Duncan

Agreed....but if it is what he has.... I was wondering if there was a voltage drop with the AC on, the ATTESSA is pretty voltage sensitive, particularly if the subframe earths are missing/broken etc

1 wire oil sensors would be either temp or pressure warning light, although the latter is usually quite a large unit

I just have the standard one, it has been fine (for short distances) even with bigger tyres (I run 245/45/18). The bigger issue is that the standard spare doesn't fit over big front brakes, so despite GTSBoy's good advice, I have to run it on the rear. Have done so a few times without issue, just take it easy and change as soon as you can

I don't suppose you have any way to monitor the car's voltage when the issue occurs....it might be dropping and ATTESSA is the first thing to complain

No, it's really not OK. Like GTSBoy said it is before the turbos but there is still significant vacuum there under boost. You need to disconnect the other end and properly plug the intake with "something" correctly sized and a decent host clamp. And since that part wasn't done right you should check how everything was disconnected at the end you took the pic of too. Do you have any BOVs or are those ports blocked off? Is there a loose vacuum line there anywhere?

Since we are all wild guessing, I think there is some crap in your fuel tank. Try changing the fuel filter again and see if it improves for a while

...so, having that pipe there is no real issue as you can't have BOVs that return to the intake any more. you should however check what is at the other end of the pipe, from factory it joins into the intake just after the airbox and before the turbs. Duct tape won't stop a boost leak so hopefully both ends of it are disconnected and the intake port is properly sealed off

Can you drop it at my place, I cracked mine. I guess you have aftermarket/atmo blow off valve(s) or none at all. Pretty lazy just to leave it sitting there though

Even better if your car looks like a 90s volvo

correct, except importantly you can get defected at any time if the police *think* your car may not be legal, engineered or not. You will need to have the car re-inspected if so which would include checking back to the engineered details

Yes, this is probably the issue. a BOV is literally a big boost leak by design. It needs a vacuum line to the top of the BOV from after the throttle. If you don't have the same pressure in that vacuum line as the intake, the BOV falls open.

I've never removed the front half of the tailshaft, it sounds like you've separated the centre/hanger bearing. I'd undo the rear half at the diff, then the 2 bolts for the centre bearing hanger, then take it to a driveshaft shop to properly replace the centre bearing while it is out.....they are all badly worn by this age anyway

Yeah it is such a pain on the floor, but possible. Get the car as high as you safely can to have room to work. Like BK said the main thing is letting in engine tilt back. You probably have heater hosts between the head and the firewall, not sure but if you can get them out of the way it will let the engine tilt back further. If you can get the head to rest on the firewall it will be nice You must have the clutch aligned in the pressure plate before you start, using a clutch alignment tool or even better old input shaft I've used 2 floor jacks under the box, front and rear, so you can manage the angle of the box Then, you need to get the box high enough (probably at a pretty steep angle) to get the input shaft past the pressure plate fingers. Be careful among all the swearing not to rest the box's weight on the input shaft as you don't want to bend anything. Once it is past the pressure plate you can raise the rear of the box to be more level and move forward until the input shaft is in the back of the crank, yes you probably need to twist it a bit so the starter motor bulge clears. At this point the most important thing is exact same angle between the engine and gearbox (they should both still be pointing down as much as the engine can). You can check the angle is even by the gap between the bellhousing and the block being equal top and bottom and both sides. If it is not co-operating as you as the input shaft seats in the clutch plate, turn the engine a little with a breaker bar on the crank pulley. Most often if the splines on the clutch and input shaft don't align initially they will co-operate and turn enough on the way in, but sometimes you need to turn the crank just a little to sort it From there it needs to move forward until the gap is down to 10mm or less, at which point you can pull them together with a bolt / c clamp etc, as long as those gaps are even. If you force it crooked at this point you can bend the input shaft Get the top bolts done up before you level the engine again as you'll have better clearance. Best way is 3 or 4 long extensions on a ratchet, all above the gearbox to get to those 2 bolts, all the others are easy. It really is a shit job on the floor, these boxes are damn heavy. BTW I have done engine only out the top, engine and gearbox out the top and engine and gearbox out the bottom. Engine and gearbox out the top really is no fun because it is such a long weight to tilt and move.

I don't know about 700hp, but I run the stock rb25 throttle body on a greddy copy FFP, and it makes 400kw It does have drivability issues at very light throttle which I think is understand with MAP tunes with cable throttle and big cams These days, I'd 100% run an electric throttle instead.

Sorry I'm not sure, but to work it out turn on Ignition, unplug all and check which pin on the car side has 12v (which goes out with IGN). Then on the gearbox loom side check for continuity between that pin and any other when the auto is in Neutral, that is your neutral switch wiring. Same for Reverse. Probably the same for Park/inhibitor although I guess you will just loop that one. I'm not sure about C34 but in R32 the engine sub loom loom has reverse switch, neutral switch, oil pressure switch/warning light, power steering idle up switch, oil temp sender for gauge, alternator wiring and starter motor power and solenoid.

I assumed it was being period correct. Speaking of which I have some 90s period correct stuff I need to get out of my shed, need to sell it to the seppos. Anyway, welcome to SAU!

Great place to start and a surprisingly big job in a GTR..... Engine oil Front diff oil Rear diff oil Gearbox oil Transfer case fluid ATTESSA fluid Coolant Brake Fluid Clutch Fluid Power Steering /HICAS fluid Washer Fluid

In for nitznair's sponsored track day 😎

They say 05U on the side. Do you have a pic of the rods you have? The 3 just refers to journal 3 for the crank it came from.

I don't know if there is a hole on top of the boot lid under the stock spoiler (probably not, because why would there be...) but the underside of the bootlid and the rear cabin do have holes and grommets so it should all be fine. At worst you have to drill a hole in the top of the bootlid, protect the cables through it with something (eg, a short piece of rubber host) and make sure the spoiler's gakset seals properly to the boot (if not, a thin line of silastic would help)

SAU delivers!

That's OK, the car is in Japan.... I've imported through both of them (plus Just Jap and even Powerplay back in the day). I've never had an issue with any of them, the problems seem to be when you buy a car here that was imported for sale by someone.....klm go mysteriously missing and issues get overlooked in ads....

Yes, very possible for it to be wiring problem or possibly even led in the switch....you need an answer to that first question about what that switch actually does to know if the trans is responding to it or not. I understand that Snow should lock our first gear (ie, you move from a standing start in second) and Power should allow it to rev to redline before changing (while normal probably shifts at 70-80% revs) but I am not certain

Well that is a nasty end to the story. All the best getting better workmanship next time.

just to add....keep in mind "600hp" is about 300kw at the wheels, which is not a lot these days (every second gtst seems to be making 1,127hp). You can get there with the standard manifolds on an RB26 and probably a 25 too (not sure what car or engine you are talking about because it doesn't say on your profile)