RS4-S

+1 also with the australian dollar the way it is against the US dollar that means that given K sport are an american brand the australian distributor should be cheaper, especially with a bulk buy. most group buys ive seen the parts are cheaper then ebay or any other online auction so thats why i said haggle them down. just like tempe tyres sydney with their parallel importing of kumho tyres, they sell them cheap as chips, cheaper to the customer fitted than a tyre shop can buy them from the distributor. why pay premium price for the same product when its a non-australian imported product in the first place? most the people selling them on ebay are genuine K-sport distributors so the invoice is valid for the 18month limited warranty they offer

pics? edit: just found the link cheers

haha yeh i know, purely brand name. some people put the old one out and repair it and weld the hell outta it to strengthen it. looks like theres 2 studs that go through the firewall and the clutch master bolts to the other side so you can un bolt that without disconnecting the fuild line and there will be maybe 1 or 2 more bolts from inside the car and it should come out?

i havent seen it with k-sport but i have on some BC's on a vrx lancer. all we did was flush the lower mount with Rost off (WD40) to try and get some of the dust etc out of the threaded section and lubricate it abit. it did free up but was still very stiff. if your adjusting the height wouldnt you be adjusting the lower section of the coilover and not the spring purch? cos then you are just adding moreor less pre load on the spring

doctor

the pedals should be on seperate little boxes and very few bolts. you should have to remove the dash for it. here a link to a "beefed up" nizmo clutch pedal bracket (look at the thickness compared to standard) http://justjap.com/s...&cat=277&page=1

very nice looking ride mate!

if it doesnt come through the wheels it would be perhaps the rear wheels, u may have one with a slight buckle or it has been counter balanced. most tyre shops if you ask for a balance will only ever do the front wheels anyway. try rotate your wheels from front to rear and see if it tranfers to a shake in the wheel. also are these aftermarket wheels without CBLs? (centre bore locating rings)

As the topic states im after a rear bar, either Dayz (prefer S2) or RS260 but will look at any other aftermarket bars people have sitting around. the standard bar cuts away too much from the bodyline at the rear and its killing me inside haha

how much for both chrome rear handles that drop the rear seats?

cordia its one letter away from cordial, which is sweet so yes i can if you got some exhaust piping. i was going to buy a pipe bender 2 months ago but bought some R34 GTR clone buckets instead. if i get a white bar i might just take you up on that offer but im chasing a rear bar at the moment. good shit jax in canberra is a good chain to work for, good bunch of blokes

black series 1 stagea 260RS. black with black rims in belco. hellz yeh

hey i need the plastic 'recline' handle off the side of the drivers seat (mine has just vanished). are your seats black with blue inlay and look like R34GTT seats? if yes then how much just for the handle if you'll part it

certainly can, what ya need doing?

search function?

black dayz bar aye at jax in phillip, was office bitch and rego inspector 80% of the time.

i say drive it til it stops, just make sure you check all your fluids etc

if she still runs a treat maybe its the colder weather. more moisture in the air. all the hydracarbons in your exhaust the CAT turns to water/steam so maybe its just abit more due to ambient temperature cooling the steam down before it exits the exhuast?? also NEVER USE BARS STOP LEAK! its like kitty litter in oil and all it does it block anything and everything it can and turns your cooling system to chocolate milkshake. if you must, use a product called "stop n go" or "seal n go" (cant remember it exactly) which is a small clear bottle with copper looking gliter in it and its actually liquid glass once heated and sets hard and seals cracks in heads and blown gaskets etc "for good" they quote. worked for 18months on my shitter falcon which had blown all the water jackets out the exhaust side of the block and no1 cylinder (head is off now but needed it to runs for a few more months at the time)

mark the cloudy/milky look is the outer face of the lense thats been damaged by UV rays. the lense is plastic and you can leave them on the car while cleaning. the kit i got says to tape over the edge of the panels around the light to avoid damage to the body

i bought an "invision" headlight restoration kit from repco on the weekend cos me $33 on special. comes with lense cleaner stuff to remove the damaged lense and some UV stuff for after. i saw a demo 12months ago for this brand and they look like brand new lenses after. will do mine this weekend and take pics if anyones interested

for those who like screaming and dubstep: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yh6hqacTdss for those who like cats and cars hahah:

fixed

i posted this up before but seriously this is that funny

i <3 dubstep

that RC clip is sick! some of those are running some serious camber and fitment