Shoota_77
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Everything posted by Shoota_77
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Wow, rant..... -
Probably would have been an awesome idea to ask BEFORE you put down the deposit!! I've got their sump adapter and seems very well made. A whole motor is a whole different story though. Why have they stopped building engines I wonder???
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You don't have to take that end of the tie rod off. Just undo it from the inner connections. Back the lock nut right off on the adjuster and that should give you enough thread to undo the knuckle off the rack without touching the other end.
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Can you please explain what you mean by the "difference in the quench was noticeable"? Providing you're using the same thickness gaskets, quench measurements should not be changed. You must be good if you can feel a quench difference!
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No. It might take a bit of load off the tie rod end when you're undoing it but it won't cause any dramas doing it jacked up. However in saying that, most suspension components should be tightened up with the car sitting as close to normal ride height as possible (wheels/suspension carrying the load). It's more of an issue with rubber bushes as they will twist and bind up a bit if you fully tighten them before lowering the car onto the wheels. You should assemble the parts with the bolts loosely tightened then lower the car onto blocks under the wheels or put the jack stands under the rear arms so the suspension is bearing the load (this is done so you can still get under the car!) and then tighten everything up to the correct torque. Drop it down onto the ground and should be all good.
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There's some incredibly good rust removing compounds available for surface rust. 3M do a good product, there's another one I cant remember the brand name but Super Cheap sell it (in a small black plastic container with a handle on top, like a mini oil container). You put the compound on the rusty bit, leave it for 10 minutes, wipe it off with prepsol (oil and wax remover) then with a damp cloth. Repeat if needed. Provided the rust isn't too deep it works awesome. I did a fair few spots in my car (plenum chamber near bonnet hinges, under the boot seal and behind the inner guard liner. Came up pretty good. Provided you either paint it, treat with a rust inhibitor or fish oil, it should keep the rust away in future. It's a constant battle!
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Depends on your paint skills and expected results! If it's say in the engine bay or under the boot lid and you're not too fussed about a factory appearance then definately do it yourself. If it's part of a large panel (around rear window or some other fiddly bit) then I would probably take it to a good panel beater that will cut it out and repair it properly, not just bog over the top of the rust and repaint it. Again if it's not too bad you may be able to do the prep work yourself and just get it repainted by someone else. Might save you a fair bit of cash that way. If you've got a welder it's surprising what you can do. I've welded a fair few sections into my Datsun and it is surprising what result you can get with some patience and steady hands.
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$200 posted for last AFM.
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Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift
Shoota_77 replied to Sydneykid's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I agree with the above. This is my pretty picture I just made. With the hoses coming from the rockers you can either do two hoses if you have enough inlets on your catch can or or like Kiwi says you can run one hose (on mine I joined the two together with a tee piece and ran one hose off the middle outlet of the tee to the catch can. -
You would hope that Tomei would be working off the fact that a Tomei pump would perfectly suited to a Tomei pump but it's very possibly not! It's definately something that needs to be checked. The machinist should have asked for your oil pump or at very least the inner gear so they could check the clearance onto the crank. Not that there's much you can do about it if it's out of whack other than weld up the crank and resize it or grind the snout off and fit a collar.
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Which brand crank collar Daniel? I bought an Aussie supplied collar (brand witheld for defamation avoidance!) and the clearance to the Reimax gears was huge! When I say huge I'm talking 9-10 thou! I contacted the seller and was told it "matches manufacturers specs" which was a load of shit. It was a lot smaller in diameter when measured across the drive faces and the overall diameter. I ordered a Jun collar to try and it was perfect. Clearance was around 3 or 4 thou from memory. The Reimax gears are fine from my experience, it's the collars that can vary.
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It's a GT-R, you definitely will have to take the head off again...
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LOL at "the red headed step child of Nissan". Hey, my fat arsed bitch appeals to me... Hurtful talk!
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I've got one. $40 express post you should get it by Wednesday. Let me know.
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Shoota's R33 GT-R RB30/26
Shoota_77 replied to Shoota_77's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Done f. all lately. Finally got around to putting in the crank and torqueing it all up today- Tested end float- 3 thou end float so well within specs- I also spent another three hours porting the head. Not going crazy taking out heaps of material, just making everything sure everything flows nicely. Removed all steps and rough bits in the ports. Also finished port matching the exhaust manifold to the head. Tossing up whether or not I ceramic coat the manifolds and dumps. Probably should but it's more money..... Does it ever end? -
Off to a good start! All 3 awesome cars! So is the 33 in the last picture, that's f'ing hot!
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All sold, all paid for. Will post out Monday/Tuesday. Thanks guys.
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Aren't big ends supposed to be a fraction tighter than mains? I'd need to recheck the figures in the book but pretty sure they are...
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Everything sold but all pending payment at this point.
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I don't see the connection?? Just because your head gasket blows doesn't mean it was about to pop a piston or smash the rings instead.
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Get a Cometic multi layer steel. They have multiple thickness options and are very well priced. You should get one around the $200-$250 mark.
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ATI balancer sold pending payment. Catch can sold pending payment.
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I would tend to agree by looking at the design. Disc designers are a lot smarter than me however... I guess it must act as a vacuum by creating a low pressure zone outside the vanes which draws the hot air out from the centre of the disc outwards. Makes sense in that it evacuates the hot air and dust away from the centre of the disc.
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Yeah mate, my car is a 33 GT-R. I'll PM you.
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ATI Balancer sold pending payment.
