I was there I decided to address the weep it has had from the zorst cam cover at the rear for years (looks like the original was reused in the rebuild). It now has all new cam cover seals, half moons and a set of those rubbers on the cam cover bolts....no signs of leaks since (other than the bloody rear main which has also leaked since the rebuild....will get to that one day when I can get on a hoist somewhere) Old seals at top, new below, spot the difference.... Before After. I love how the turbo beanie even has our race team's name on it, shame they spelled Raceworx wrong

It's been a while since I updated this, but that is mostly because it's been doing exactly what it should with no issues. The car is a lot firmer than the Cima but still great on long drives, and fuel is 7.something average. I've finally got the ECU tunable. It was not on the supported ROM list for Uprev, but after a bit of a backlog and some back and forward it is now supported, and I bought a second license so I can get it tuned. It barely ran when I first reflashed it which had me pretty concerned, but after disconnecting the battery for a bit and doing the throttle relearning it has come up perfect. I also had a hybrid warning but that cleared after a couple of drives. Next up when time allows, zorst and pods then that tune.. Probably won't make it faster or more fuel efficient, but it will sound better. There is really nothing off the shelf for these as the intake is quite different to the v37 skyline in front of the airboxes, and apparently no-one in japan buys a hybrid and puts a zorst on it. I am hoping generic VQ35HR headers do fit though, there is a bit of space down there.

great way to show it, thanks for taking the time

Good on the guys at Samsonas for being honest about living with a box like that. Keep in mind they would be assuming plenty of race, not street use in that estimate. As the guys said above, I'd change the oil annually and look for sparkles. I'd take it out for a rebuild only if I couldn't regularly get a gear.

sorry mate. fixed that a while back. there is still a list though

I can't take it any more. Autoreplace for retard has been removed. No idea why it was ever there.

I'd give Just Jap a bell, they will have options in stock Actually, just did a search, 18 options from different brands and price points, should get you started

Umm, Fuga does all those things, 230kw vq35 + 50kw electric motor it goes well too

Good choice, powercoating looks good and is way better for durability than paint. I've been running PC cam covers for about 10 years on the race car and they still look good

FYI you can't change from factory injectors without a tunable ECU.