Duncan

I had the carpet out of the footwell in the stagea yesterday, some aftermarket wires ran across the passenger floor and they had melted into the sound deadener/tar over the years....

"well, there's your problem"! pretty sure that counts as a major boost leak. You need to stay off boost until it is fixed, because your turbos will be making eleventy boost at the turbos

My understanding is R34 GTT is the only r chassis where the seats don't interchange with other models. You need replacement R34 GTT seats, or aftermarket seats with rails to suit R34 GTT only

Totally agree....life of the engine will depend on treatment, maintenance and dumb luck due to the tolerances involved. You can expect trouble very early for any manufacturing/assembly issues, then anywhere between 150,000-500,000 for life issues. Also worth noting that a properly rebuilt engine (rings, bearings, seals and correct tolerances) resets those estimates, so if you really like the car it is a valid option

Unfortunately replacing rings is an engine out rebuild, you would do bearings and seals at the same time, likely cost 5-10k. Before you did that you would do a compression test to confirm it was rings not something in the head, and unless the car is running terrible you would almost certainly just live with it and top the oil up between changes. Another possible (more likely) reason for burning a bit of oil on a mid age engine modern engine is the valve stem steals leaking. You would generally notice that most the longer since you last ran the car, it would burn a bit of oil as it first warms up then you probably wouldn't notice it after that. As with rings, you would probably just live with it; it is possible to fix in the car with a bit of fiddling but it would still be a big job. I've previously improved but not fixed older valve stem seals using an oil additive like this https://www.liquimoly.com.au/2782-engine-oil-resealer

Ha! No skylines are poverty spec any more

There are different setups in different r chassis cars. R32 GTR (and 33 I think) has 3 ball joints at the front as described above. Someone might be able to link you a 33 GTST service manual, I don't have that

Pretty sure it is "normal". Not shoe meltingly warm but there is a noticeable warmth from the transmission and exhaust, particularly on the passenger side in these cars. Our stagea is the same On long runs on hot days, without internal sound deadener, it has been shoe meltingly hot in the race car on the nav side

OK, so firstly, RBs do not sit parallel to the ground in their engine bay. I don't have an rb25 in an r33 handy to check what angle that combo sits at. A possibility is that you have the brackets on the wrong side? Secondly, I'm not sure it matters but the the mount brackets look like rb20 not rb25. rb25 look like https://www.jdmgarage.com.au/shop/engine/engine-accessories/engine-crossmembers-and-mounts/rb25-engine-brackets-pair/. Also note the mounts you are using don't have 2 studs at the subframe end but I guess that is your choice

I'm surprised you can hear a properly tensioned timing belt over the fan and injectors, gates or not. I run the gates one in the race car and can't hear it at all. Obviously they would get noisier between the belt and idler/tensioner bearings if over tensioned

I don't have direct experience with that. I can say on my HICAS stagea that stock R34 GTR wheels (18x9 +30) stick out about 10mm so your 18x9+25 must be very flush or already sticking out a little. They do tuck into the guards under load if that is your concern without extra camber required. Unless I can't use calculators, 18x10.5 +20 will sit 20mm further out than current, so you are going to need hilux flares unless you are going for the pokie outie look. No idea how the inner clearance is, seems like it would be OK (14mm less than your current, so you could get under and check) I use this site for offset calcs https://tiresize.com/wheel-offset-calculator/

Great to hear you got the immobiliser out and are able to start the car now, and I'd have to say what you had under there is typical of many quick/cheap alarm installs I've seen over the years - no wonder they are causing problems 20 years down the track

Yeah I wasn't able to get 285/35 to fit on 18x10+20 either, I am running 285/30 as well

Hi Sam, congrats on the purchase. Unfortunately 18x10.5 don't fit properly on the front. You might get away with removing the guard liners and using undersized "stretched" tyres. 18x10 +15 to + 22 fit OK The Enkies are not particularly strong wheels and you will find examples of broken ones as well. These days a GTR deserves quality wheels that fit properly.

And if you move the injector to another cylinder, does the missfire move as well? In any case, since you have factory ECU you need either factory injectors or aftermarket drop in replacement of the same flow rate. Also you may find it hard to buy single injectors they generally come in a set

Well, these days most of their presence is parts (from both Japan and China), but historically they are an importer and broker. They also do and support a lot of racing (not mine sadly!) so they have plenty of real world experience

If I needed someone to check out an import in Sydney, I'd get Just Jap to do it. They have a mechanic who has worked on a billion of these. Not sure if they actually offer the service but it would be worth calling and asking

Out of interest, how did you come to decide you need new injectors? Nissan would be a reliable replacement on a stock car but I guess not good pricing

It never ends

That sucks, I guess she doesn't want you to put those new tyres on her FWIW, it won't be the starter motor via a 60A fuse, way too small, but headers (and anything else you've modified, which is almost everything now :p) would be the place to start. Multimeter in the Fuse socket will probably confirm continuity to ground, and one option is to disconnect battery +, put 60A fuse back in and then check the regular fuses one by one to narrow down which specific circuit has the issue (I'm assuming the 60A fuse is in serial with the individual fuses like in sykline)

Have you seen examples of that fan not working on RBs? Why would it be substantially different on the different motor?

At face value, if the motor runs with the relay disconnected it is probably earth switched and it is earthing out somewhere in the loom

We would call that a half cage here as there are no legs from the roof at the B pillar down to the floor at the A pillar. As such it is road friendly in Oz (nothing to bang your head on), but also of very limited safety benefit and not legal for any racing. Hard to see in the pics, is there a point to bolt the extra legs on at the B pillar roof? It might be a standard kit like the cusco bolt in cage with the front legs not installed. I assume you couldn't find a brand on it or you would have mentioned...

Without having checked the wiring diagram, visually they all look like factory style crimps. They use brass joiners and a small piece of electrical tape from factory Have you seen the (readable) diagrams that GTSBoy posted up?

Best to take it to a shop. Diff bushes are a pain in the arse to change, it can be easier to drop the whole subframe (one of those jobs you can't do on a quickjack....) They need to be cut or pressed out, and pressed back in again at the rear, the fronts are easier to get to. You should be able to diagnose diff bush issues by jacking up the car, supporting with stands and getting a big pry bar between the diff and the chassis...it should not move noticeably.