chook

remove center floor panels, left floor panel, rear black floor facia panel, top side trim: remove rear seat release handle surround (pry out small button clip inside) , 2x10mm bolts (behind hangers), unclip top trim so its loose. bottom side trim: remove 2 rear push pins, remove side flap door, remove clips on inner shroud above stacker. Pull out lower trim so you have room to work. Remove plastic inner shroud. Remove cd stacker (3 bolts and a plug) and gently place in garbage bin. You can now feel 3 RCA plugs under tuner, rear most plug is Video, then Right audio then left.

no problem, any D2Rs will be fine

Were they removed at compliance or not fitted from factory ? If they were removed at compliance, easy job to get them running again, no need for kit, just 2 D2R bulbs, 2 D2R harnesses ( if yours were removed ), and about 3 hours to remove lights and rewire them. Also 4000k to 6000k is best for driving, 10000k would be way too blue and attract attention. Mine are 4500k, which is close to factory. The higher the K value doesnt mean it is brighter, refers more to the colour, 3500K (Gold Yellow) 4250K (o.e.m.color / white with yellowish color) 6000K (Pure White - Blueish) 8000K (Purple White) 10000K (Pure Blue) They can handle different K value bulbs, same wattage, around 35w, bulbs are interchangable.

+1 for MV, he replaced my solenoids with the shift kit install.

ENZED, Pirtek or any Hydraulic service shop

I also just changed to an ALPINE USB deck, no more discs. FYI, I have found that a 4.0 meter RCA cable is the ideal length to run to the raer tuner.

yes, just run the RCA from your dvd through centre console, under back seat, under rear floor panel to left rear door pocket. There you will find the factory TV tuner on the right as you look in with RCA inputs on the bottom. You may have to remove shroud or CD stacker to access the plugs on the tuner. Use a good quality shielded RCA cable. Extra info here, in case you havn't seen, http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St....html&hl=tv

there are NO AV inputs on the back of the screen, only wires. AV1 are the mini-plugs on the front and AV2 are the RCAs at the rear of the car. If you are handy with wiring you can rewire the video AV1 plug internally into an RCA plug coming out the back of the unit.

definitely an early model, ie not update model.

www.are.com.au have plenty in stock

pm me your VIN # and I can tell you any other options this Stagea came with.

Its called "switch assy-radio" in FAST, so im guessing it will adjust your radio.

I agree, run the ECU diagnostic, get any codes and reset ECU.

run the ECU diagnostic, plenty of threads on how to do this.

There are 2 types of S2 rear lights, normal: 2 reverse lights cold area: left reverse and right safety red light (which only comes on from fog light switch on light stalk). So Im guessing you bought cold area lights but dont have the cold area wiring.

thanks, that should save me some time.

For those not aware, S2 Stageas, possibly S1s, have a clarion AM/FM radio aerial amplifier in between the rear left door and rear left window, about the size of a deck of cards. I noticed that the 12V amp is not receiving any power, which may explain why my radio reception has always been average. I have a theory that when the factory head unit is removed, the signal wire is ignored and 12V is not been sent to the amps when re-wired. I am installing a new head unit next week, so i hope to trace the wire and find a fix for this. Ill post results. Simon

+1 just keep all 4 tyres identical, including same brand and model, no problem

Found a source of most of my rattles today. Took out the hinged floor panel just behind the rear seat. Found that the hinges have about 20 screws, all were loose and were a big source of noise. Also this panels plastic base rests on the metal body in approx 6 places, used single sided 3mm foam stuck to the floor to insulate it from the plastic. Now it is quieter than its been since I bought it 3 years ago. Highly recommended.

it would affect the behaviour of the auto eg timing of the gear changes, if it was me, i would change it back. If you want mph you could use a turbo timer/boost controller/safc etc

These are taken from an R34 manual, same as S2, but should be similar to S1. Anyway, Speed Signal 2 looks to be the signal produced by the instrument panel/meter and sent to the ecu (taken from the speed signal 1 in transmission/gearbox). Could be a continuity problem in the wiring or a electronic problem in your instrument panel. Best to get the multimeter out, or swap an instrument panel with someone if you can.

ill go through the workshop manual tonght when i get home, see what i come up with.

Does it reappear when you erase the codes, drive and test again ? does it drive ok ? could have just been a one-off fault that has stayed in the memory. The speed sensor 2 relates to the Auto tranny diagnostic, so shouldnt have anything to do with ABS, you would think ??

It does retain error codes, run it yourself : http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=3605428 quite tricky to activate the diagnostic mode, takes a few attempts to get it right. possible a shift solenoid by the sound of it ??

thanks, checked FAST as well, same part number for master cylinder assembly for S2 Stagea RSfour and R34 Gtt, so bias must be same from the master cylinders.