Duncan

Oh dear, that is not going to work very well. So that diagram you posted earlier looks excellent, I'd go through each pin on the car side of the control until and make sure it is what the diagram days. Specifically, first check the earths 8, 23, 32 and I think 16 all have good continuity to a known good earth in the car. If any of them have 12v when compared to an earth you have a short in the wiring there Then check the power circuit - 1, 2, 3 should have 12v with key off (BAT), IGN and ACC respectively. Beyond that, any pin with 12v with the IGN on is a suspect to check (because the control unit is getting + where it should have -, or vice versa) Then check every other pin, this is trickier but most likely where the issue is. The diagram isn't necessarily obvious, but just keep in mind everything electric needs power and earth to operate (eg blower motor + must be pin 1 because it comes from ACC fuse 4, so pin 2 must be earth, which means the HI relay connects pin 3 to 5 (earth) and therefore AC control pin 17 should be earth when fan control is on high (and control unit pin 5 which goes to HI relay 1 is an earth signal from the unit to the relay). In the case of switches like the intake door actuator it could be either + or - switched (a bit hard to tell unless you know if ECU pin 9 is + or -), and sensors are the same, they will either be + or - in, and a resistance to the input to send a signal (generally negative/earth input)

The Part Supersession chain in FAST says: 28525-05U17 goes to 28525-05U12 and 28525-05U16 goes to 28525-05U11 and 28525-05U12 So, the parts are interchangeable (there might be a different in the colour of the globes or texture but they should work OK). Next, I think you should get a different mechanic, or take this issue to an auto electrician. A "12v electrical system" runs at 13.x volts when the alternator is turning. Finally, what is the actual issue? Did a first and then replacement AC control unit stop working? How did you notice them fail? Have you got a pic of the failure?

lol, it's not always me!

You should consider buying new harness and new splitfires unless budget is critical. Both items age poorly, so anything you buy secondhand will have no to short working life

Agreed, if it is 10v at the ECU while sitting, it will drop miles when cranking. What voltage at across the battery terminals, does it match the ECU or is it a healthy 12.x?

No

By car side, I mean with the relays out, probe the sockets where the relay pins go and check their continuity (to ECU power, ECU ECCS trigger) or voltage (12v in and 12v trigger). This will confirm all of the wiring on the car side is OK (or not) When you connected with datascan, were you able to start the car? Can you display the voltage datascan sees? The knock sensor might be worth looking at one day but won't prevent your car starting

I am 99% sure you have a voltage supply problem (failing relay or damaged wiring) preventing the ECU turning on. My advice is: 1. Swap the 2 green relays and see if the lights (and ECU) turn on immediately with the key. If so, one of the relays is bad 2. Test both green relays on the bench like I said in post 13 June. At this point you can be confident the relays are not the problem 3. Test the car side of the relays as I said in same post. If there is a problem here (less likely than 1/2 but not impossible), the you can work out which part of the wiring has an issue as those wires only got to the ECU or the fuseable link you checked earlier 4. If the relays and wiring are good most likely you have an internal issue in the ECU and need it repaired (specialist), replaced with a stock one (hard to find because your model is a donor for nistune) or replaced aftermarket. I am not a datascan user, but I expect you will find you can't connect to the ECU, because it is not turned on, because it has a voltage supply issues

Possibly they are factory, cross drilled rotors are not super common in the after market as they tend to crack from the drilled holes. They are definitely not local DBA rotors as they have a different vane design. In any case, the rotor is not important, you need new rotors that match the calliper. Whether they are base model GTR or Vspec, there is a listing at DBA for them, and you can use that to buy a local option from whatever brand.

Yeah I agree, it's nice to read how things really happen to most people who DIY

Just FYI if you want to manage costs, you can run the manual on the stock auto ECU, I did for a while until I got annoyed at the inability to up the boost without annoying the standard engine. If you are determined to change the ECU, I'd go aftermarket, link or haltech to save the stuffing around And any attessa controller will work, the cheap ones do 99% of what the expensive ones do. Just remember not to use RWD only mode as it is no good for the xfer case clutches

how good is 20 years of skyline You could start with finding the model code of the gearbox (unless someone here knows to post it up), then just look for a second hand one; most likely if you can find one it will be the cheapest way to get back on the road. I think a manual conversion is likely to be surprisingly expensive to get parts, so not worth going that way unless you really wanted a manual. 3rd option, consider selling it if you just want a car. It is probably worth a bazillion dollars (or at least a few thousand)

Well, it is period, so no surprises

On that....I believe there have been a number of threads on here detailing the issues with those adapters not fitting and working correctly, it is worth a search.

Well, welcome back. Unfortunately I don't have, and don't know where to get, the M35 manual, I only have the C34 one.

FWIW I've got a 34 GTT console in my manual swapped stagea, it is a perfect fit and good trim match

Mantic are totally legit, they are a performance sub brand of one of the big Australian manufacturers (clutch industries perhaps? I can't remember). I've also found them good for questions if you have any Why pay GTR tax if you don't need to?

Yes, but the weird thing is, a standard 33 gtst runs fine with that fuse blown, while at least some aftermarket ECUs need it (it was actually absent from factory in S2 which is even weirder.) I've never traced the wiring for it though

Yep, you need a new seal

so, got the R34 cable from Just Jap today (yes, 4 days to a rural location, still waiting for the Amayama order I paid for early April...) I haven't had a chance to check length or fittings yet, and may not this weekend, but I note the r34 cable moved to a metal instead of plastic, fuel door thread.

https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/locate?c=Nissan

Nothing is quick these days, is it. Are you setting the diff backlash or do you need to send it out again?

top of my head, approx m4x 6mm. You can confirm the thread by threading any m4 bolt in there. BTW don't snap one off when you assemble the engine, wish the engine builder had known that back in the day.

Yep I'll check the length is same or longer and try and swap it over as plan A, because that gets me sorted and means I have a spare (borken) 32 one to look at alternatives over time...will report back

That explains a lot, I had been wondering if you were actually an AI, its getting so hard to tell these days