Shoota_77

I play Hardcore only (once you can) so I don't mind the one shot kill thing.... But in non hardcore I could see how it would be annoying. I watched a Youtube video and they were saying they made it a lot harder to quick scope so interested to hear that there seems to be more doing it.

I had my first go tonight, I like it! I find you spawn into the action straight away. You can't presume you'll have to run to the action, you're in it! I like the physics of it, seems to move well. Played the Battlefield beta and was disappointed.... Offers SOOOOOO much and BF just never quite delivers for me. I've ordered a Sex Box One with COD, Forza 5 and Watch Dogs (when it eventually makes it). See what COD is like on that, better be amazing...

Sounds fair to me, that's quite a shunt!

I'll be extremely keen to see the results of this as it's near identical to my build apart from the crank trigger. That and the fact that this one is actually alive not hanging out in the shed....

Same lifters unless the cam has a smaller base circle than the standard cams. You'll need to find the cam specs first. You will need to check your valve clearance after replacing the cam.

Beautiful work on the exhaust. Seems to step down a fair bit into the cat/decat? Fark it's gunna sound insane with those twin gates screaming!

Big job mate. Engine out unfortunately. As I alluded to above you're probably better off waiting till it pops itself. You just need to be on the ball that when your oil light comes on you switch it off immediately! I was lucky and turned mine off straight away. Pump was smashed to bits but did zero damage to the engine. Some pumps will crack the outer pump ring but not destroy themselves so there is a drop off of oil pressure which can lead to engine failure in a big bad way.

With the oil pump it's pretty hard with the engine in the car. If you removed the balancer and front covers (as if you were doing a timing belt) it would be easier. Genuine (standard and N1 pumps) should just have a Nissan branding on the bottom left corner. Some of the other branded pumps will have the brand stamped or painted onto the oil outlet tube that runs to the right from the centre of the pump. The Tomei pumps have "Umeda" cast into the intake side of the pump and have a different looking outlet tube (right side) than the others. That's what mine has and is supposedly the toughest out there but there have been a couple of breakages still. Presumably it was a pretty standard rebuilt by the sounds of it so I would presume standard or N1 pump. Either way I would put a set of billet gears in it but you may just choose to wait until it lets go (you might get heaps of life out of it still yet if running at the power level you're indicating). 270kw should be totally fine on a relatively standard bottom end but it'll depend what you use it for. Daily driver with the odd rev, fine. Tracking it without all the other oil control and cooling mods done then will be a ticking time bomb. Good luck!

Che?

At least it's not a For Sale ad like some of the recent efforts..... He's at least offering some constructive information!

Luke that is one filthy engine bay! Get some degreaser on that shit! Good work though, nice write up and good piccies!

Why stay standard? Perfect opportunity to whack in a set of 1mm oversized valves. You're obviously chasing every last bit of power while you're contemplating removing the exhaust humps so why not do the valves while there is a good excuse? Price wise there is very little difference. Even if you can't fit them yourself it's not going to cost that much to get them done professionally.

It's official, I'm shit. Been busy making stuff lately. This (second kid, little sister for the walking, shitting 2 1/2 year old war zone)- And this, slab for my shed on my new block. Doing it all myself so taking a f'ing long time! Had zero idea about concreting before this- On the car front, I've finished the head, weight matched the pistons and rods to within half a gram of each other which is pretty bloody close (0.05% accurate). Then assembled the pistons onto the rods and in the process of putting the rings on the pistons- assembled the This could be finished by the time my kids are teenagers the way I'm going....

Ghey motor, get a better one. It's the yellow hose. Cut it off.

Sounds extremely excessive to me but you're considering it so you've obviously got the money, go for it! That's a whole lotta other shit you can do to your car for that money so I'd rather spend it elsewhere.

They're part of the casting for the exhaust manifold bolts to my understanding. You'd think they'd be able to find a way around that but apparently not...

That's a special function only very few Skylines came out with. It's called Boosted Ultimate Lateral Latent Systematic Holisticly Individual Technology. Otherwise known as B.U.L.L.S.H.I.T!

Provided they're the same bore size and the same thickness rings then it should be fine. I think from memory standard is 1.2, 1.2 for the compression rings. Can't remember oil control.

Found a pic from Powercruise 2013-

The lower you go in theory the worse the geometry will be compounded further by spacing the k frame down. Presumably there is a point it would get to where it starts to cause a problem (vibrations, grabbing, noise, etc). Shows how capable a cv joint can be for there to be no obvious issues.

Any head gasket will be fine. It's only 1.5mm between biggest and smallest bore sizes.

Go higher if you want a nicer streeter with better fuel consumption. You can buy 9:1's off the shelf if not. If you're not in a great hurry you'll get a set off custom CP's with what ever comp you like. I ordered mine with oversized wrist pins, teflon coated skirts and ceramic coated crowns for about $1200. Took about 5 weeks to arrive which wasn't too bad.

Pistons 100%. Shot peen the rods and like you say ARP rod bolts. RBs will blow up a lot of other things before rods let go. Spend your $$$ on a good set of custom slugs.

Good on you for having the balls to respond Brad. I don't think anyone has every questioned the quality of your work but the one thing that has hurt you is poor communication. I know it's a pain in the arse as it's highly unproductive but the unfortunate reality is when people are paying you money up front, they need to get feedback that their money is in good hands or they start to get nervous. Mate put on a part time worker at least! Get a new mother that just wants to work 5 hours a day to come in a give every customer a quick email to say "hi, just letting you know that we're 2 weeks away from starting your surge tank" or "We've built the cage just waiting on....." Mate it would make such a huge difference to your business. It frees you up to do the amazing work that we all know you're capable of and keeps all of your customers happy at the same time. Good luck with it all, I do hope you can win back over a lot of disappointed customers.

Ask Gerg_31 (I think that's his name) I would bet that whilst his non turbo'd, open throttle bodied RB26 engines he was playing with would have made only average power, they would sound much like the amazing Hakosuka with the right exhaust. Turbo's are an unfortunate muffler of raw engine sound. They take the individual pulsations out to a large degree. There is some merit to the "sounds better goes better" ideology. I put an exhaust on my VL when I was 19, probably made zero more power but f#$k I felt fast! I'll trade in my noise for power anyday however. Show with no go only tingles in your balls for so long....