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chook

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Everything posted by chook

  1. FS one slightly used, but as new, Asuka twin tuner Digital TV tuner, as per group buy. This one was installed in a Ford Territory for 1 week, but had reception trouble where he lived (not a prob for the factory stagea TV amplified antennas). Piggybacks onto the jap factory tuner. Superb, stable reception. Price: $240 + $10 for postage, includes some bits and pieces to aid installation into S1/2 Xanavi's. Can install into S1/2 Stagea for $60 if in Brisbane Area. Approx 2hr job. Or refer to pdf guide in link for installation tips. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St....html&hl=tv
  2. I dont think inertia is the issue for our cars, just personal preference. I am finding it more natural, maybe its a hangover from my years spent in the arcades playing sega rally and daytona USA...and also my PS3 wheel is set that way, so ill be keeping it. When i first got the Stag I found myself having to think about the direction, and sometimes I went the wrong way when I wasnt concentrating. I should happen without thinking, which seems to be the case now.
  3. Could be anywhere, depending on compliancer. If it is registered, then I wouldnt worry, your rego papers should show your aussie VIN #, adapted from your Jap VIN #, if they all match then shouldnt be a problem.
  4. cool, but dont we all have a bright green clock just above it that displays the correct time all year round ?
  5. forget it, completely different wiring harness for Air conditioner controls, and you will not have the ability to feed video into it easily. Choose one or the other, but don't try to mix them, it will only lead to tears. If you are after an AV setup then an aftermarket pop out screen is the best option. The Xanavi touch screen will handle most of the AV requirements (eg, mine has tv tuner/GPS/reverse camera through it) but the screen is somewhat small and low resolution, but neat.
  6. Gday, have you got the grey tiptronic selector cover, the grey cover with the PRD23 etc, as my clips are all broken. thanks. and also the metal fuel filler tube ? thanks again
  7. Just locate the dark green and grey on the RHS of the selector assembly. They run from the dip switches on the LHS, around the back and into a white pin block. There is plenty of slack in the wires, so cut them at equal points at the most assessible point, swap them and join them with either crimps or solder and heatshrink. I also found one of my bulbs was gone, replaced it, took that silly blue cover off the bulbs, still not that bright and I dont think it would ever light up the + and - unless you use some serious wattage, rather strange design from Mr nissan san.
  8. mod done, colours are same as V35, swap dark green and grey.
  9. I think the theory behind the 'other way' is, in high powered cars (not mine) you are changing gears with the 'G' forces and not working against them under accel and hard braking. eg http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JC6tTFp4W4o
  10. Yep, you are right, it would just keep revving in same gear until it hit limiter.
  11. I noticed on the V35 forum that a lot of guys have changed the way the tiptronic shifts, ie pull down to go up the gears instead of push up. Which is the more natural way I believe. Also the way XR6s are configured I noticed the other day. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ti...Di-t189357.html Has anyone done this on their S2/R34 ? I dont think the wiring will be difficult to work out but the + and - symbols look impossible to change, any ideas apart from stickers ? Although Im the only one who drives it, apart from the odd mechanic...which would be a worry....6500revs in 2nd then goes for 3rd only to get 1st.
  12. My clock only displays in navigation mode, which is redundant anyway and never displayed ( I run a garmin GVN53 GPS through the screen). My guess is that the time is taken off the GPS satellites so it will always display japan time.
  13. my 0-100k time is around 6.5 sec with similar mods with and dynoed 145AWKW (9psi).
  14. http://www.wsautomatics.com.au/extreme/re4ro1a_re4ro3a.php http://www.automatictransmission.com.au/re...sp?NewsId=19197 http://onroads.com.au/listing.php?id=158
  15. this marine (single) tuner is no good for car use (unless you are parked), you need a 'twin tuner' digital tuner to maintain the pic whilst driving.
  16. I usually get my plexus from marine chandlery shops, great for tail lights as well (originally designed to protect plastic aircraft windscreens). PlastX was harder to find, ask at supercheap maybe.
  17. Use meguiars PlasticX plastic polish and then protect them with PLEXUS.
  18. that's fine, or use a T-piece on one of the hoses coming from the intake manifold on the other side, in order to keep it neat and as short as possible.
  19. if your ballasts are still there its easy enough to reconnect everything...but that's prob not what you want to hear at the moment. Yours will have a D2R->H1 conversion plate in the housing, prob siliconed in. Dont know how compatable the D2Rs would be with your kit, connectors etc, voltages are usually pretty standard. I picked up my D2R bulbs (philips) and harnesses on ebay. Keep playing with the adjusting screws on the back of the lights, shine the lights on a wall and observe, one is vert and one horiz.
  20. was yours originally a XENON light ? if yes, get that reconnected, or change to D2R bulbs.
  21. also could be you are not using the correct bulb for which the lens is designed. If the bulb length is longer or shorter than the original, specifically where the element is situated, such as in aftermarket kits, the beam will be greatly affected...which is one of the reasons why they are illegal.
  22. think this might have been covered in the V35 forum, remember reading something a while back, have a scan/post there if no luck here. Also, send me the screenshot and i could translate it if you think it is not related to the AFM.
  23. you need to pull out the headlight assembly to properly see the HID ballast and assess the damage done by the compliance shop, ive done a few HID restorations to S2's including my own, PM me if you are interested, otherwise if you are happy with your present setup leave it be....but the difference in vision between the 2 is huge, as the S2 reflector shape is designed for the D2R bulbs. http://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auctio...7204#enlargeimg high voltage ballast/transformer is the black box in the centre, if that is still there then it can be converted back.
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