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Shoota_77

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Everything posted by Shoota_77

  1. Shoota_77
    I'm pretty sure that's how it should go. Unless another hose from the manifold has been connected to the hose that runs around the back of the engine.
  2. Shoota_77
    Only problem I see (if I'm reading it right) is that unless you've joined the hoses at the boost control solenoid then you would have no boost signal to the new solenoid.
  3. Shoota_77
    One common drama with RB's is the vacuum hoses at the back of the engine cracking with age and leaking (on the far right side where it says 'clamp'. Might pay to pull the hoses off under the manifold where they originate from and run a replacement hose straight over the engine to test for a leak in the standard hoses. Worth a try anyway! Although knowing you had your head off recently you may have picked up on that if it was an issue.
  4. Shoota_77
    That's the spirit! Presumably it's only cooked the bearing due to crap in the sytem from the first dramas. It is heartbreaking to have to do it all over again though.
  5. Shoota_77
    What the fark happened there? Lot's of sealant there. Looks old and cruddy too.
  6. Shoota_77
    Interesting... I wasn't too worried about the studs as I presumed when you tighten them they pull up against the top off the threads. I presume bottoming them on something forces them up into position against the top of the thread before you start tightening them. Is that the idea? How tight do you tighten down the studs? I've only ever hand tightened them in the past. I thought that was recommended procedure from ACL? Keen to hear further elaboration on that point! With the water galleries I think I took photos last page of where I've cleaned those up with the die grinder. I need to spend the next week cleaning die grinder filings out of my garage, that shit gets everywhere.
  7. Shoota_77
    Continued operation "Oil, get yo ass back in the sump where you belong" today. I'm making a whole lotta extra work for myself (had to fully disassemble the head again after this round of machining) but hopefully it all pays off in the end. Before (lazy, lazy Nissan)- "That's not a carbide burr, THAT's a carbide burr!- A mountain of shavings later- Getting closer to actually bolting some shit together rather than grinding the arse out of it!
  8. Shoota_77
    Needs vids for confirmation of the awesomeness....
  9. Shoota_77
    Bump! $225 posted for last AFM.
  10. Shoota_77
    Agree. -5's are borderline too big for a 26 but awesome on anything bigger. Mine were a bit laggy on my 26 but can't wait too see what they're like on my 30.
  11. Shoota_77
    Great to see the Lemon rocket back on the road. Sounds like you've got the install down to a fine art! Fingers crossed she's all good from here.
  12. Shoota_77
    One AFM sold. One left.
  13. Shoota_77
    Autobarn sells it too. Might be quicker an easier.
  14. Shoota_77
    Power FC sold pending payment. As new genuine Bosch Z32 AFM's $225 each $400 for both
  15. Shoota_77
    BONK! Price drop on already cheap parts! Power FC and hand controller $550 AFM's $225 each $400 for both $900 for everything.
  16. Shoota_77
    I can't quite make out where that line comes from but if it was set up to flow coolant then no reason why not. What is the "GT mod"? As in GT turbo?
  17. Shoota_77
    He's after a D Jetro, mines the Z32 AFM version.
  18. Shoota_77
    Hi guys, Selling my near new Apexi Super Suction kit that I fit to my car a week before taking it off the road. It's basically brand new just driven from home to tuner, back home and then off the road. The part number for the kit is 538-N061 if you want to look it up. Comes with everything in the kit except AFM wiring. Chasing $400 posted anywhere in Aus. Also have as new Bosch Z32 AFMs as well that I can do as a package. Chasing $800 for Super Suction Kit and AFM's (and plugs) posted in Australia. This is them installed on my car-
  19. Shoota_77
    PM's replied. Will do everything for $950 posted.
  20. Shoota_77
    Been a bit slack lately but finally got around to doing a bit today. Drilled the holes in the main bearing girdle to be able to attach the windage trays- Also put a bit more work into gasket matching the oil galleries in the block. I'll do the head next, it needs a huge amount taken out of it. It's sooo rough I'm surprised. It's like they just drilled a few holes next to each other and hoped for the best! Shoody work by Nissan on a brand new part.
  21. Shoota_77
    Hey guys, changing computer and going MAP sensors so selling the gear as per title. The Power FC comes with hand controller. All in good condition. Hoping to avoid any stuffing around as this is a bloody cheap price! Chasing $600. Z32 AFM's are almost brand new. I put them on my car, drove it to the tuners, drove it home then I popped an oil pump so they've done 60kms on the road plus a bit of dyno time. Chasing $250 each or both for $450. I'm in Shepparton (country Vic) so most likely will require postage. Make postage $15 per part to anywhere in Australia. If you need photos either google (!!!) or PM me your mobile # and I'll take some photos when I get a chance. Cheers, Ewan.
  22. Shoota_77
    I couldn't track one down here. It's cheaper with pricey post than most available here! Pain if you're in a hurry though.
  23. Shoota_77
    Nope, no jokes.... You don't use a sledgey!!! The key word there was 'light' hit just in case you missed it!
  24. Shoota_77
    I bought this one, works well- http://bit.ly/17xcnp1
  25. Shoota_77
    While you're at it, remove the cams completely then you'll be able to see if any valves are stuck down (they often stick when bent). Another test is removing the buckets and giving the tip of the valve a light hit with a hammer (and punch to contact just the valve tip) You can tell the difference with a bent valve as they don't snap shut as nicely as a good one. Other than that, hope for the best!
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