Shoota_77

Looks like it bump steers like a mofo! What's with the manual stick AND the tiptronic? Wierd.... Sounds like he's running 044's too.... Looks more painful than enjoyable that's for sure!

Was the 68000km figure derived from an advanced mathematical equation? That's a very specific number to choose! I call bullshit if there are more than 20 32 GT-R's in Australia with a legitimate "68000kms" on them. At a guess I would say most rebuilds occur due to shattered oil pumps so maybe they've got around a 70k life span on a standard pump. Or if it's an N1 pump about 5000kms!

Easiest is just to swap the headlights over. Recommend that when they cut the looms for you they rejoin it with a connector rather than soldering the wires so you can just change the lights back over, put a matching connector on the Xenons then all done. MAKE SURE THEY GIVE YOU ALL THE PARTS BACK (including looms and plugs)!!! I'm sure they'd love to flog off the Xenons on you....

Awesome! VTEC yo! That'd be heaps of fun! 750kgs with that in it would be a blast!

Awesome, can't wait to see vids of skids. Pics of Datto 1200?

Is the noise when you're just sitting there and slowly turning lock to lock or do you have to be moving?

Awesome, love the welch plug caps! I'm glad it's you wearing the cost of all this, dammmmmm! I'd be looking for a new wife if I spent that much on mine! So is this up to date now or are you trickle feeding the process and it's now all finished? It reads like at least some of it was past tense. Either way, awesome to see such an investment in a car, love it!

Do some research on here first BEFORE you buy anything otherwise you'll just be wasting money. Check the other RB30 threads on turbos and see what power people are making with certain turbos and choose that way, A mate of a mate offloading a turbo is a bit risky unless you know what it is. When you say bigger compressor wheel, bigger than what?

Still school holidays still on so not sure if 9 year old buuuuuuuuuuuuuutttt........ I agree with mr mechanic, piss it off and get a turbo that is actually designed for a 3.0L PETROL engine as opposed to a 9.0L DIESEL engine! Buy a ching lingalong copy turbo off ebay and you'll be a lot better off.

Crap quality Iphone video required to aid diagnosis!

Yeah I'd be in for it. Presuming fibreglass at that price. Plastic would be well more than double that I'd have thought if even available.

I would have thought the RIPS sump would have had a) enough capacity and b) decent enough baffling to prevent that? 9 litres or so of oil is a huge amount of oil in an engine. I would definitely put an Accusump on at least as a bit of a patch up for now as it will potentially save your engine when you do get oil surge. It will only be a patch up to a degree. If the oil returns in the head to the sump weren't done (enlarged) when the engine was built then it it always going to be a battle to get the oil back to the sump. With your catch can the issue would be more the setup of the lines rather than the can itself. Make sure it's plumbed correctly. Rocker cover baffles will definitely slow the rate of oil getting into your catch can and might give you a bit more track time before the oil level gets low enough to get surge. My recommendation- Accusump for now to help your engine live a bit longer then when the engine comes out next time (inevitable if you're seeing the oil light a bit!) then get everything else sorted (head oil returns, restrictors (no mention of if this was done?), plus all other recommendations out of the Oil Control thread.

She's in but hasn't been touched apart from moving it out of the way to vaccuum under it! Hell yeah, it's a perfect fit. When I bought it I asked the guy over the phone how tall it was. He said "about 3.6m I think", I'm thinking "perfect!". I got it home (from 3 hours away where I picked it up), stood it up in the shed and it only just fit in the very peak of my shed which is 4 metres. Dickhead obviously can't read a tape measure..... Thank god it happens to be one of the very few hoists around that has an adjustment in the uprights which dropped it down about a foot. I just have to get the cables shortened which is a lot cheaper than having to lift the height of my shed which is what I thought I was going to have to do! It now fits perfectly and thankfully due to the height of the Skyline it'll still lift to full height without topping out. I won't be able to put SUVS or taller cars up to full height but at least the Skyline and Datto ute will be fine!

Not really Skyline related but will help in the long run (!!) got my hoist erected (not wired and bolted down yet) and half of the shed lights put up and dodgy home electrician wired for now. I've run the power to the shed but need to get an eleccy in to wire up a board and connect it to the hoist. As you can see the shed is still a bloody mess but getting there.

f**k me, I'm out.... You're gunna hurt my brain with all that 'math'ematics....

You're too humble but that's up to you!! If you had the time and inclination it would be brilliant to have brackets made that suit all of the more common balancers- Ross, ATI, etc. Most of the common balancers can be ordered with the trigger wheel as an option so they could be made to suit that. A lot easier to bolt on a trigger wheel than having to machine slots into a $700 balancer! Anyway, good job on giving back to the SAU community, you're a top bloke for it!

Too cheap, mate you're more than entitled to add some intellectual property value into them, nobody should be expected to put the work into designing something without making a return! You've put the effort in, reward yourself at least a little!

They're right about the higher iron content causing brake noise. The more aggressive racing brakes are noisy as faark especially when cold. Generally they chew the shit out of rotors too but that's the compromise of the stopping power required to pull up the big heavy beast! There are some lubricants that go between the pads and the piston and the pad guides that can help with noise but they need replenishing pretty often as the extreme heat in brakes dries the lube pretty quick. Back when VT Commodore came out (no comparison I know!) but they had bad brake noise, disc wear and disc warping, we used to glue the pad to the piston to stop it moving and causing noise. The original pads were also very high iron content, they released a revised pad with a lot less iron again as a noise/wear/heat reduction.

I love seeing home grown innovation! Great work on having a crack at it Murrayis! If you do end up selling it I'm sure you'll sell a bucket load of them! Huzqld whilst looking slightly agricultural I'm sure yours works perfect too, good job! Now hurry up and get a kit on the market you blokes before I convince myself to buy the Ross kit @ $2000!

They look terrible. Sell them to me for half what you paid and be grateful...... I think the black looks best on the lighter colours. Polished would look good or alternately a light matte grey would look different.

Sorry to offend..... When I say crap I mean collectively as a package I believe there are better options for not much more money. This is totally in my opinion based on having had both Trust and a modified sump, feel free to have your own. My thoughts are why spend $450 on the Trust extension, plus another $250-300 (??) on getting a good welder to weld it on without warping the sump when for another $200-$400 you can get a fully custom sump with worthwhile volume gains and improvements to oil movement without lowering your ground clearance. At the end of the day you choose what works best for you.

Yep, Bob's got it right. Racefab in NZ. Awesome workmanship and Rob is a lovely guy to deal with. Only drama I had was NZ Post lost my sump when I sent it over. It eventually turned up but took a while. Good thing about custom is you can put as many different drain points, breathers whatever you like in. I bought an engine that came with a Trust sump extension on it and they're crap, wouldn't even contemplate it nowadays!

I was going to fit a locally sourced crank collar for my 30 build and it was something crazy like 9 thou clearance to the pump ring from memory. The JUN collar I got to replace it was only about 4 thou I believe. What is yours measuring at?

More you spend, less you drive. Not always but mainly!

Won't take too long to rip the bottom end apart and reassemble. I'd just hate to bolt it all together, throw it in and spin a bearing in 6 months due to a bit of crap that got in it during moving house and storage. My shed is far from pristine storage conditions so better off starting fresh knowing it's perfectly clean. Another few months of landscaping and lets hope I can get stuck into it again. I've started to looking at parts to buy so I must be getting excited about it again! Actually not that I ever really stopped looking for parts to buy, just the excuses I gave myself NOT to buy stuff seem to be dwindling!