Shoota_77

Pistons 100%. Shot peen the rods and like you say ARP rod bolts. RBs will blow up a lot of other things before rods let go. Spend your $$$ on a good set of custom slugs.

Good on you for having the balls to respond Brad. I don't think anyone has every questioned the quality of your work but the one thing that has hurt you is poor communication. I know it's a pain in the arse as it's highly unproductive but the unfortunate reality is when people are paying you money up front, they need to get feedback that their money is in good hands or they start to get nervous. Mate put on a part time worker at least! Get a new mother that just wants to work 5 hours a day to come in a give every customer a quick email to say "hi, just letting you know that we're 2 weeks away from starting your surge tank" or "We've built the cage just waiting on....." Mate it would make such a huge difference to your business. It frees you up to do the amazing work that we all know you're capable of and keeps all of your customers happy at the same time. Good luck with it all, I do hope you can win back over a lot of disappointed customers.

Ask Gerg_31 (I think that's his name) I would bet that whilst his non turbo'd, open throttle bodied RB26 engines he was playing with would have made only average power, they would sound much like the amazing Hakosuka with the right exhaust. Turbo's are an unfortunate muffler of raw engine sound. They take the individual pulsations out to a large degree. There is some merit to the "sounds better goes better" ideology. I put an exhaust on my VL when I was 19, probably made zero more power but f#$k I felt fast! I'll trade in my noise for power anyday however. Show with no go only tingles in your balls for so long....

Received my item yesterday. Good guy to deal with!

I got my kit today. Everything is in separate, clearly labelled bags. Highly recommend it! Top guy to deal with, good communication and good quality bolts, nuts and washers (shiny!).

He's representing Shepparton a lot better than me...

Doesn't sound good. The problem is and will most likely continue to be the fact that it's only the one cylinder that's significantly lower. It's just not likely to catch up unfortunately. It wouldn't hurt to go back to mineral oil for say 5000kms but I think it's too late because of the bore glaze. There's probably not enough left of the hone marks to bed the rings in any further. Anything is worth trying though! In reality all of your comp results are low. I would have thought they should be all around the 160-165 psi mark on a run in engine? As Piggaz is alluding to above I just don't think you gave it a hard enough time in the run in process. You've gotta hit it with as much boost as you can as early as possible which forced the rings out hard against the cylinder walls and wears the rings in super quick before the glazing commences.

To fix it all you need to do is put a scoop of sand in that cylinder.... Joke. It's a worry, I can't imagine that it will get much better of it's own acord. It's probably not likely to get any worse in terms of relative to the rest of the cylinders unless there is some other drama. Were your first few oil changes mineral oil? What was your run in procedure? There's also a possibility it's something other than the rings (valve not seated properly or burnt??). It's not bad enough that you would bother doing anything about it I wouldn't have thought. Just monitor it and make sure it doesn't get any worse (relatively). For your sake I hope it just magically beds in all of the a sudden but wouldn't count on it. The first 15 minutes of run time are just so important. Once the bores are glazed it takes a long time to see any changes in sealing occuring.

Sick!!! I wanna here the thing dumping out of the gate at full noise! Where you at? Northern States? Canada? Nice fab work anyway, I agree with the above, full build thread required!

More comp, more valves, more turbo, more RON. Fixed! You're welcome.

Tell them you're taking it to Ken Muston Automotive (where I work here in Shepp) and you'll be right! "I promise officer, they're really good there!"

Just a tip for when you put it back on, get a tube of anti seize and smear it on the crank nose and inside the gear. It's a moly based greese that doesn't dry up. Makes life a lot easier next time!

No, you'll still need to get the pickup modified or it will sit 10mm too high in the sump. The adapter spaces the sump down 10mm regardless of what sump you use.

I agree. My car has been off the road for 12 months now building my 30. Leave the 26 in until the 30 is ready to bang in. I did the same as what you're proposing- buying a built 30 assuming I could whack it straight in and away I go. Mine was a lump of shit and I had to start completely from scratch. Don't waste your time unless you're 100% on the engine you're buying. If you don't have a young family and other committments then you'll bowl it over a lot quicker than what I will!

To do the complete oil fix properly it's a head off job anyway. One of the best things you can do is improve the head oil returns to the sump. I reckon I took about 10mm out of my head around each of the 2 main holes, they're so much smaller than the galleries in the block.. Nissan really did do a shit job at the factory of finishing off the head.

Yep. The one that confused itself with a Hilux on the (off the!) track....

Boo!! I was shattered last time when I rocked up to see only one (Gold 33 GTS-T) Skyline participating! I think there were a couple of others that were running around in the morning but had finished by the time I got there. Wish mine had an engine.... All this action on my door step but nothing to play with. Should pull out the Datto ute... Lacks horses though...

Wow, Skylines were only just invented from whence this post was dredged up from...

Mate 370kws at the wheels is nothing to laugh at. If it's making good reliable power with good response as it is I'd leave it. One of the reasons I went 30/26 was to make the jump from low 300's to low 400's. For you the jump isn't as big (unless you have a fair crack at it) so that may help in the decision to stay with what you've got. Put half of the money in to your current setup as a (proper) RB30 build will cost you and you've got a pretty amazing engine.

If you're going to do it I wouldn't personally bother with a stock bottom end. Too low in comp. IF you're using it for track you'll want more comp to give you more stick out of the corners. Fine if you're using it for the strip as you can pump in more boostage.

Hopefully you guys bring some Skylines to my town rather than the BRZ/86 invasion of the last meet....

Yes. Due to the pointy nose of the 32 it tends to hit on the bonnet. You'll need to either raise your bonnet (or hack it), lower the subframe, leave off the cam gear cover (I think??) or a combination of those. Don't let that put you off. There should be a fair bit of info on the issues in RB30 conversion thread.

I believe he means that the picture contains the quote AND the response. No visible difference between the two. I could be wrong however!

Dump the dash 9's. The response (provided the engine is built right) would be insanely good but you're going to run out of legs pretty quick. They would be brilliant on a car in a motakhana or tight hill climb but not much chop on an open flowing track with minimal tight slow corners to blast out of. Get a set of -5's or HKS 2530's (I think that's the right number) which are similar in size and will easily get you 400kw on a well built engine with all the other correct supporting mods. As for your other option of running a single there's a lot of great options nowadays that will still give you great response but a huge topend, especially on a bigger bottom end that will spool a big single up quicker.

Yep, sump adapter and modified pickup (or run external pickup). There's other fitment issues with getting a 30 into an R32 but that's nothing to do with the engine itself!