Shoota_77

I love seeing home grown innovation! Great work on having a crack at it Murrayis! If you do end up selling it I'm sure you'll sell a bucket load of them! Huzqld whilst looking slightly agricultural I'm sure yours works perfect too, good job! Now hurry up and get a kit on the market you blokes before I convince myself to buy the Ross kit @ $2000!

They look terrible. Sell them to me for half what you paid and be grateful...... I think the black looks best on the lighter colours. Polished would look good or alternately a light matte grey would look different.

Sorry to offend..... When I say crap I mean collectively as a package I believe there are better options for not much more money. This is totally in my opinion based on having had both Trust and a modified sump, feel free to have your own. My thoughts are why spend $450 on the Trust extension, plus another $250-300 (??) on getting a good welder to weld it on without warping the sump when for another $200-$400 you can get a fully custom sump with worthwhile volume gains and improvements to oil movement without lowering your ground clearance. At the end of the day you choose what works best for you.

Yep, Bob's got it right. Racefab in NZ. Awesome workmanship and Rob is a lovely guy to deal with. Only drama I had was NZ Post lost my sump when I sent it over. It eventually turned up but took a while. Good thing about custom is you can put as many different drain points, breathers whatever you like in. I bought an engine that came with a Trust sump extension on it and they're crap, wouldn't even contemplate it nowadays!

I was going to fit a locally sourced crank collar for my 30 build and it was something crazy like 9 thou clearance to the pump ring from memory. The JUN collar I got to replace it was only about 4 thou I believe. What is yours measuring at?

More you spend, less you drive. Not always but mainly!

Won't take too long to rip the bottom end apart and reassemble. I'd just hate to bolt it all together, throw it in and spin a bearing in 6 months due to a bit of crap that got in it during moving house and storage. My shed is far from pristine storage conditions so better off starting fresh knowing it's perfectly clean. Another few months of landscaping and lets hope I can get stuck into it again. I've started to looking at parts to buy so I must be getting excited about it again! Actually not that I ever really stopped looking for parts to buy, just the excuses I gave myself NOT to buy stuff seem to be dwindling!

Thought I'd better do one more post this year seeing the last one was in January! Crazy year, too f**king busy to even think about the car. Built big arse shed (14X8 metres so fits 4 cars easily) myself which turned into a lengthy and testing process! Bought 2 post hoist for shed, waiting to connect power to the shed to get it set up. Built (not me personally!) new house. Spend every spare second of non work time trying to get gardens in some sort of neat condition (but in reality done f**kall really). Got a promotion at work so now have even less time to actually spend it playing with the car. I'm going to strip what I've done of the engine back down and start all over again. Hopefully next year will be better....

The old "while the engine is out" scenario..... I said that about 2 years ago! Mine went along the lines of "while the engine is out I may as well build an RB30...." what a mistake that was! Keen to see how it all progresses, well written too! A little bit of grammar and story goes a long way to making a build thread a good read! Best of luck.

Most of it will be perfect but you'll be holding yourself back with a 3" exhaust. Go 4" while you're at it. 3 Litre will flow a lot more air than the 2.6L. Should be good for 400 kw's with that setup on E85 if everything is done properly.

Your car any quicker at Winton with the 2.8L Sam?

Generally the drama is where the old seal was it will have put a groove into the crank. If you put the new seal in just the wrong spot or a tiny bit off centre it will be over the groove and possibly leak. There's two ways to avoid it. Firstly put the new seal in shallower by a mm as in don't insert it into the rear main housing as far. This will keep the sealing lip away from the groove. Secondly you can put a "speedy sleeve" on the crank which is a thin sliver of metal that presses over the seal face and gives a brand new fresh surface to seal on. Either way will work fine.

Can race Lehmo!

Pays to have pint sized little person hands and more patience than a nursing home.......

Few pics from Show and Shine-

Run your car as lean as fu(K for a few hours at full noise, that'll burn the poofter out! Might even give you better combustion chamber to sump breathing too!

I've just put a tensioner on either side with mine. Hoping that is enough to be able to maintain tension either side of the crank. I wanted to try another tensioner (3 total) at some point in the belt but doesn't seem to be room. Time will tell if it works ok.

As Ben says it leads to a very long section of unsupported belt. Under normal circumstances you probably won't notice anything but if you're pushing for big power you might end up with bad timing fluctuation due to the flapping belt. A Ross Balancer and Crank/Cam sensor setup may fix this though. For a measly couple of grand....

I think they're RPM Signal and Speed Signal. I bought one second hand and had real dramas getting mine hooked up... Here's a link to the manual - http://www.blitzpowerusa.com/techsupport/pdf/sbc_i-color.pdf

The starter could be an issue. It might be 'poling' I think we used to call it where the starter directly connects + and - internally and draws huge current, enough to drop voltage under 12V which takes out some of the systems required to start the engine (injectors, coils, computer etc can cease to operate under 12v's). Do a voltage current draw test to see how much current draw there is when cranking. If it's super high I would first check the main terminal to the starter. If that's fine I would then presume you have an internal issue in the starter. Or, it might have not one fu(king thing to do with the starter.....

It is when you own a GT-R!!!!!!!!

Nice looking car Nick. They do look great in nice clean white. Each to their own but I'd be doing forgies waaaaaay before rods. If you're not chasing big power (which if you're going -7's you're obviously not) then forgies aren't mandatory but for the extra few hundred dollars, why wouldn't you?? You're better off over building than under doing it.

Going back to the start, in addition to disconnecting the coils, pull the efi relay or disconnect your injectors as well as it will still pump fuel into the cylinders. That fuel ends up on the oil and dilutes it which is obviously not a good thing. And yes, remove the spark plugs as it will crank over at twice the speed without them.

If you can afford it, do it. It's a great safe guard just to keep an eye on things (if you've got a display for it). Anything that helps with the ECU's ability to maintain the right AFRs is a good thing too.

Sounds balls Brad. Should be great fun. Interested to see how the big precision goes on a 30 bottom end. What power range do they quote it as having? Are you going to convert it back to AWD or leave it as is? All the best, look forward to seeing how it comes together.