Shoota_77

To fix it all you need to do is put a scoop of sand in that cylinder.... Joke. It's a worry, I can't imagine that it will get much better of it's own acord. It's probably not likely to get any worse in terms of relative to the rest of the cylinders unless there is some other drama. Were your first few oil changes mineral oil? What was your run in procedure? There's also a possibility it's something other than the rings (valve not seated properly or burnt??). It's not bad enough that you would bother doing anything about it I wouldn't have thought. Just monitor it and make sure it doesn't get any worse (relatively). For your sake I hope it just magically beds in all of the a sudden but wouldn't count on it. The first 15 minutes of run time are just so important. Once the bores are glazed it takes a long time to see any changes in sealing occuring.

Sick!!! I wanna here the thing dumping out of the gate at full noise! Where you at? Northern States? Canada? Nice fab work anyway, I agree with the above, full build thread required!

More comp, more valves, more turbo, more RON. Fixed! You're welcome.

Tell them you're taking it to Ken Muston Automotive (where I work here in Shepp) and you'll be right! "I promise officer, they're really good there!"

Just a tip for when you put it back on, get a tube of anti seize and smear it on the crank nose and inside the gear. It's a moly based greese that doesn't dry up. Makes life a lot easier next time!

No, you'll still need to get the pickup modified or it will sit 10mm too high in the sump. The adapter spaces the sump down 10mm regardless of what sump you use.

I agree. My car has been off the road for 12 months now building my 30. Leave the 26 in until the 30 is ready to bang in. I did the same as what you're proposing- buying a built 30 assuming I could whack it straight in and away I go. Mine was a lump of shit and I had to start completely from scratch. Don't waste your time unless you're 100% on the engine you're buying. If you don't have a young family and other committments then you'll bowl it over a lot quicker than what I will!

To do the complete oil fix properly it's a head off job anyway. One of the best things you can do is improve the head oil returns to the sump. I reckon I took about 10mm out of my head around each of the 2 main holes, they're so much smaller than the galleries in the block.. Nissan really did do a shit job at the factory of finishing off the head.

Yep. The one that confused itself with a Hilux on the (off the!) track....

Boo!! I was shattered last time when I rocked up to see only one (Gold 33 GTS-T) Skyline participating! I think there were a couple of others that were running around in the morning but had finished by the time I got there. Wish mine had an engine.... All this action on my door step but nothing to play with. Should pull out the Datto ute... Lacks horses though...

Wow, Skylines were only just invented from whence this post was dredged up from...

Mate 370kws at the wheels is nothing to laugh at. If it's making good reliable power with good response as it is I'd leave it. One of the reasons I went 30/26 was to make the jump from low 300's to low 400's. For you the jump isn't as big (unless you have a fair crack at it) so that may help in the decision to stay with what you've got. Put half of the money in to your current setup as a (proper) RB30 build will cost you and you've got a pretty amazing engine.

If you're going to do it I wouldn't personally bother with a stock bottom end. Too low in comp. IF you're using it for track you'll want more comp to give you more stick out of the corners. Fine if you're using it for the strip as you can pump in more boostage.

Hopefully you guys bring some Skylines to my town rather than the BRZ/86 invasion of the last meet....

Yes. Due to the pointy nose of the 32 it tends to hit on the bonnet. You'll need to either raise your bonnet (or hack it), lower the subframe, leave off the cam gear cover (I think??) or a combination of those. Don't let that put you off. There should be a fair bit of info on the issues in RB30 conversion thread.

I believe he means that the picture contains the quote AND the response. No visible difference between the two. I could be wrong however!

Dump the dash 9's. The response (provided the engine is built right) would be insanely good but you're going to run out of legs pretty quick. They would be brilliant on a car in a motakhana or tight hill climb but not much chop on an open flowing track with minimal tight slow corners to blast out of. Get a set of -5's or HKS 2530's (I think that's the right number) which are similar in size and will easily get you 400kw on a well built engine with all the other correct supporting mods. As for your other option of running a single there's a lot of great options nowadays that will still give you great response but a huge topend, especially on a bigger bottom end that will spool a big single up quicker.

Yep, sump adapter and modified pickup (or run external pickup). There's other fitment issues with getting a 30 into an R32 but that's nothing to do with the engine itself!

Mate, seriously, stop it! Posting those piccies of your "undercarriage" are enough to make any grown man milk his baby wand till it runs dry and drops off! Everyone is right, you shouldn't drive it! Keep this one in cotton wool then make another one that you can drive!

Huh? If you have an idea what you need and you believe you've outgrown the FC then you must know what you need? What is the FC not doing that you think you need? Find and ECU that does do this for you and buy that one. As has been aluded to before, ask the bloke that's going to tune the car for you. Tell him what you're chasing and let him have a say rather than rock up with your new ECU only for him to say he doesn't tune that ECU as many unfortunate people have copped before.

Cool, you don't need help then.

I love their Youtube videos! They're awesome. Within reason would give me the confidence at having a crack at tuning myself. Only problem is most tuners won't touch a tune that's already been done. They'd just wipe it and start all over! If you added flex fuel or boost control later the videos would definately be a huge help.

Going back to the OP's actual question, they do seem to read quite similar in specs. They both look to have 3D mapping (for flex fuel), sequential injection and direct fire ignition. The PS2000 has wideband and narrowband 02 control whereas the Pro only has narrow. The PS2000 has a bigger internal MAP sensor 2.5 bar compared with 1.5 in the Pro. Pro has 8 inputs (with the addition of another cable) PS2000 has 11 built in. PS2000 has variable cam timing control. PS2000 has hard and soft cut rev limiter PS2000 can control injection based on exhasut gas temp changes. Basically the PS2000 looks to be a lot more advanced in what inputs it can use to automatically alter the tune on the fly. If you're sticking with a pretty standard setup the Pro would be more than enough. If you're going to go crazy and spend hours on the dyno getting the car running better than when it came from the factory (and juist as reliable in terms of no dangerous lean outs, etc) then the PS2000 is for you. For $500 it's probably worth spending a bit more now so you don't regret it in 12 months.

Too late then! The lower comp should give you a huge top end when you chase it later on (with big boost) I just hope it does the job for you in the meantime. Maybe you can just hold it at 6000 rpm minimum with some mad anti lag system and it'll be perfect!

I would've thought too big. For a drift car you want instant snappy power. With such low comp and big sticks I think you'll struggle to achieve that unless you've got a small super responsive turbo which then defeats the purpose of the big cams cause you're not going to achieve massive top end anyway! With that comp you will be able to push big boost into it but that will only make it a slug until it hits boost then you'll have a huge top end which wouldn't suit drifting. I would think Poncams would be a lot more suited if you even bother with cams at all. If it's not too late I'd bump comp up to 9.5:1 and get a mid sized turbo (presume single?) so you've got an engine that makes power straight away then a turbo that comes in not too soon after. What power are you chasing?