Duncan

Can you drop it at my place, I cracked mine. I guess you have aftermarket/atmo blow off valve(s) or none at all. Pretty lazy just to leave it sitting there though

Even better if your car looks like a 90s volvo

correct, except importantly you can get defected at any time if the police *think* your car may not be legal, engineered or not. You will need to have the car re-inspected if so which would include checking back to the engineered details

Yes, this is probably the issue. a BOV is literally a big boost leak by design. It needs a vacuum line to the top of the BOV from after the throttle. If you don't have the same pressure in that vacuum line as the intake, the BOV falls open.

I've never removed the front half of the tailshaft, it sounds like you've separated the centre/hanger bearing. I'd undo the rear half at the diff, then the 2 bolts for the centre bearing hanger, then take it to a driveshaft shop to properly replace the centre bearing while it is out.....they are all badly worn by this age anyway

Yeah it is such a pain on the floor, but possible. Get the car as high as you safely can to have room to work. Like BK said the main thing is letting in engine tilt back. You probably have heater hosts between the head and the firewall, not sure but if you can get them out of the way it will let the engine tilt back further. If you can get the head to rest on the firewall it will be nice You must have the clutch aligned in the pressure plate before you start, using a clutch alignment tool or even better old input shaft I've used 2 floor jacks under the box, front and rear, so you can manage the angle of the box Then, you need to get the box high enough (probably at a pretty steep angle) to get the input shaft past the pressure plate fingers. Be careful among all the swearing not to rest the box's weight on the input shaft as you don't want to bend anything. Once it is past the pressure plate you can raise the rear of the box to be more level and move forward until the input shaft is in the back of the crank, yes you probably need to twist it a bit so the starter motor bulge clears. At this point the most important thing is exact same angle between the engine and gearbox (they should both still be pointing down as much as the engine can). You can check the angle is even by the gap between the bellhousing and the block being equal top and bottom and both sides. If it is not co-operating as you as the input shaft seats in the clutch plate, turn the engine a little with a breaker bar on the crank pulley. Most often if the splines on the clutch and input shaft don't align initially they will co-operate and turn enough on the way in, but sometimes you need to turn the crank just a little to sort it From there it needs to move forward until the gap is down to 10mm or less, at which point you can pull them together with a bolt / c clamp etc, as long as those gaps are even. If you force it crooked at this point you can bend the input shaft Get the top bolts done up before you level the engine again as you'll have better clearance. Best way is 3 or 4 long extensions on a ratchet, all above the gearbox to get to those 2 bolts, all the others are easy. It really is a shit job on the floor, these boxes are damn heavy. BTW I have done engine only out the top, engine and gearbox out the top and engine and gearbox out the bottom. Engine and gearbox out the top really is no fun because it is such a long weight to tilt and move.

I don't know about 700hp, but I run the stock rb25 throttle body on a greddy copy FFP, and it makes 400kw It does have drivability issues at very light throttle which I think is understand with MAP tunes with cable throttle and big cams These days, I'd 100% run an electric throttle instead.

Sorry I'm not sure, but to work it out turn on Ignition, unplug all and check which pin on the car side has 12v (which goes out with IGN). Then on the gearbox loom side check for continuity between that pin and any other when the auto is in Neutral, that is your neutral switch wiring. Same for Reverse. Probably the same for Park/inhibitor although I guess you will just loop that one. I'm not sure about C34 but in R32 the engine sub loom loom has reverse switch, neutral switch, oil pressure switch/warning light, power steering idle up switch, oil temp sender for gauge, alternator wiring and starter motor power and solenoid.

I assumed it was being period correct. Speaking of which I have some 90s period correct stuff I need to get out of my shed, need to sell it to the seppos. Anyway, welcome to SAU!

Great place to start and a surprisingly big job in a GTR..... Engine oil Front diff oil Rear diff oil Gearbox oil Transfer case fluid ATTESSA fluid Coolant Brake Fluid Clutch Fluid Power Steering /HICAS fluid Washer Fluid

In for nitznair's sponsored track day 😎

They say 05U on the side. Do you have a pic of the rods you have? The 3 just refers to journal 3 for the crank it came from.

I don't know if there is a hole on top of the boot lid under the stock spoiler (probably not, because why would there be...) but the underside of the bootlid and the rear cabin do have holes and grommets so it should all be fine. At worst you have to drill a hole in the top of the bootlid, protect the cables through it with something (eg, a short piece of rubber host) and make sure the spoiler's gakset seals properly to the boot (if not, a thin line of silastic would help)

SAU delivers!

That's OK, the car is in Japan.... I've imported through both of them (plus Just Jap and even Powerplay back in the day). I've never had an issue with any of them, the problems seem to be when you buy a car here that was imported for sale by someone.....klm go mysteriously missing and issues get overlooked in ads....

Yes, very possible for it to be wiring problem or possibly even led in the switch....you need an answer to that first question about what that switch actually does to know if the trans is responding to it or not. I understand that Snow should lock our first gear (ie, you move from a standing start in second) and Power should allow it to rev to redline before changing (while normal probably shifts at 70-80% revs) but I am not certain

Well that is a nasty end to the story. All the best getting better workmanship next time.

just to add....keep in mind "600hp" is about 300kw at the wheels, which is not a lot these days (every second gtst seems to be making 1,127hp). You can get there with the standard manifolds on an RB26 and probably a 25 too (not sure what car or engine you are talking about because it doesn't say on your profile)

that is a very interesting manifold design. I know you've got it so you want to use it, but you should also consider selling it to someone who wants genuine, period correct parts for a gazillion dollars and then buy something more modern and top mounted that has more space for a turbo and a more efficient design

clearly you just need a bracket to mount it under the throttle pedal

Pry out (without damaging seal), there is a circlip in the diff that locates it. Push back in

I totally get that you are coming from an "internal gate is easier to install" point, but fundamentally a single wastegate for a 6 cylinder is not very effective due to the conflicting exhaust pulses. It only really works well for smaller turbos in a proper setup, like the factory twins, where the separate exhaust pulses don't clash and the level of airflow that the wastegate needs to bypass is smaller. External gates are more painful to install but perform much better for big turbos, and twin wastegates on twin scroll for a single turbo on a 6 cylinder at the most effective; for most people modifying their car it is worth the effort.

Sorry I can't confidently answer the correct size....but I can say that pulling a rotor off and measuring diameter, thickness and offset (distance from bottom of disc to top of hat) is a good idea, because that way you can't go wrong. DBA website has a good catalogue to cross check once you have those measurements, often you can find a match against another Nissan of the same age if your model details are not there

Don't worry about the ECU, the GTS4/GTT wiring will be similar or identical to GTR. Generally aftermarket ECUs are plug in with either a minor wiring change or a setting in the ECU (2x air flow meters in GTR is the main difference) The issue is the wiring the ECU plugs into, not the ECU pins themselves

Definitely GTS4. 99% identical to a GTR and it doesn't really matter whether it makes 150kw instead of 200. Don't modify it, that is just a descent into the 100 levels of hell and a way to spend unlimited money. Enjoy it as the antique it is. GTR is stupid money if you don't already have one and non-GTRs will be looked on with just as much fondness in the future, have a look at that 2000 GT-X Skid Factory did