Bobjones

I have a very similar problem, have checked rear gearbox mount, uni joints, diff, engine mounts and cannot find a problem. Am thinking its clutch related but do not have the time to pull apart at the moment...

I finally got mine working....

I have a 96 series 2 and it came with front and rear...well it had a front one but someone removed it prior to my purchase... Oh and I have a rear wiper...

Hey Krawler I did not KNOW that you were buying it from a yard. In that case I would have gotten an inspection done BESIDES the safety certificate. Alot of the time it will NOT show up problems that you will find later... Oh and of the case of road test, they are required to perform the brake and hand brake test...

I do!!! Could you please send it to Neill.Reilly@pitcherqld.com.au thanks

Most road "safety" certs are just that...not safe. You get what you ask for, so you must have asked for a dodgy one, thus you are dodgy and YOU are taking the risk Nizmogirl... I am sure some of us HAVE done a dodgy one, especially when transferring to a mate who KNOWS what they are getting but still want the rego... So if your gonna throw stones, you should ensure that your glass house is unbreakable...

Can't someone just close this thread...me thinks that some people need to admit when they are wrong and take one of these

I have bought a few things on the net, mainly from www.mercurymotorsports.com.au And have had no trouble.

You could always try Tony Powell plumbing supplies at Geebung, he usually has alot of good plumbing stuff and other pipes... Also on the notion of polishing... I did the rocker cover on my SR20DE, all you need is some 600 sand paper, then go 800, 1000, 1200 wet and dry and wet is the best option, then get a polishing kit from Bunnings that attaches to a drill ($30) and some rags and of course wax and grease remover and finally some metal polish...brasso everyone seems to have here... Took a while cause I was drinking...but came up better than a mate who paid $120 to get his done "professionally" Looking at doing the line's covers one day...

Thanks Steve, I thought that may be the case, its coming out of the box, an auto box would be completely different... As for the shudder I am thinking of taking the box out as the throw out bearing is making some noises...maybe the alignment of the pressure plate is cactus. I think the black one (closest to front of car) is the reverse one definitely cause the reverse lights still work...just weird that the other one has no friend... Thanks

Yeah reverse lights work, just cannot locate anything that may in fact plug into it... And I am sure that the speed sensor/limiter is working if you get my drift... I have had a look at a series 1 and it had the same plugs, but the gearbox had been replaced with an unpsecified year second hand box...

I would like to add... Silver Green BA Falcon Wagon...operating on the M1...unsure of plates Has mags no stickers or significant markings.

Ok after trying to find the shudder that occurs some times when putting IN the clutch, ie checking rear gear box mount...(note I am yet to find the problem) I noticed TWO plugs on the drivers side of the gearbox casing. One had a balck cover the other blue, both with two wires. Now the problem is the black one is connected the blue covered on is not. Can anyone tell me what these are for?? Why is the blue one not connected??? Should it be connected, considering I cannot find the female side to connect it?? Dammit I need one of those workshop manuals :flamed:

Drivers side inner guard (the bottom half that attaches to the front bar)???

Bob Jane at Toombul is about the only Bob Jane I have ever been to...and it was only out of necessity. They had great service and I will only use a wheel brace which they were happy to use for me. The only other places I go for good wheels and even better tyre deal are Quickfit at Newmarket (Scott) or Yerongpilly (Jason). The Yerongpilly store also do Dunlop motorsport so you can get good track tyres for good prices. If you are in the need for tyres due to better prices I would go and see Jason, just mention my name and he will help you out personally (not in the way some of you may like though...) Cheers Neill

Errr you have two prices in your add... Me thinks everyone if any will offer the lower of the two...just quietly Please post some pics to what_johnson@hotmail.com

Having the timing belt and water pump changed at Ni$$an would be more than that... I think it is a reasonable price, especially if that includes, all fluid incl brake and gearbox and diff changed...hell that is cheap... Another place I would RECOMMEND so I am not perceived to be negative is Peninsula Mechanical at Redcliffe ask for Simon. Oh and Turbolight is about all I will use besides Mobil 1, and I used it in my bro's 4 stroke bike...****in good oil.

I am 25 rating 1, Just cars for a 96 GTS-T with bodykit, mags and exhaust with Viper alarm is 1,200, compared to Suncorp which is $983, however, that means that my girlfriend, 22, cannot be covered...under 25 insurance SUCKS on anything decent...

Harun had his RB25 basically rebuilt there and alot of other work...as seen by the 12 sec pass... PM him and he will be able to give you more details. Also I would recommend Charlies, but ONLY if Dave or Charlie work on the car, as an old friend of Dave's I know he knows his shit, however some of his apprentices have let the name slip. Also All Star at Zillmere did a mates cooler and service on his s15, quality work and good service. There are a few places I would avoid on the Northside not mentioning any names but they are located at Aspley and Geebung... Also Gavin woods is VERY good at identifying a problem, its your choice whether you get it done there or elsewhere...and remember if the place used to specialise in body kits and still do...then don't trust them with the motor unless its to paint it...sorry speaking from experience...

I don't know if this has been stated before cause I ran out of patience reading through some of the crap... Garrett make turbo's for HKS to their specifications, alot of the time based mainly on high performance applications and requirements. HKS and Garrett SHARE info re turbo charger technology, and an agreement is in place that they do not produce too similar products. That is they may have the same code yet different boost and response curves etc... Now HKS also do alot of TESTING for such large manufacturers such as nissan on the s15 and other models...while Garrett at the same time is the SUPPLIER... At the end of the day you get what you pay for, and you have to research everything to get what you Need/Want...if you don't want to pay that much for a turbo then DON'T... However, i would like to see a 3040 comparison as their specs are VERY close to one another...from what people can determine from dismantling the bloody things... Oh and for the record I would prefer to get a Garrett, however a comparitive Garrett to an RS-R I am yet to locate...any info???

I have heard this is a common problem with R33's. That the rear gearbox mount breaks or shits itself or whatever and there is a slight knock when changing gears. Can anyone lend some light on this and if I can change it myself??? Part number if I have to get it from Ni$$an??? Or if I am parking up the wronmg tree any help would be good, I have done a search on this but I want to be certain, as it only happens sometimes when going from 1st to 2nd and not necessarily at high rpm...occurs some times at 3-4k... Thanks in advance Neill

You could also try www.nissanexa.org.au or www.pulsar.org.au There is always a couple coming up in either of these places!!!

Free bump for a farkin nice bike... But as for the 32...well I will leave that one alone... I will be in the market for an R6 in about 3 months so don't hold ya breath for me. GL with the sale!!

Sounds electrical, if you don't know how to check them go to someone that does. You will need to check the impedence on the coil packs and you require a metre to do that... Its not as easy as removing one at a time to check like on a non-coil system, however it can be done but if you zap yourself, then all I can say is that you have been warned, safest bet go see an auto electrician. I would not do this if you DON'T know what your doing, the post below describes how to do it, however make sure you DO NOT have the leads near anything otherwise you WILL cook your ECU, ignition and maybe some hair!!!

Anyone... This is a genuine very well looked after car... Pretty much stock except diff wheels, kit and exhaust.