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^First I heard of this. Is that for R32s that came with OEM projector type headlights?

Ooh the baby's coming back home!

Wonder when and where he got that priced?

ahaha gotcha. Just checked and it's about $43 AU after conversion if you go to wiperblades.co.uk instead of buying trico ones from autobahn for $60-65 or something stupid like that. Does repco sell bosch blades?

You had metric then you just added inches - that's imperial.. Just thought I might add. Ended up buying trico flat blades from autobahn to suit an r32 gtst. 20" fronts and 18" rear according to the book they had. Got em but not fitted yet. I will order the bosch for next time I reckon..should be cheaper from that wiperblades site depending on shipping of course.

Not bad. A bit over $850 if you buy locally I believe...

For an r32?

Sorry to bring up a slightly past use-by thread. Searched for Bosch aerotwins for a r32 on that wiperblades.co.uk website and it seems that it uses AR18U all around?!! Front 2 and rear all the same?? And anyone used a flat blade to replace their rears? Somehow I think the website has wrong data... I'm sure the driver side is meant to be longer. I can't tell since mine already had aftermarket ones (refills you get from any auto store). Can anyone confirm? If I could guess it would 20" aero for driver, 18" aero for passenger and 18" normal blade for rear. I would advise people to measure their originals if they can before buying.

What did it end up being?

I think Links also do something similar to an IQ3 that would probably plug and play with their ECUs..might be worth looking into. I imagine your PowerFC would sell easily if you were keen. EDIT: Looks like Haltech have an IQ3 as well..

So an ECU change? Haltech, Link or something else? I've seen those IQ3s on go karts. Looks pretty nice.

Pardon if already mentioned but I couldn't find what ECU you are using. Still stock?

For what it's worth thought I might update this... The 75W90 yields a quieter diff. Less friction (as a result viscosity) means the clutch isn't being engage at lower loads. It still is a bit clunky but a huge improvement (i.e. reduction) in that clunky sound. Recommended. It is also white. 75W140 seems nice for the gearbox. Bit notchy but feels nicer than the Redline LWSP I had in there.

Loving the white and black. Did you paint the inside of the doors or just been cleaned? Looks different to previous pics

I think they mean mechanical as opposed to viscous LSD. Not that LSDs actually do mechanical work which would be a redundant sales pitch for gear oil. I could be wrong...

Does anyone know if the above motul oil above would result in a quieter mechanical diff? Firstly, I have an OS Giken Mechanical LSD diff which had Redline LWSP in it and it was clunky as hell in cold. Fine when warmed up on track. Bought Motul Gear Comp 75W140 to replace the redline today and replaced it just then. It is slightly less clunky than the redline cold. Haven't tested in hot temps but I'm sure figure it will be sweet. Then I saw the FF-LSD Type 2 rated at 75W90 but it says the magical words: "Mechanical" and wondered if this one would be quieter in the cold and for street driving and not clunk the crap out of pedestrians. Will there be any difference? Is there less friction in the FF-LSD for a quieter drive? School me please. Funnily enough, the 75W140 is cheaper than the FF-LSD Type 2. Anyone have experience with both?

That is a shame! So both gearbox and engine ecu etc that's left is from same car? RB25DETNEO? Could you PM me pics please? It might be a bit too much getting it shipped though...

I see you've gone and ignored my suggestion about space savers, so next best suggestion is CE28n. Btw where did you get the memory ducting from? I need some for myself. is that what they are called?

Seems like Motorsport Connections have got a repeat customer eh Paul... Was gonna ask where the oil cooler was going but I remembered you have an inbuilt oil cooler.

Berry berry nice work mate. No I meant Incredible work. Although I had to shut the blinds and lock the door to view some of your gtr porn a few pages back but other than that good read! I wanted to ask - where did you get the speedflow fittings and hose from? And I didn't realise you could use dry ice to get rid of all that black tar crap in the boot etc...you learn something new everyday. Did you also replace the cable from positive battery post/bracket to the fusebox? Nik

^^That is what I'm talking about. Still haven't got around to buying the FX-Rs. Good to see someone has it worked out.

Noticed the braille AGM battery. Where did you get that one from locally?

Lol feel like a lightweight with my r32 gtst rb20det compared to the gtrs here. This thread has seen many years... I have redline lightweight shockproof (smurf's blood) in diff and gearbox (there weren't any issues with gearbox in the first place but wanted to try it). Not sure what the previous owner had in the car but replaced with redline. Wanted all synthetic. Changed to mechanical (and noisy) OS Giken 1.5way and smurf blood takes a while to warm up. On the track after a few figure 8s and laps suddenly no noise and everything is very nice but bit slippery. On the road, I just have to live with the noise when going around a corner (yes it is that noisy and noticeable by pedestrians). Someone recommended Penrite limslip 140 (don't think it is synthetic) or similar for a heavier fluid to reduce noise. Also, I never put any modifiers or treatments like I see on this thread - how is this important? Does brand mixing matter when using modifiers etc? Engine was 10W40 (may try other brand or 15w50 next for a hotter climate up north here - may be overkill since I only do some track events and slowly increasing time spent on track). Wanting to change out all oils with some good reputation ones..brake fluid (someone mentioned motul 600), power steering etc. Any recommendations? And breathe........

Lol too awesome for your car... Got a 10w6 recently otherwise I would jump on 10w7. Folks that is an amazingly cheap price for a 10w7!

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