mungy

exhibit A http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Skyline-R33-GTR-OEM-Left-Xenon-Projector-HID-Head-Light-/321136543930?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac53ac8ba

btw ill have xenon series 3 gtr lights in about 3 months, and no they cost me no where near $4000, ill post a pic when I get them in this thread for all to see.

you all need to put down the crack pipes and look up prices before quoting them. Firstly the RDH site is not 2039 its 1917.94 to be exact according to TODAYS exchange rate, and secondly no one mentioned xenon series 3 lights

Just saw the thread you linked me to was 4 years old..... Come on man get real the prices has dropped massively since then. http://www.rhdjapan.com/nismo-400r-front-bumper-lip-spoiler-set-bcnr33-skyline-gt-r-50566

Your joking about $3000 being cheap right? A brand new genuine set of 33 GTR headlights is $1300 and brand new nismo front bar is 1900, so your saying second hand for $200 less is cheap? And I bet it could be found cheaper if I looked abit harder, anyone in their right mind would buy good quality used for a huge amount less. And before you say it yes it is second hand, the moment it leaves the shop into a private owners hands it is second hand used or not. Please don't blame me for your sale falling thru, your pricing killed it not my question.

Nah turns out r32 is 60mm thick

All good, have got my answer

I have a VG30DET turbo sitting in one of my R32's at the yard, from memory the 32 was great with it on, i see no issue in using the op6 or 30DET turbo on a 20 as you can put more boost through em than a 20 turbo anyway.

Does anyone know what the thickness of the stock RB20 intercooler is? RB25 is 80mm for refrence.

Anyone know what thickness the stock RB20DET intercooler is? R33 is 80mm what is R32?

Hi guys really need to know quickly how thick is the intercooler core for a stock R32 gtst is, R33 is 80mm but i reeeeeaaaallly need to know what r32 is asap. if anyone has one could you please measure it and let me know, tank you in advance.

This guy is not serious about selling his car, you've had good offers over the 2 years you have advertised it and acted like an ass to all of them, never bothered paying a tiny fee to put it on carsales, or FREE on gumtree, now its too late for you. no one is going to pay you 9k for your car, keep it.

Abit more info would be better, location would be a good start

PM sent

This is strange, my R33 was stolen back in 2006 and was found just off OG road in an apartment complex, full tank of fuel, residents thought they lived in the complex as they drove the car daily. We might have found where these cars are going............. they have to be located close by or at least go there often.

How much you looking to spend? Simon has his old set for sale and they are wheel porn

shame they are 17...would love to find some 18's....

I have welded steel rims mate, I sit one under each corner of the car. They are welded with one sitting flat and the other sitting upright inside it.

Jimmy sway? people call me jim lol dun know about a sway

I'm still interested mate, but I need to know more about this box, could be an expensive ppg or osgiken, or jus some worthless junk that will blow up first time it sees 300rwkw. Very keen but only with info on the box.

It's fine mate anything below 80 I believe is good, give a workshop a ring to confirm, if your in SA I'd call garage 7

Ok i do this every day now and could do it in my sleep, no wood or blocks or special wheels needed. dont unbolt the box from the motor, it will make your life hell with the starter motor and top gearbox bolts, its 1,000,000 times easier to pull it out with box attached and drop back in with box attached and wiring done. start with the engine wiring loom, if your leaving the loom on the engine dont bloody touch it, just unblot it from the ECU and with a helping hand will pop thru the firewall easy enough. or you can unplug all the connections and hang the loom off to the side. remove the gearstick from the box if manual, or disconnect the levers underneath if auto. open the fuse box cover in the engine bay and with a 12mm spanner unhook the starter/alternater loom from the fuse box so u wont have to unhook any wires from the box or engine, take out the 10mm bolt lower down from the fuse box holding the engine earth in place on the chassis and unplug the rest off the loom at the plugs near the fuse box. next is the turbo piping and thermo fan, then radiator, power steering pump and A/C compressor, leave the p/s pump and compressor on the engine just undo the pipes and wiring connected to the pump and compressor. Heater hoses in the back and other bits attached to the motor at the top like vac lines and throttle cable. DONT FORGET THERE IS A CONNECTION GOING TO THE STEERING RACK, it will snap easy so becarefull when unpluging it. next get under the car, remove the exhaust first, then the tailshaft. after that undo the 2 14mm bolts holding the engine mounts in place from the bottom, if you remove the single 14mm nut at the top you might snap the engine mounts in half when pulling the motor up. now grab a jack and jack it up underneath the gearbox, undo the gearbox crossmember and shes just about ready to come out. do a final check to see if any more wires are still attached to the engine that are supposed to stay in the engine bay then grab a chain to hook onto the engine ( one near the back and one near the front ), if you dont have a chain a seatbelt will work fine so long as you tie it on correctly ( one thru the rear of the exhaust manifold and one thru the front of the intake ) jack it up slowly and jiggle the motor around slightly to get the engine mounts to pop up, once the mounts have popped up, check you have unplugged the steering rack plug on the drivers side, then one more check for things attached to the motor. jack the motor up some more untill the gearbox touches the trans tunnel then you can remove the jack underneath the box, then its a simple process of little up, little forward, little up and again little forward untill the bottom belt tensioner clears the rad support, once its cleared just keep jacking up and up. when you start pulling it forward more you will need the help of a friend to make sure the box isnt swinging around like crazy. done, takes me a total of 1 hour and 15 mins this way, trying to undo the starter motor and top gearbox bolts might take you an hour by itself.

No tricks needed, bolts on just the same and yes u need the big single VG30 turbo not its baby brother.

Looks fine, done the comp test yet?

any smoke? my R33 did that a while ago had a small amount of black/grey smoke turned out to be low comp motor.