Duncan

Sorry they are physically long gone in my car, but using the excellent wiring scans GTSBoy did it looks like one side connects to the AC relay + trigger, and the other side to ECU pin 9 (AC relay). It connects for the AC pressure switch well done if you've got this far without referring to the wiring diagrams or service manual

Thanks for the pic, I assume that was from inside, not underneath as the flaps seem to move outwards? I think I'm just going to sika some flyscreen in BTW f**k you volkwagen for naming one of your shitboxes R32. It makes googling skyline parts much harder. As if anyone ever cared enough about a Golf to try and repair it, you just throw it away and buy a new one.

Like I said, I'm not a head guy, but there are separate shims under the buckets that you switch out for the desired clearance (assuming you have an endless collection of different sized ones handy). You've had 2 of the buckets out, just have a look underneath them, the shims generally stick to the bucket EN-20 and EN-21 of the GTR service manual show specs and process for RB26, sorry I don't know specs for the 25 NEO

Well, the workshop manual (about 1,000 pages in japanese) is available, PM me your email if you'd like a copy Having said that, I'd start by pulling the dash out, grabbing the dash plugs and seeing if there is a pin that goes 12v when parkers or headlights are on only. That would confirm the issue is in the dash (either dash trace or the globes). If you can't find any such pin find an interior globes that goes on and off with the parkers, eg the key or glovebox illumination, and check the wire colour; whatever it is is almost certain to be the same colour at the dash. If you don't have 12v at that colour wire at the dash connectors, just run a wire that does have the 12v to the dash plug wire that doesn't and see if you get lights

Hi mate, confirming we have the reports and will get to them as soon as one of the (volunteer) admins gets a chance

Yeah a bit like the discussion we had the other day about the boot release, there are probably other nissans from same age with similar or same system, I just don't know what is normally there (it can't be that open from factory), and even boring 90s nissans are getting hard to find now I think I'll go some ally flyscreen mesh for now, sika-ed into the frame and see how it lasts. I guess there is a massive volume of air to move when both windows are down moving at speed.

well, hello Wakie! You really should think about getting that going again, stop wasting your life with open top cars

Wow that is a big freshen up, hope you get to enjoy it for many years after that. A couple of things. If you aren't happy with the valve clearances you need to get that sorted. Both too tight and too loose are a problem and going to cause damage. I've only ever had a machine show do it for me so I don't have any useful advice there other than I've heard of people using compressed air in a spark plug hole to hold the valves closed while changing springs with the head on Secondly, as everything has been apart, more than likely there is just something wrong on re-assembly. I'd be re-checking all the connectors are well seated and the earths in particular are good, it sounds like you have a misfire from idle. coil pack and coil pack looms are a common failure Also, since the plugs are white and it runs OK once you get a few revs on board it may be running very lean at idle, is the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator attached and not leaking? And, have you changed the fuel filter and/or the pump? Finally, I believe Nissan Data Scan is the go to for monitoring the standard ECU

If you mean the oil seals inside the turbo, they won't cause a boost leak, they will only cause an oil leak (generally to the exhaust, leading to massive oil burning smoke from the exhaust). Other than that, these cars are 30 years old and it has probably done 100,000klm more than the odometer says, and has probably been driven hard at times. If I had just picked up a GTR I would - Change all fluids (engine oil, gearbox oil, front and rear diffs, xfer case, attessa actuator, coolant, power steering) - Change all coolant lines (there are kits from places like justjap that include all hoses in silicone, you can go black if you like factory look) - Change all vacuum lines (this is most likely issue if you do have a boost leak). There are the regular small vacuum lines plus a few larger ones like brake/clutch booster and to and from AAC/IAC etc - Change the timing belt, and do the water pump, timing belt bearings and bearing idler stud and bolts at the same time - Put in a new coil pack loom, coil packs and spark plugs - Change the fuel filter and put in a new fuel pump - Check for loose or broken studs and if necessary change studs and gaskets for the exhaust manifold to head, manifold to turbo and turbo to dump pipe. The only problem with that list is you would need to get into all sorts of inconvenient places in the engine bay which can be really tricky unless you are used to it, most likely the job would take many days work and cost lots of skinned knuckles

Your issue is the voltage the ECU gets, not necessarily what the battery is putting out. Datascan can tell you if the voltage at the ECU is OK with IGN on, and while cranking, it needs to stay 10+ for the car to start. Good to see you checked the relays, that means next step is to check the voltage and earth at the car side of the relay wiring. If you are not getting proper volts there, the ECU won't either.

hmmm...I'd still do the leakdown test that he mentioned first, some head issue is suspicious but better to rule out other issues. And cams should always go with the head for any work with solid lifters, they can set everything in the shop

Nah all good, everything just seems really slow atm and I'm pretty sure that is because i am not excited about dealing with bodywork stuff. eg there is a bunch of surface rust from sitting in the weather with no rear end on the car for months that I ran some rust converter over yesterday and have decided to rattle can spray the boot to cover any small exposed points this is the mouse access device, you can see they opened up 2 of the barriers to make access convenient for them and the whole family Any suggestions on sealing it up (but still allowing airflow) appreciated. It is a difficult shape with sides 30-50mm deep then the plastic mesh, and the whole thing seems to be sikaflexed to the car from factory and in a tight corner of the guard, so removing/cleaning/replacing/resealing would be a mission

And also, did the problem only start after the cam was removed or was there an issue (same or different) previously

Given how many variables there are in compression tests (the gauge, the seal, battery voltage, was the throttle wide open, how long did you crank etc etc), and also that engines almost never fail evenly (even when it is just ring wear), the important thing in a compression test is reasonably even results, which you have. Time for skids.

Sorry there doesn't seem to be a quick solution. If you are not confident chasing the wiring I suggest an auto electrician. Buying a new loom might help but might not as there are multiple looms in the car and you don't currently know which one is the issue. BTW you first unit probably still works fine since it blew the fuse, not the unit itself, so that is the good news

Check the coil pack loom is plugged into the ignitor or car loom correctly, and that there are no earths missing, assuming that is the only electrical thing you touched

Seems like a weird failure. How is the turbo attached the the exhaust, and how is well supported is the front of the exhaust/ do you have a flex section in the front or dump section? I'd be looking for either a hit on the exhaust being absorbed by the turbo, or the exhaust just putting too much weight on it

Unfortunately while I was under there, I noticed quite a few spots of surface rust that I really should deal with while everything is apart. And (sorry no pic today), I also had a good look at the vent in the lower rear quarter panel. I'm not sure what is meant to be there but all I have now is a plastic frame with holes about 50mm square, giving easy access to dirt and crap, as well (apparently) as the critters that live in the shed. Whatever is meant to go there is NLA, so I've got my eye on some small flyscreen mesh to stop big chunks and cold critters looking for a home inside the car.

Final progress for today. While waiting in stage at the last rally (before the "incident"...) we noticed a small oil leak from below the right rear quarter panel. Of course, there is nothing around there that can leak, apart from the ATTESSA reservoir. Sure enough, one of the 30 year old hoses had cracked under those nasty 80s hose clamps. In good news, the main hose was still available and the return is under Nismo heritage for only a billion dollars. For reference part numbers are 41738-05U10 for the main hose and 41728-RHR21 for the gold plated nismo heritage one. Given so much was already out of the car and the boot needed a good clean, I undid the lines under the car and fed hard hard lines out through the boot floor and removed the lines with the reservoir. It was strangely dirty in there which leads to the next thing... Anyway, new lines with modern hose clamps, ready to go back in after giving the boot a good clean (and sourcing a bunch of different sized rubber grommets to seal it after the shop threw them away)

Next onto that boot/fuel pull problem. This was dead easy in the race car, on the off chance that you might have an interior in your car there is a lot more to remove. The r34 cable has the same boot fitting end (yes, the brand new from the bag part is the rusty one...). The R32 one was about 50mm longer between the fuel door and booth pull than the R34 one Same setup for the fuel pull in the middle, with the important difference that the thread is cast, not plastic And the cabin end is also identical. The R32 one was about 100mm longer Despite the length difference, the R34 one is direct fit, all in and working with no problem (I note Just Jap are suddenly out of stock, so maybe I should have bought a spare before BK read that post last week....) For reference the part I used was 84650-AA100, and Nengun still have them listed for $104 + shipping

Thanks Dan for jinxing me 😛. Anyway, I did a little more today... There are a million little jobs to do so just chipping away at them. The bonnet pins had zinc hardware and the car spent some time outside at the smash repair resulting in this New mounts in black, plus some 316 stainless hardware (man M3 is fussy to work with, and who has a 5.5mm spanner?), hopefully this lasts longer

Sorry, 2 things to add. Most likely the issue is something that turns on from the unit, not something that is always on. If it was always on like the earth or power circuits, it would blow as soon as you plug it in or turn the key on. I think you said it blew when you were driving so you saw it working at some stage after you started the car, but later it wasn't. If you can work out what changed between it working and not that is your first place to check, eg did you change the fan level. Of course it is climate control so fan speed can change based on sensor inputs so it may not be obvious. The other is, the most likely wiring issue in an old car is that a wire has rubbed through somewhere and is shorting to earth. Maybe all the time, maybe intermittent eg going around a corner or braking. So most likely you have earth somewhere that expects +, and you might be able to find it by seeing damaged wiring, depending how much of the car is apart.

Oh dear, that is not going to work very well. So that diagram you posted earlier looks excellent, I'd go through each pin on the car side of the control until and make sure it is what the diagram days. Specifically, first check the earths 8, 23, 32 and I think 16 all have good continuity to a known good earth in the car. If any of them have 12v when compared to an earth you have a short in the wiring there Then check the power circuit - 1, 2, 3 should have 12v with key off (BAT), IGN and ACC respectively. Beyond that, any pin with 12v with the IGN on is a suspect to check (because the control unit is getting + where it should have -, or vice versa) Then check every other pin, this is trickier but most likely where the issue is. The diagram isn't necessarily obvious, but just keep in mind everything electric needs power and earth to operate (eg blower motor + must be pin 1 because it comes from ACC fuse 4, so pin 2 must be earth, which means the HI relay connects pin 3 to 5 (earth) and therefore AC control pin 17 should be earth when fan control is on high (and control unit pin 5 which goes to HI relay 1 is an earth signal from the unit to the relay). In the case of switches like the intake door actuator it could be either + or - switched (a bit hard to tell unless you know if ECU pin 9 is + or -), and sensors are the same, they will either be + or - in, and a resistance to the input to send a signal (generally negative/earth input)

The Part Supersession chain in FAST says: 28525-05U17 goes to 28525-05U12 and 28525-05U16 goes to 28525-05U11 and 28525-05U12 So, the parts are interchangeable (there might be a different in the colour of the globes or texture but they should work OK). Next, I think you should get a different mechanic, or take this issue to an auto electrician. A "12v electrical system" runs at 13.x volts when the alternator is turning. Finally, what is the actual issue? Did a first and then replacement AC control unit stop working? How did you notice them fail? Have you got a pic of the failure?

lol, it's not always me!