533 RYC

Correct Hugh, it would be worth pressure testing it though, just incase it's not the head gasket. I have read "Where does the water go". What did your plugs look like when you removed them? For an even compression test & doesn't run rough, it sort of doesn't add up.

Those numbers are a smidgen low, but even. Before you rip the head off, have you pressure tested the cooling system?

Sorry, can't help with the loom. I don't expect you can use much of the auto loom though......

That second ring looks like it could be a back up ring that would sit underneath the circlip, cant be too sure, as I didn't pay too much attention when I did mine. You need a pair of INSIDE circlip pliers, like these: Straight will probably be the go. Just pop the shifter in, put it in third, squeeze the circlip & snap it into the groove. Where the gap sits doesn't matter too much, just make sure you put it in an easy spot to get access to it if you need to! Mine was alittle loose in the groove, so don't stress. Maybe mine was missing the back up ring!!!

Simple then, either vac test the pressure reg with a vacuum pump or prime the fuel system with the vac line removed from the reg & see if fuel comes out.

If this is the case Tim, why is it intermittent? If what you described is the case, then it would happen all the time.

Falcons are known to break the tip of the needle off injectors, creating a constant miss fire & running rich. The AU's also suffered from valve recession & worn guides.......

Buy my S2 RS FOUR S!

Lol, not the sort of head job anybody wants! True about the steam, but it could also come from the power stroke, not just exhaust. Have you done a comp test? Do you have any cross contamination?

Maybe use this as a guide Hugh, hopefully they are the same with the wagons: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/280174-removal-replacement-of-heater-core-skyline-the-right-way-without-removing-the-dash-at-all/?hl=+heater +core

I bought my wagon from an import dealer in QLD. It has no 'mod plate', even though it was QLD rego, just the usual compliance sticker. I had no trouble when I had it blue slipped here (inspector had to request if the new VIN was in the Aus system from QLD transport). RTA/RMS Blacktown was hassle free!

Check this link of a post I created in Forced Induction, particuly the last one: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/442555-building-the-right-combo/

For anybody about to venture into the world of a rebuild, turbo change, intercooler change, or a general increase in power would benefit from understanding it's not just about whacking a bigger turbo on, or winding the boost up! There is a science to it, & here is are some pretty good links, full of information & equations. http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/turbo/turboflow.html Here is a simple calculator if you know your figures: http://www.stealth316.com/2-turbotemp.htm Intercooler sizing write up: http://www.turboneticsinc.com/sites/default/files/AllAboutIntercooling.pdf Hope these help.

The intercoolers most companies market (horizontal flow) are fairly useless for the applications most people use them for. The might be ok IF you are running in excess of 30psi & 150 degrees C. Check this link out, its FULL of equations. This link should be stickied for anyone wanting to create a good combo! http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/turbo/turboflow.html

I was a Ford mechanic for a few years. I've changed 6 TPS's in my time there due to a flatspot, cutting out, running rough. They tend to wear out right on the cruise spot, where it sits most of the time. Check with a multimeter. Unplugged, check resistance from idle to WOT. If connected, probe & check voltage from idle to WOT. In both cases of diagnosis, you'll see zero volts or infinite resistance when you hit the spot.

Nope, just bought a piping kit from ebay out of china. Like this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2-5-INCH-ALUMINUM-TURBO-INTERCOOLER-PIPING-KIT-PIPES-CLAMP-COUPLER-UNIVERSAL-/260882361775?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cbdccedaf I specified black hoses when I ordered it. When I ordered the intercooler, I ordered the 60 degree (#1), the 90 degree (#3) & the 45 degree (#7 in the pics of the guide). As it turns out, the the ones I ordered with the intercooler were 5 layered hose & the china kitted hose was only 3. If I did it again, I'd get all the hoses from the U.S. with the intercooler. The piping kit wasn't barbed on the ends of the pipes, but I didn't see an issue with this as scotchbriting the pipe & painting it black gave it plenty of grip, PLUS I cut my pipe so there was PLENTY inside the hose when fully assembled. Once it was all finished, the piping hardly moved at all, so, no chance of blowing a hose off!! You'll have plenty of pipe & hose left for other projects down the line too!

Oh geez.....

If it was coil packs, it would certainly pull the engine light & code 21 (primary ignition signal). Engine light will also stay on till code is actually cleared. Is the engine light on? Question 1: Does the problem mainly occur in second gear when going for wide open throttle? Question 2: Does it boost ok at 4psi (stock boost level) BELOW 4,000rpm?

Thanks to all for another fantastic SAU event. It was great to catch up & check out heaps of immaculate high quality cars! The pictures are brilliant!

I used one of these in my wagon: http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=207&products_id=208&osCsid=eeaa0b07c62725c35347ccedff7d7964 I was looking for a vertical flow unit for ages. I knew what I wanted & found it here, a complete guide: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/424157-r34-gtt-fmic-with-no-bodywork-cutting/ This is a much better option. Lag is an important consideration before buying. The one I picked is just under twice as big in capacity as the stock one with 2.5'' piping, & I gained 400rpm lag (2,200 rpm - 2,600rpm). Like the cooling pro unit it has 2.5'' inlet/outlet. Understanding why a vertical flow intercooler is better than a horizontal flow requires research, as this would be a very long post to explain! It might have a smaller surface area, BUT, it is 3.5'' thick. It was a no hassle install with NO cutting of the front reinforcement bar or bumper. Very neat & tidy, & even with slimline number plates & black colour, nobody even knows it there !! My next intercooler will be even better, air to water!

Price Drop to 12k

Price Drop to 12k.

7th post down should get you out of trouble for part numbers. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/256272-cv-boot/#entry4849949 Inner boots letting go is not as common as the outer ones.If your doing 1 boot, then I'd recommend doing all 4 & forgetting about them for 10 years. Expect to pay up to 2hrs labour (if the apprentice does it, 3hrs!) if you get all 4 done, if not, then only 1hr. You will probably need to have the front diff topped up aswell, MAKE SURE THEY DO IT! I'd do it for you for a case of beer, but I don't have a vice at home

LOL! THEY'RE OUT THERE..........WAITING

Friggin low lifes! Hope you get it back ok mate!