Duncan

Like I said, I've not seen published max wheel loads, and most V35 information is out of Japan so Japanese only. Perhaps a path is to look into any Infiniti G35 information from the US.

OK great news. In that case the 32 style pump has 2 pressure stages and therefore 2 pressure outlets as well as the low pressure in from the reservoir. When HICAS is removed it could either be by removing the second stage of the pump and plugging it up, or retaining the second stage to feed something like a PS cooler. You need to work out if you are using both stages before you can decide if you need a 32 or 33/34 pump. Rebuilding the PS pump with a new bearing is pretty straightforward and likely to be cheaper than replacing the pump, particularly as you may only need to replace the bearing if you are sure the pump itself is not leaking.

Right, so you need to find and fix the oil leak as well in that case. I can't be sure from the video, but it looks like you still have 2 lines going to the PS pump, so you need a 32 style one nor 33 or later. A pic of the top rear of the pump would confirm; you can have hicas removed but still have both stages in place depending how it was done. BTW sounds like you should get a mechanic to fix this if you are not confident with everything required

Welcome to SAU, and take good care of those classics! (I think you should drive the wagon and part the sedan personally, but each to their own)

What on earth are you putting them on? Anyway, I've never seen load rating for wheels. They will be fine (unless they break, which they won't)

sorry, I should add that rebuilding them is pretty simple if you can source the seal kits. The bearing (the bit that failed) will have the number written on it, it's a generic part.

Do you know why it died? generally either low oil or belt too tight, best to know so the replacement doesn't go the same way. Looks likely that the rear stage is still connected so RB25 one won't do. Where are you (location on your profile would help)? I'm pretty sure I have a gtst spare because a second handy I picked up was labelled R32, but the rb26 and rb20 pumps are not mounted the same.

uh-oh, you forgot to put oil in it.

Exactly. To me relianble doesn't mean "able to last through warranty", it means usable for a reasonable period after that too. We are very spoiled by the (heavily loss making) nissan engineers from the 90s

Just FYI, the original HKS cam gears had issues with the aluminium being soft, leading to the bolts slipping and timing changing (potentially engine lunching as a result)....so careful what you wish for!

The VCT oil feed returns via the head, so it is effectively a head oil supply as well, remembering the purpose of the table is to prevent high flow oil pumps filling the head (and emptying the sump). You will need an oil supply for the VCT, I'm not familiar with the various options

Anyway...I've not seen/heard that before but something is pretty unhappy there. Have you changed the oil lately, and were there any metallic flakes? Also, if you push the clutch in with someone watching under the bonnet, does the harmonic balancer move back and forward at all?

Holy shit you've lost your steering wheel!

Thanks for closing the loop, that will help the next person

I get nissan are choosing not to help, or don't know they can, but the hardware/software local dealers have do have this capability. Like Greg I have a consult III clone which can connect to my fuga and other weird imports including my Cima, Titan etc OK.

Interesting, and what if you swap the TB, does the problem follow the TB or stay with the wiring? Nissan are just choosing not to help (or don't know their own software). The software is the same across all models including JDM, perhaps consider another dealer if possible.

fking bargain compared to a R34 GTR. fking expensive for a car you can't drive

I believe the alternative is to do it via a consult, so you may have to try nissan, they are incorrect if they think they can't do it, the just need to choose DOM for Japanese Domestic on the Consult. The key procedure is painful to get right... One other option, does it idle OK if you unplug the AFMs? I had an AFM die which sent the ECU to limp mode, which allows it to run fine at idle (but not rev)

The good people at Uprev have the re-learning procedure here: https://uprev.com/documentation/Resets-for-Nissan-Infiniti-Functions.pdf Super fiddly, but my car would barely run after a reflash until I got this right and is now perfect. Note, disconnecting the battery for a minute or 2 is worth trying first

You need to start with the 4wd chassis to avoid about 90% of the hard work; the front suspension is different in the 2wd models

No wonder the engine bay solenoids were missing, someone probably wanted to change the oil filter at some stage. Was there any flexible lines connected to that solenoid where the banjos are?

(apologies in advance, pretty sure this pic predates camera phones) Demonstration that a wing can't be too large on an R33 GTST....2Fast2Furious drive-in SAU night

well, you'll be able to tell immediately if it is not sorted because you will have 12v and lower when the car is running. If it is 13.8ish all is well. One option is to add a resistor instead of a battery charge globe which can be hidden behind the dash, but you lose the warning it your alternator isn't working with that solution.

Looks awesome. How to you excite the alternator?

Malcolm had a super tidy GTST with some Nismo parts, cleanest skyline I've ever seen.