Messiah

Welcome Cat. So what kind of titbits, advice and dribble are you looking for? Also you dont poop in gravel while glaring superiorly at people do you?

see.... told you he's hugely helpful

i'm not sure about uproar... but a guys only cruise sounds kinda homo-erotic.... i think only eps would be up for it.

if i recall you need a license to bid... not just residence so you'll need a licensed agent in jap. to OP. J-specs a very good place to go for info... he has buckets of it... plus a nice nifty new site that i troll daily, look it up. if your looking to actually import, then j-spec can help there too, there are also others like Iron Chef, Beer Baron, etc etc who are also hugely helpful.

if i recall someone did a nissan v8 into a gtst a few years back on this forum... cant recall their name... but i tihnk it was a 4.5 or so. so its been done.

Nice... kinda makes me tihnk of nissans take on the chaser.... Could be a fun engine swap platform.

again, checkout the solenoid for an EBC, i cant recall the exact logic of the one i have fitted, but it has 3 hoses attatched, so i'm thinking 1 pressure source in, and the ability to electronically switch between one of 2 outs either totally or in varying degrees. Rig it up backwards and you have 2 pressure sources in, of which you can select one. btw my ebc is an eboost, not suggesting you go to the lengths of getting a whole kit, but it might give you a guide as to what solenoid it uses.

stag, not low, can get nice leather interior, plenty of space, 4wd traction, range of colours (inc saph blue) more mod cons than yr average rolla, infact keeps up with is's in luxospec if you buy the right one. Plus plenty of aus importers stock these locally, so you dont have to wait for import.

how about you use a solenoid from an EBC, that should allow you to change boost feed to the location by a varying amount.

heh i just remembered i have the 33 manual... time to go looking in there for where the pipes should be. Thanks for the imput Wolverine, it will be the first thing i look for. If it has been bypassed... i guess that will mean i should pull it out and see why.... damn

Lo all, Since i bought it the heater in my 33gtst has never worked, aircons fine... heater flows air... but its stone cold. My understanding is that there is a core connected to the engine colling system that sits deep inside the dash that is used to heat the air. I'm going to go on the assumption that the problem lies here, bit it blocked off, bypassed or missing entirely (might have leaked for the prev owner). I thought a good approach would be to disconnect the pipe work to in inside the engine bay and run water through to it to see if it came out again. It strikes me that i might get caught out here if the core is bypassed inside the cabin, dont know how to check that, but i imagine i might get some idea if it is by how long it takes for the water to come out the other end. And i'll probably do a coolant flush as seeing as i've disconnected stuff. If this test fails guess i'll have to pull the dash and go looking at the core (i want to avoid this if possible). if it works... well i'm going to have to look back towards the block and try to figure it out. Anyone care to offer some feedback or suggestions regarding this. TBH i'm not sure what pipes i need to disconnect in the engine bay to get started so i'm going to start looking that up.

i'm going to leave my last post up but i do want to make an apology for not saying what should have been said politely and clearly in the first post. ZW, you might have a perfectly legit question, and a reasonable reason for asking. i didnt ignore it as i believe you it does deserve answering. You would do better shaping your question by offering some arguements you are considering, such as why you wouldnt start with a lower spec gtr as a starting point as an example. As paul mentioned, you can learn a hell of a lot spending big on a car, and that can be worth it. However, you can also learn alot by considering your long term goals and options and exporing them on paper first. this will often making your mechanical learning process less frustrating, cheaper and generally more efficient.

Paul, the problem here was the total lack of evidence supporting prior research. there was no tailoring of the question, requests for clarification of a specific technology, just the same ol "how do i make my cheap car faster than the expensive car". Now i suggested things for him to look at and consider, physical and performance specs, and suggested that after considering these points he should have most of his answer. I think we'd then all welcome any more detailed specific questions he had. So once and for all i'm going to answer all the newbie questions we get regarding this kind of stuff with a rant. You can make ANY car faster than any other car given sufficient budget, both in time and money. What you lack in personal expertise, with enough cash you can buy someone elses. Should you pursue this route then all you have demonstrated is an overwhelming drive to waste money, as normally by the end, you could have just purchased the faster car and made it faster still. Now there is one exception here. Sometimes someone will come up with a particularly novel approach to upgrading performance. Some i've seen include supercharging an RB, rb31's by a personally designed sleaved and open decked setup., a given qtr mile time using stock internals. All of these can come at a tremendous cost, but none the less they can justify it based on the knowledge that is acquired during the task. So to sum up... ZW, if you want reliable gtr killing performance, buy a gtr and mod it. If you want a RWD car, want to track it competitively against a gtr, but dont know how to over come a specific problem. The ask about the specific problem. explain realistically and reasonably why your looking to do it this way and we'll be more than happy to help. /RANT

school holidays ended last week didnt they?

I'm not going to answer this directly.. and i really hope no one else does either.... Dude, this question is really daft... i mean REALLY daft.... Sit down... look up the differences between the two cars, weight, engine, drivetrain suspension etc etc and do the maths. the answers are all obvious, and by thinking about it yourself you wont look like the kind of newb who jumps on a forum and for his first post asks how to make a cheap midrange skyline go faster in all conditions to a top of the line skyline... ooh... wait... too late.

i dunno... i think 90k is possible... maybe even frequent and easy. theres a catch tho. I've seen a number of high powered cars go for low prices, its pretty common, but you know what??? They've all been thrashed, they're going for that price because they're tired, worn and are starting to cost more in maintenance than they're worth. So yes you can get your 650kw 34 gtr for 90k, you'll then go on to spend the money that you "saved" plus maybe a bit more, reconditioning everything so that it runs for longer than a few months.

Very cool, i was surprised by the flame on ignition, i'd always thougt it would look more well.. eveen... not so scattered.

mate honestly, you first asked what your realistic options where and we've told you them. To get an FI car with 4wd and stay nissan you either buy one of two cars (stag or gtr) or spend your whole budget, plus some to convert your current ride into an inferior imitation. Now beyond mere monitary considerations, consider time aswell. All in all you wont realstically get a engine, drive train brakes wheels etc etc done in the budget your considering, and if you were to take it a step further and pump the budget, you just make the case for buying a gtr event stronger. GTR's out of japan are pretty good right now, 32's are dirt cheap, and 33's are more than reasonable. If you have the budget to convert, you have more than enough to swap cars.

Good job this isnt a test then isnt it. And as the OP said, he didnt ask oz honda as he's not looking for rabid fanboy POV, instead he's looking for varying points of view from people capable of both critique and praise. What greater praise could there be than that from someone who isnt a mindless fan of the vehicle in question.

200 stfu, you just making an ass of yourself. Your criticism would be better placed if you atleast added something constructive, even if its not a literal and precise intrepretation of the question. Sometimes a related point of view can make someone consider a previously unthought of angle, which is what i expect swift is trying to do. I'm going to go with the spirit of this thread and discuss what people MIGHT see in type -r hondas, and to boot, i'm going to do it with no personal ownership experience. A majority of the charm with honda's are the performance that comes with their weight and handling, pretty much every other na cars out there since the 86 has largely moved away from this and has used brute force to overcome any hurdles. A light weight body with a snappy high reving engine is really the NA equivalent to a larger cap FI. the type r doesnt come on song until higher rpm and we dont come onsong until we spool up. When it comes to torque, keep in mind that rx7's for example have never been torque monsters, but light well distributed weight and a high revving engine can deliver a car thats a joy to drive around the twisties. On sometihng tight and squirrelly, ods are the honda boys will leave us behind, the might do the same with your little go cart too swifty... until you both get the the next decent straight. Now as an added childish idea... i've heard the yanks create some absolute frankenstines by mixing honders and FI.... strange mix... but fcking quick.

nope... wrong... by the time you buy your front cut, and then pay for labour/swap over. You could have just sold your car and bought a GTR. Stop trying to be cheap and bite the bullet. Or get a stag.

bloody murphy's! thing started working again yesterday, after about a week or two of not. i'm wondering if maybe the cd's wobble out of position and jam things up until they wobble back. Really dont trust the unit after this. Chris, got some finacial things to do still, but once done expect to hear fro mme for some major upgrades.

yeah but a camry with the above issues would actually move faster than a walk for once.

http://www.j-specimports.com.au/dealer/199...ON-3433768.html

shame you just bought one, i saw a post in the last 24h's where a rb26de is up for sale in japan. As for high reving, high reving is good... but 10k rpm is ALOT. and for an rb30 it would need major balancing and a big spend. Keep in mind you bike only has tiny moving parts, so high rpm is no biggy. my rule of thumb is big displacement == slow lazy torque, low disp == high strung power. you can mix the two but its not always cost effective.