Duncan

I am sure they are not a nissan factory kit, not sure what they are though

The problems are in converting a 2rwd (eg rb30) block to 4wd, in that case the oil pickup fouls the front driveshaft in the sump, and the block is not drilled for 4wd sump bolts (thus the 2wd to 4wd conversion plates). Using a 4wd block in 2wd should just be bolt on, noting the pickup location is different. It looks like the setup dose posted uses a custom pickup, probably because the sump well is deeper. If you try and move the pickup to the standard location you will have to drill to the oil gallery as the flange is in the casting but the feed is not drilled (and obviously you have to block the original pickup gallery with a plug)

I should add, if you dont have the spring that holds the pad retaining pins you run a risk of the pads falling out. At a minimum put r pins or even split pins through the hole on the retaining pins to make sure they dont back out

I reckon the pads look fine, but you can see that not having anti squeal shims might cause squealing. Even while you are waiting for them, give everything a through cleaning brake cleaner, you should be able to quieten in up

good to hear the engine is healthy! absolutely no idea about the other, it is an unusual description

or if you apply earth to 42 and turn the switch to low or high and apply 12v to 40or 41, the switch lighting should turn on

I know the smart choice is to let this go, but FYI those welch plugs go to the water jacket and have coolant behind them, so would not be great as a turbo oil feed. OP is holding a drill, not pointing at the welch plug. Per their first pic, they are asking about the factory threaded hole in the block between cylinders 3 and 4

Mate, I don't know what is going on with your posts, but I can only think one 1 welch plug in an rb that goes to an oil gallery and it is not externally accessible (behind the oil pump). There is another in the rear of the head but it is to a void not a pressure source. Please post a pic with exactly which welch plug you think would be suitable for use as a turbo oil feed. To OP, I don't have a disassembled block handy, but I believe the oil galleries are on the right side of the block, so yes it could be a pretty long passage. It looks like your sump is off so spin it over and have a look

There was a recent discussion here , but I'm not sure that confirmed it was D2S. If it is not written on the housing you might have to pull the bulb to check. As for changing it, I am not sure, but other nissans of the era you need to remove the front wheel and get to the back of the light via the wheel arch.

I thought the squealing was meant to come from the passenger seat, not the brakes. Are you using factory brakes? And do you know what pads and rotors? More aggressive pads and rotors (eg race ones) are more likely to squeal, but it always comes down to being caused by a tiny vibration when the brakes are being used. You need to pull everything apart, including taking the disc off the hub. Make sure the hub surface that the disc sits on is flat and clean (ie no rust flakes etc). Clean the disc with brake cleaner, scuff the pad surface on some rough concrete to give it a new surface (they might be glazed), clean the rear of the pad and both sides of the anti-squeal shims thoroughly. Make sure the surface of the caliper piston that pushes on the pads is also clean. Then reassemble everything, and if you are still concerned you can buy anti squeal compounds to put between the back of the pad, and each side of the anti squeal shims, although that shouldn't be required and can affect pedal feel. For the pulling to the right, that suggests the pistons in your left caliper are sticking a little, you should be able to tell if the right pads and disc are wearing more than the left. Either way, a rebuild of the calipers might be due

I don't think that is good advice, if you attach a turbo oil feed to a welch plug you will get coolant, not oil in most cases. In this case the oil feed seems to be there, it is just a question of making sure is connected right through.

well just be aware that if you want to hook up some generic switch, it will need to be good quality / high ampage, that is why the original fails. At least 20A rated.

No, the auto and manual consoles are quite different, and there was no s1 manual

Yeah mine shorted out but at least it only melted instead of burning the car down

Of course, it could be a wiring loom or globe issue, so unplug the left headlight and check for 12v when the lights are on low and high

sorry, to read that diagram and test the switch, you need a multimeter on continuity mode. You check the pins from the middle diagram, and the top diagram shows what should be connected when the switch is in particular settings. For example, on OFF, no pins should have continuity to each other. In low, 40, 41 should be connected. In high, 36 should be connected to 37, 38 to 39 and 40 to 41. I guess 42 is earth for the switch's lighting

Last I had to check, if your multi-meter-ing shows it is a dodgy switch (likely), they are available to replace new. *edit* yes, still available: https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-head-light-switch-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr-gts not cheap, but neither is a skyline these days

welcome Ben, looks like you have a bit to do...

Well, like tyres, when it comes to suspension (shocks in particular), a good brand will have a range of options at different price points, so there's no point talking about a brand overall. Noting you are not in Aus so availability might be different, I would go: cheap - BC racing medium - Bilstein B6 with adjustable circlip grooves (this is what I run on my race/rally car) serious - MCA Gold And yes, none of them are japanese....for Australian roads the japanese spring (and therefore shock) rates are almost always too high to be comfortable. There were some local companies modifying Teins with good outcomes but I don't think they are available any more

Awesome updates, thanks for posting. Did I get it right that the auto you bought had a clutch pedal installed BTW how is grumblebee? haven't seen it in a long time.....

Interesting. That diagram you show matches amayama The part I showed was at the bottom of the filler neck at the tank inlet, but neither this pic nor yours shows a part there. It does however show a part 17370M which is described as "anti roll over valve" in a totally different area I haven't come across this before but I assume it was some sort of running change during the series (mine is very late model S1), so maybe it is a S2 part and the catalogue is wrong for this vin (or maybe the tank in mine is actually from another model) If someone can share a S2 VIN, I can check that out

Not really, the second one uses blue hose

#rblyf

absolutely, either a specific product or just throw some diesel in with the oil for 5 minutes.

The extra detail does help. What was it that made you check for a headgasket issue in the first place if it never got hot? I'm thinking it might be fine and the milkshake is just from the original failure. Try changing the oil again and see if it is getting better or still bad. The coolant pressure test is a good check but it can miss an issue which only occurs when hot or at much higher pressures (like compression pressure)