Shoota_77

The Axis look terrible. I'd be happy to take them off your hands! Just kidding, the Axis look awesome! The 34 GTR wheels would look better in a different colour on a silver car I think?

I looked his clutch up and his is for an R34. I don't think they're compatible with 33's unless someone knows otherwise???

Yeah thanks Mat, I've been keeping an eye on the for sale thread. Most available at the moment are push style unfortunately.....

No probs, I'll definately keep it in mind thanks Mike.

Sorry, should have mentioned that the car is making 315kw at the wheels so needs to be a pretty decent clutch. Prefer to go twin plate otherwise I'll probably stick with my current clutch but whack a new plate in it. Cheers.

Hey guys, had intended to buy a new Nismo Coppwermix twin plate but funds have rapidly evaporated so just looking to put something a bit cheaper in for now while I've got the engine out replacing a smashed oil pump (no really, on an RB26 I hear you say? That's rare.). Yes, I know it will probably cost me in the long run but can't justify a big spend at the moment. Ideally a secondhand Coppermix would be perfect but they're probably a bit new to be many around. I've got an unknown brand uprated clutch in it at the moment could be Jim Berry or similar (has 499 written on it if that narrows it down??) so the alternative is just putting a new friction plate in it for now and upgrading properly later. But anyway, let me know what you have! Thanks.

Pictures of the GTR steering wheel-

I had good success with an apartment in Kensington a few years back. They''ve held their value pretty well but softened a little. Very likely it'll have more room to grow in the near future. Footscray HAS TO boom at some point. Has inflated but still has massive room to grow. Seddon has, Footscray has to! That's my insignificant input!

Is that the biggest piss take of all time or what? Who could seriously think that it looks even remotely good? Makes me hungry though....

A few things sold. Open to offers on individual bits or the whole thing. I'll also pay anyone here $150 as a finders fee if you put me in touch with anyone that buys the engine. Engine $2200 Trans $500 Power FC $SOLD OS Giken Super Single Clutch $500 SR20 Wiring Loom $250 Standard Computer $150 T28 S/less Dump Pipe $SOLD Braided T28 Turbo lines $SOLD SR20DET Tailshaft $50 Intercooler $250 Cheers.

HAS he ruled out a stroker?? Not trying to argue with you but he just says "standard bore size" which obviously leaves the door open for a longer stroke size?? It's pretty amazing power if it is all standard but seems to be pretty solid power with fairly standard upgrades and -7's.

Try some Prepsol (Wax and Grease Remover) to start with, then as above polish. If it's thick then you can try to scrape it off with an icy pole stick. Won't scratch the paint but should get it off. Then polish it after.

You put them in the oven for long enough to melt the sealer between the housing and the glass. Obviously not too long that the housing melts! Hopefully some of the other guys can actually give you a time frame and temperature. Or, trial and error of the extremely cautious variety!

Can we share the results boys? I'd be interested to know too.

You can buy two different sizes of spray can Satin White from Supercheap. I think the brand is Powerplus but could be wrong. It's about $22 for the bigger can.

A few extra bit in addition to above- Genuine mats, pretty good condition, would come up good with a clean $50 Brand new 80mm throttle body with weld on adapter (was purchased for SR20 but will work on other cars $150. Brand new 3" Weld in high flow cat 100 cell. $175.

Couple of things left if anyone is interested- K&N M's Intake Piping. Probably need new filters. Comes with 2X genuine Jecs air flow sensors and plugs. $75. Original GT-R Steering Wheel. Exceleent condition for age, tiny bit of roughening on top. $125. Original GT-R Fuel Pump. Worked perfectly. $50. Orignal GT-R Cam Gears. No signs of wear. $10. Z32 Air Flow Sensor Plug. New plug, original wiring. $10. Ski chains for 14-18" Wheels. See picture for exact sizes they fit. Why hire?? $50. FREE!!! Orignal Radiator. No leaks but probably needs a flush. $$Postage Only.

Please don't take this the wrong way but I can't believe it's taken 22 pages to get to this point! Should be a weapon once it's done. Looks sexy too! Can't wait to see some videos. I'm at the crossroads of doing a dirty 30 or stroking the 26 so your results may make a difference. Good luck once you hit the dyno!

I agree, you might get just the plate for that price but not plate, bolts, modified pickup, etc. If I'm wrong please supply the link!

Alarm, alarm, alarm!!! Boys we need to take a bit of responsibility ourselves as you do have to realise that our cars are highly attractive to lowlife peasant fu<kwits so you gotta put an alarm on it! I'm even going so far as to put 2 GPS trackers in mine. 1 in the front, 1 in the back so if they're smart enough to find one hopefully they think that's it! You can get them off Ebay for about $100 for a really good one that has live tracking via computer or smart phone. A $400 alarm (with immobilser) and $200 worth of GPS trackers are a small price to pay to protect our highly sought after cars IMO. I'm so paranoid about mine that I even check to make sure no one's following me when I turn off the main road! Then like Novus above I've got a 4 foot negotiator bar and massive Maglight just inside the door to beat the shit out of anyone that still thinks it's worth trying! I'll keep an eye out too but don't like your chances.....

Intercooler-

Engine $2200 Trans $500 dibs pending Power FC $750 dibs pending OS Giken Super Single Clutch $500 SR20 Wiring Loom $250 Standard Computer $150 T28 S/less Dump Pipe $80 dibs pending Braided T28 Turbo lines $100 SR20DET Tailshaft $50 Intercooler $250 Semi flexible on some things (mainly for multiple items). It's all selling for a lot less than I bought them for individually. Will be advertised elsewhere so first in best dressed.

You'll only need forgies if you're chasing some big power (300ish at the wheels). You're probably best waiting until the donk needs a rebuild before you go to that expense. Don't let me stop you but you're looking at a sizeable bill even if you can do it yourself. Personally I'd work up to it. Mine came with them so happy days! Could be worth looking for one that has already had engine work. What has been spent on top of the value of the car will be waaaay less than what it would cost you to get done.

Ok, I will live to regret this but you gotta live for the moment! I'm planning on hopefully building an RB30/26 setup for my Skyline so need to free up some coin. I thought I''d list in on here if someone has a side project or may know someone into 200''s/Silvias. I'm seeling my 58000km S14 Series II SR20DET engine that I was going to go in one of my Datsun 1200 Utes. It comes with the following- Complete Engine 5 Speed Transmission OS Giken Performance clutch (done around 15000kms) Wiring loom Factory computer Power FC computer and controller. New Stainless (sexy!) turbo manifold (and standard as well) New Stainless dump pipe New Maddat crossmember for Datsun 1200 and engine mounts (no Maddat trans mount, just standard S14 mount) New manifold stud kit Standard T28 Turbo Braided oil/coolant lines for turbo Tailshaft (for modifying to suit recipient vehicle). I can't think if there is anything else. I'm chasing around $4000 in total. All up it's cost me about $5500 (Engine and trans $3000, Power FC $1000, OS Giken $1000, extras $500. The cheapest one on Ebay is $2500 with no trans, wiring, computer, etc, etc! Feel free to ask any questions.

Now I'm confused... The turbo you use won't change your comp ratio. Comp ratio is a mechanical thing only modified by structural changes to head shape, piston shape, deck height, etc. If what you're asking is "When you put on a bigger turbo will it cause comp ratio issues (pinging)" then yes, correct. The higher the static comp ratio, generally the less boost you can pump in without detonation issues. Unless of course you up the type of juice you're using to overcome these issues (100+ octane or E85 which is a more stable fuel under high compression). Sometimes the shape of the piston and combustion chamber can affect this too. Sharp edges that get super hot can cause pre combustion too. Is that what you're getting at?