Duncan

Well, if the MAP is disconnected from the intake, the ECU will think it is getting exactly atmospheric pressure....no vacuum with open throttle off boost and no extra air on boost. so yeah, it can probably idle and run OK at light throttle/low revs. But beyond that if you are pulling say 15psi vacuum (I know that is not valid BTW) at 2000 rpm with throttle wide open it will be running mega rich and might foul plugs, missfire or stall because it is getting way less air than it thinks. Conversely, if you manage to get it onto boost somehow it will be getting way more air than it knows and this is a big problem, like GTSBoy said you could ping it to death. BTW, air flow meter cars are the same to some extent. An unplugged AFM will probably allow a car to start and idle but anything more than than very light throttle it will have too much air compared to ECU expectation and stall

Didn't they remove him in a violin case (#yesitreallyhappened) Anyway, those cars look nothing alike, one is white and one is silver. It is nissan who keep copying camrys. 1990s camry wagon mid 2010s camry hybrid sedan

I don't want to take away from the recommendation that you start with a suitable fuel pump, but I will add that there have been plenty of cars that have lost hundreds of horsepower between the japanese seller's dyno chart and what happens the first time you run it on a dyno yourself.....dodgy middle people are not limited to a single country. As stated earlier, japanese workshops naturally led the way in tuning these cars in the 90s and early naughties but that really has changed since. Messing with a small pump but pushing up base fuel pressure is a dangerous way to tune a car compared to just fitting a correctly sized pump and tuning to standard pressure. In particular it affects injector spray pattern and increases risk of a lean out when you are pushing the whole system right to it's limits. I'm not aware of complete coverage of the fuel system; B6 in the R32 GTR manual is pretty brief and doesn't cover the venting at all. There is information on the main hoses in and out though.

I just re-read the first post, it is a NEO so nistune may well be an option (noting that taking the existing ECU out and sending it to be modified might not be convenient compared to a bolt in replacement like PFC)

Spain is very fortunate then I'm not a nistune specialist, but I'm pretty sure rb25det ECU is not supported. PowerFC is cheap, easy to tune and suitable

you didn't engage the pull fork correctly after the gearbox was reattached to the engine. pull gearboxes suck

Unfortunately, an rb25 in a GQ is never going to be a vw polo, an m3 or some other fuel efficient, error light showing shitbox. Couple of things - the ECU will try and run closed loop based on your o2 sensor in most idle and light throttle conditions. That screenshot shows you are running rich (although, we can't tell from one point if it moves around). Basically, your narrow band o2 manages most fuel economy and should rapidly fluctuate above and below 14.7 - a standard ECU with a bigger turbo will go super rich with mid to full throttle first up, put in a working 02 sensor (can be a standard narrowband, or wire the narrowband output of your wideband to the ECU), and switch to a PowerFC, and get a quick tidy up tune. That will get you 95% as good as you ever will with a little 80s turbo engine in a heavy 4wd at minimal cost. Nistune could also work if you can find a suitable donor ECU. BTW, it could be much worse, I have a td42 in my gu and it both makes no power AND uses way too much fuel. On the bright side it will keep running well into the apocalypse

assuming it is actually your car, rather than you are just looking for tips to steal it.. .....I'd always suggest having a spare in a safe place if you have an immobiliser in a car

who made the undertray? obviously the main shape is pretty simple but looks like it has a large 90 bend too which is not so easy to do neatly in the shed

It's way off topic by now, but I have to agree the quality of engineering went way down hill. The level of additional power you can make without breaking things and the general reliability under heavy use like racing of the standard parts in R chassis is very unusual. But it did have to change, Nissan was loosing money on every car they made which is never going to last

Yep r34 console is a direct bolt in fit Only exception is I had to move the G sensor due to a different cupholder location in the console. It is still under there but behind the handbrake now

Hope it was a bargain if you bought it smoking. BTW confirmed, nissan grade rb pistons and choose the closest fit for the bore. Certainly not blueprinting but it is at least better than always just using the same size. the RB26 grades are listed on EN101 of the workshop manual (they had grades for big end and main bearings too. Of course none of that matters now you are rebuilding it, just get it measured to confirm what size pistons you need (standard or oversize) BTW you need to check the bearings and rod bolts too, detonation is hard on the whole rotating assembly. Your engine shop should be able to confirm

Great choice :thumbsup:, glad it is sorted

Couple of major areas of potential difference The GTR rear guards are much wider and are welded in, so you'd need to be ready to replace the rear guards. Depending on how everything else pays out that might be worthwhile to you but it is a big job. Front guards, headlights etc will be needed from the GTR If the GTS25 is rwd not 4wd (I assume its rwd as you didn't say GTS4), there are a heap of differences in the front around the strut towers, suspension mounting, subframe mounting. Again, not impossible, it has been done, but its unlikely to be economic Much less minor, there are differences in the floor pan around the drivers seat if it is an R34 GT series. And of course, heaps of interior and mechanical stuff would be different, and it may not just bolt it. Finally, there might be a consideration around ability to register the GTS25 afterwards, and the loss in value that the VIN# will not be a GTR one. You didn't say much about where you are or what the car is worth to you, but on purely $$ terms finding a GTR shell would be the most economical fix

I should add, you probably need to earth the green wire (9) from the head unit too (you can use the same place as the camera) if you want to be able to have video while the handbrake is off.

OK, per the head unit manual You need to connect the "violet/white" wire to a reverse signal in the car. You haven't mentioned how you connected the rest of the head unit to the car (or maybe someone else did that already), but I can see ISO connectors in the background of some of your pics so maybe you have a car to ISO harness and a ISO to pioneer harness. ISO connectors cover the speakers and a few power supply items, but they don't carry a reverse signal from the car. You can see there is no reverse signal in those plugs from the car to the head unit, so your head unit does not know when the car is in reverse, so it can't turn the camera on. So, the head unit will not switch to reverse camera automatically until you find a reverse 12V inside the car, and connect it to that purple wire. As I said earlier the easiest place to find that is at the tail lights (but then you need to run another wire all the way to the head unit) or maybe at the dash if you have a reverse indicator light or maybe a signal to a reverse beeper. I think you will have trouble finding that unless someone has specific advice. Then, this is the instructions for the reverse camera from the head unit manual: You can see that this generic instruction do not show you how to wire the ground and red (12v) that come with your camera. So, to get this to work you need to earth the black (per your picture) and supply ACC or IGN 12v to the red wire. Per the ISO wiring picture above, A7 is 12v switched (probably ACC), so you need to splice the red from your camera into the wire at that pin. But, I think you need to either give this to a professional, or get a crimper set and spend some youtube time. If you don't make the connections securely you can get failure over time including burning your car to the ground.

Well, you are right, the information in the manual is junk. I think it is saying the camera wiring has 3 parts - the yellow video output, a red 12v+ wire and a black earth wire, is that correct? For testing, you can just hold the stripped end of the black wire against that steel dash frame. If the purple wire only comes from the head unit, it is probably reverse camera 12v+. They would do this because that lets you either turn the camera on manually (through some button in the head unit) or automatically (when you put the car in reverse). If it works this way there would only be 1 power wire to the camera from the head unit. For the automatic part to work, the head unit needs to know when the car is in reverse. As that might not be part of the camera, you need to check if the head unit wiring has a reverse signal input. Do you have a wiring diagram for the head unit? What is the model code of the head unit and camera?

hmm on third thoughts, that wiring diagram really might help Is the red wire only connected to your reverse camera's wire, and is the purple wire only from your head unit? Is there any connection at the camera end of the reverse camera? You will need to find a reverse signal from the car. That is often at the reverse camera where you can tap into the reverse light. Alternatively if your dash has a reverse signal (eg auto dash) you can find and tap into that. Otherwise you have to find it in the wiring loom somewhere which may not be easy

OK....I guess maybe you haven't done much wiring before. Grab a cheap set like this: https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/sca-sca-crimping-tool-kit---151-pieces/562987.html#q=crimp&lang=en_AU&start=2 Use one with an eyelet end on the ground wire, and either drill a self tapping screw into the steel dash support to hold it or as GTSBoy said, undo the nut that is holding the plastic part on and slip the eyelet under that, it will be held tight like a washer. Soldering wire to something big and heavy like the dash support is unlikely to work long (if at all). That might be your only problem While you are at your preferred auto parts shop buying the crimp set, buy a cheap multimeter like this: https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/sca-sca-multimeter-digital---automotive/4405.html#q=multimeter&lang=en_AU&start=1 Turn it to 12v DC mode, put the black probe on your earth and the red probe on the reverse signal wire from the car, you should have 0v. Put the car in reverse with ignition on and you should have 12v. If you don't, your reverse signal is not OK (either the earth or the reverse signal itself)

I just had some trouble with this myself with a different unit. Couple of questions What is the wiring meant to be; is there a diagram you can post? What is the problem, does the head unit not switch to reverse when you put it in reverse? What were you trying to do with the red and purple wires? Your ground will develop surface rust pretty quickly but it won't stop it working. You will need to mount your ground properly but I assume you are still testing for now. Simply run a self tapper into that steel dashboard support and put an eyelet to suit on the ground

Hope you can get it sorted and keep one of these alive, but I don't think that is going to be cheap to fix

Awesome work mate, that track is always fun even when it is giving you grief Hopefully I'll see you there next year

There is a big difference between the work required for 250 and 400 kw (so, 300-350 kind of falls between those levels). At 250 you just need a bigger turbo in the standard location, injectors to suit (probably safe to change fuel pump too), ECU with tune, bigger air flow meter, intercooler and exhaust. Likely price $5-10k At 400kw you really need to change everything including forged internals, cams, radiator, exhaust manifold, potentially inlet manifold too. Probably MAP sensor conversion. Likely price $10-20k. Lots of people (but not everyone) break gearboxes at this level which is a whole other $10-20k rabbit hole. So, for most people, budget is the best place to start, not a power target. If you have the open budget and want to shoot for 300-350, pick a turbo that hits that range, exhaust manifold to suit, any ECU that your tuner is comfortable with, intercooler and piping, dump/front/catback exhaust, injectors (bigger than you need), MAP sensor, apply $20k and see how you go. Once you have all that in place, higher power levels are just a turbo swap and tune away.

Realistically, you can make about 5-10% difference in power by spending $5-20k on it. You almost certainly won't notice the difference.

Yeah hard to be certain without having checked the configuration but it sounds exactly like the intake air temperature sensor is unplugged, which is an issue if air is based on a MAP sensor not the air flow meters....I would stay off boost if you don't know how it is set up as it is potentially an engine killer