Shoota_77

Buy them individually. Apart from the head gasket buy the cheapest ones you can find. Manifolds are more about the flatness of the mating surfaces as opposed to the quality of the gasket. If they aint flat, a metal gasket is not going to help. In that instance a non mls gasket is better as it will take up a little bit of cleanrance. The metal gaskets are so thin and they have 0 crush so won't help with clearance issues at all. With the head gasket the same mentality applies. The cheapest will most likely be Cometic which will be more than adequate unless you're pushing 50psi.

Piccies might help as there are few different designs obviously. Internal or external gate? Is it in the actuator or the gate itself? Does the top chamber come off on the one you have? If so might be easier to dismantle it. Saves metal filings getting into the diaghragm too. Presumably it wouldn't be stupidly tight so a good easy out might pull it out.

Who cares, buy a new f'ing bolt and move on!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You don't like that one, buy another one. People are killing off valuable brain cells trying to work out what the issue is here....

Yeah it's all good. I've bought shit (and I mean shit in some cases!) from there. Some stuff is fine, just the usual Chang Wang copy stuff. The system is actually really good as they won't pay the supplier until you send notification back to say that you've received the goods. You don't get the bits, you don't pay. Very safe.

It's not a bolt that needs to be super tight so will not be a problem at all. If it was a torque to yield bolt you might be concerned but not for an idler bolt that is only tight not stetched.

Sky's the limit. If money is no issue then go for best of everything. If your budget is pretty tight then do what you can afford. Bare minimum is the machining work for oil return before you worry about anything else! Then in order of priority is forgies and rings, oversized sump, rods, turbos, valve springs, oversized valves, and on and on and on. Everyone will have a variation to this and there's no doubt things I've missed as well. I'm presuming you'll have all the engine machining done, all new bearings, balancing of the crank, etc. But at the end of the day, if you're not doing it yourself then go by your engine builders instructions.

Headspec in Garden Road (Street?) Clayton. Frank and Michael are great guys and do a great job. Very professional. They can do full engine machining if you need. They did all of the machining for my RB30/26 engine and I've been very happy with the clearances and quality as I've assembled it.

Not a diagnostic port of some variety?

Apologies for my crap picture but a bracket like this might work to drop the compressor down a bit and out a bit (provided there is room around the compressor to do this. They generally run pretty close to the chassis rail though so you would have to work around that and go down further rather than out. The blue bit is the bracket you would get laser cut. The grey bit is supposed to be the compressor!

If the 32 bracket is different then that would be unusual. I've got an RB30 A/C bracket and my original RB26 bracket and they're identical. The more likely thing would be the compressor itself as in where the pipes come out of it and where they run. Without seeing a picture of how it sits you might be able to get an A/C workshop make up new pipes. If it is the compressor can you maybe get a 33 compressor? Finally if all of that is useless then you may be able to make a "mount extension" that links the top mounting point of the compressor to the compressor mount. Basically a thick flat 'strip' of metal on each point that would still lock it in place but rotate the top of the compressor away from the engine and potentially away from the manifold. Sorry if none of that makes sense!

In reverse order. Anything lengthy (head, manifold, etc) always tighten from inside out and loosen from outside in.

Jinx!

Yes.

Wouldn't imagine it's rings then. You would expect a lot greater increase in comp with oil added (provided you added enough).

I bought a new head too. Saved all the stuffing around. Only downside is the newly cast heads are even worse than the original ones in terms of the oil returns! I spent about 6 hours on my new head with the die grinder opening up the returns. They've got even lazier over time!

Yeah they're a bastard to get hold of. Only way to get them is if someone has a totally rooted head (no, not the chicks at the pub) that they can be stripped off and as Ben says the machinist will take a bit off the bottom of the caps and then they're line bored to match the cam. A brilliant machinist could make some at the end of the day (if they could be bothered).

Yeah LZY33R is slightly misleading. You may need to change the plate or risk being liable for false advertising...... If my 30/26 makes that I'll be stoked! Good job.

As there seems to be spark issues obviously look into that first. As per above I'd look at the coil pack harness, they get cooked after many years of use and can snap wires especially if you played around with them while doing the injectors. If the spark side is actually ok then possibly could be something to do with high/low impedence injectors? Did you change all of the injectors or just the leaky ones? If you changed all to high impedence and didn't get rid of your resistor then that may give you troubles. Good luck!

Yep same as last few posts. Last step before pulling the engine back out again is mineral oil and provided everything is feeling half ok I'd give it heaps. Heaps of boost and heaps of load. You need to try and undo all the glazing of the bores that idling will have done. Hopefully there is enough cross hatch (you did hone the bores I'm hoping???) to bed the rings in a bit better. As per above you need to force the rings hard out against the bores hence why you want plenty of boost or load to achueve that. Good luck, it's a bitch to have to pull the engine out again if it's no good!

I've got one. As per DCEIVE I haven't used it yet but it's a brilliantly made piece of kit. Rob is a top bloke and easy to deal with. The $150 each way in freight for a big heavy bulky sump is a killer but still a lot cheaper than anything locally (unfortunately). Rob can build it exactly how you want it. I added numerous -10 fittings and an external oil pick up. The welds are AMAZINGLY good.

Wowzers.... A) Awesome car to race in. B) Looks like an awesome place to live, and C) How the hell do you choose which car to race in when you have a 35 in the garage?? I know which one I'd rather drive in the rain!

It's not ideal but not the end of the world. There's minimal actual "twist" between the engine and gearbox. All of the force runs straight though the shafts, not the box. The only force is created from the friction of the input and output bearings so basically nothing. There's a huge number of cars that just have a cover plate over the lower half of the gearbox so don't have any bolts holding them to the sump.

Probably a decent starting point to learning to slide is out at Rally Drive (Bacchus Marsh). They do dirt drifting around a speedway track with RWD cars to get the hang of sliding.

I tend to agree with the above, do it yourself. I've done a fair bit of rust removal on my Datto ute (with zero prior experience in panel repair). I bought a cheap MIG, went and got some free scraps of plate steel from an engineering workshop and then just made up the panels. I made a sill panel section with a piece of steel plate shaped over a gutter to get the right curve! It's ideal if you can get to the inside to grind off the slag but if you can't get to it then who cares? No one is gunna see it unless they hack the car up again! Under body stuff is easy as you don't need to finish it off as well as panels, you just paint over it with body deadener and it'll look great!

Use my work as an excuse bro. Ken Muston Automotive. At least you've got some that can vouch for you if the cops actually ring up! I'm working Saturday so I'll be there.