Iron Mike

Ok, so we all know that it is always better to buy a car with a full service history and logbooks to authenticate the kms (along with a mechanical and visual inspection of the car), but how much of a difference does it make to the resale value of a relatively rare car such an R34 GTR v spec II? I’m seeing more and more of them around these days with no logbooks or paperwork that are surprisingly (somewhat) clean, and I’m also seeing some around which look old and worn but with logbooks, that have obviously had the k's wound way back. So how much of a difference do you think it makes? Would you buy a car that had a mechanics ok and looked clean to you if it didn’t have any paperwork?? Also, would you go for a good but aged car with a full genuine service history and all accompanying paperwork (lets say it had done ~100,000 kms), or one which looked and felt quite a bit newer with nothing to substantiate the k's (lets say this one's apparently done only 55,000 kms)?

What happened in your experience where you complained to senior management and got a decent outcome? When I spat the dummy and asked to speak to management they put me on to what seemed like a low-level manager who just rephrased exactly what the guy before told me. No change to anything, and he was quite reluctant to help me out in any way - "Theres nothing I can do" were his exact words. I live in a 'safe' postcode in Melbourne's suburbs, yet because my postcode begins with '3' I'm getting majorly screwed.

Hi all, I am in desperate need of an R34 GTR v-spec middle lower lip. The one that goes inbetween the front bar and the lower diffuser. Not fussed on colour and condition needs to be decent. Cheers

That's what I'm thinking too. Ok, sure as a general sweeping statment, import cars might be at a higher risk of crash/theft/claims etc, but how much higher? Enough to justify paying a horrendous premium of $2600, then that being overly inflated to $3700? Its BS and we all know it. Like jjman said, they do have a monoply in the market and are exploiting it for all its worth. If decent competition came along they would have a very good chance of making something of it....

Yep so its hit you too. I just can't swallow that pill. A 50% increase in a premium which is already exorbitant is just plain ridiculous. I gave shannons a call and they said they dont usually help out in such situations but they would this time, however the premium they gave me was still above 3k. Lumley's sounds like a great option however I too haven't hit 25 yet.

If only RACV covered GTRs :I ..... It sucks that we're majorly strapped for insurance options

A while back someone posted a thread about R34 GTR insurance and how much everyone was paying for it (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/360051-r34-gtr-insurance/page__p__6374995#entry6374995). At the time I was paying around 1900 for my premium with just car (originally 2500 but brought premium down to increase excess) for a 24 year old male with a 2001 v-spec II some mods agreed value of 65k living in mebourne. Just recently I recieved my new policy and my premium went up to $3700 p.a! My initial reaction was W#TF@! this must be wrong or some seriously bad joke, so I called up just car and to my dismay it was anything but that. My driving history, claims history, location etc is all the same. Nothing on my end has changed yet somehow, for some reason, my premium almost doubled. While I was in utter disbelief hurling a flurry of abuse at them on the phone they told me that it had gone up as a result of the christmas hail storm in melbourne and all of the claims that resulted, as well as the flooding in queensland last year. Surely that can't be right, that's too much of an increase. Has anyone else's R34 GTR premium gone up this much? I'm considering contacting the ACCC or ombudsman....

hahaha ^ I think the 'r32 gtr non-turbo' car your after is called a 'celica', and you want a 'manual' not a 'Manuel'

pm sent herb

hey mate, do you have the front driver and passenger door cards up for sale??

What SAU really needs is a 'for sale' section for private sellers that seperates cars into 'skylines' and 'others'. At the moment its too damn difficult looking through pages and pages of adverts for a particular model skyline, especially when most of the cars aren't even for skylines to begin with! Something like Skylines > R31, R32, R33, R34 > then series eg. BNR34, ECR34 etc. All other cars should just be grouped as others seeing as theres so many varying makes and models with very few of each. This would save a great deal of time and effort and I'm sure many would appreciate it!

$1900 Just Car '01 V-spec II 24 yo in melbourne. agreed value with mods 65k. sucks to live in sydney

What condition is the interior in? can we get some pics???

Thanks for the advice. The car's interstate and i'm having difficulty finding a reliable shop to look at it in time (the owner is frequently away for work). I spoke to the guys at one of, or probably the most renound, GTR workshop in my state, and they said not to look into the 110psi too much as long as the pressure was roughly the same for all cylinders. They also told me that a figure of 110psi is very plausible for an engine that is rarely driven (as is the case with this car), or an engine that is tested cold etc. So i've been told to ultimately go with gut instincts and ignore the compression test results (the leak-down test result was also less than 10% which is more important). I've also been advised to have the car run on a dyno to really see how healthy the engine is.....Oh ye, and I had the car put on a hoist so I could check the legitimacy of the N1 block. It's definitely stamped 24U

Hi everyone, I have a question which may seem completely idiotic, but I was wondering roughly what pressures should show on a compresison test for an N1 engine, or even just the standard rb26? I was looking into buying a GTR with a swapped N1 block (that was bought brand new) and i asked the owner to do a compresison test. He told me that compression across all cylinders was about 110psi, and that that was close to what it made out of the factory!!! Last time i knew anything 110psi was indicative of serious trouble! Yes i'm aware that the main point of a compression test is to check that pressure across all cylinders is roughly the same (which it was in this case),but isn't 110 psi across all cylinders too low? Any ideas?? What are your thoughts? what should i be expecting for a 'clean' N1 block with only 40,000 genuine kays on it?

I'm getting neither. Both the boost bar graph and the screen with the lone boost guage are showing nothing when not working or something when they do

Oh I thought it might just be mine. I'm having the same problem. I recently bought a new MFD because my old one had a line down the LCD display. Once it was installed the boost gauge on it invariably worked. It ALWAYS worked when the old one was hooked up, now sometimes it works and shows boost normally and the rest of the time the boost gauge just has nothing on it at all??? Is thais what's happening with you too Terry?