Shoota_77

Thought I'd better do one more post this year seeing the last one was in January! Crazy year, too f**king busy to even think about the car. Built big arse shed (14X8 metres so fits 4 cars easily) myself which turned into a lengthy and testing process! Bought 2 post hoist for shed, waiting to connect power to the shed to get it set up. Built (not me personally!) new house. Spend every spare second of non work time trying to get gardens in some sort of neat condition (but in reality done f**kall really). Got a promotion at work so now have even less time to actually spend it playing with the car. I'm going to strip what I've done of the engine back down and start all over again. Hopefully next year will be better....

The old "while the engine is out" scenario..... I said that about 2 years ago! Mine went along the lines of "while the engine is out I may as well build an RB30...." what a mistake that was! Keen to see how it all progresses, well written too! A little bit of grammar and story goes a long way to making a build thread a good read! Best of luck.

Most of it will be perfect but you'll be holding yourself back with a 3" exhaust. Go 4" while you're at it. 3 Litre will flow a lot more air than the 2.6L. Should be good for 400 kw's with that setup on E85 if everything is done properly.

Your car any quicker at Winton with the 2.8L Sam?

Generally the drama is where the old seal was it will have put a groove into the crank. If you put the new seal in just the wrong spot or a tiny bit off centre it will be over the groove and possibly leak. There's two ways to avoid it. Firstly put the new seal in shallower by a mm as in don't insert it into the rear main housing as far. This will keep the sealing lip away from the groove. Secondly you can put a "speedy sleeve" on the crank which is a thin sliver of metal that presses over the seal face and gives a brand new fresh surface to seal on. Either way will work fine.

Can race Lehmo!

Pays to have pint sized little person hands and more patience than a nursing home.......

Few pics from Show and Shine-

Run your car as lean as fu(K for a few hours at full noise, that'll burn the poofter out! Might even give you better combustion chamber to sump breathing too!

I've just put a tensioner on either side with mine. Hoping that is enough to be able to maintain tension either side of the crank. I wanted to try another tensioner (3 total) at some point in the belt but doesn't seem to be room. Time will tell if it works ok.

As Ben says it leads to a very long section of unsupported belt. Under normal circumstances you probably won't notice anything but if you're pushing for big power you might end up with bad timing fluctuation due to the flapping belt. A Ross Balancer and Crank/Cam sensor setup may fix this though. For a measly couple of grand....

I think they're RPM Signal and Speed Signal. I bought one second hand and had real dramas getting mine hooked up... Here's a link to the manual - http://www.blitzpowerusa.com/techsupport/pdf/sbc_i-color.pdf

The starter could be an issue. It might be 'poling' I think we used to call it where the starter directly connects + and - internally and draws huge current, enough to drop voltage under 12V which takes out some of the systems required to start the engine (injectors, coils, computer etc can cease to operate under 12v's). Do a voltage current draw test to see how much current draw there is when cranking. If it's super high I would first check the main terminal to the starter. If that's fine I would then presume you have an internal issue in the starter. Or, it might have not one fu(king thing to do with the starter.....

It is when you own a GT-R!!!!!!!!

Nice looking car Nick. They do look great in nice clean white. Each to their own but I'd be doing forgies waaaaaay before rods. If you're not chasing big power (which if you're going -7's you're obviously not) then forgies aren't mandatory but for the extra few hundred dollars, why wouldn't you?? You're better off over building than under doing it.

Going back to the start, in addition to disconnecting the coils, pull the efi relay or disconnect your injectors as well as it will still pump fuel into the cylinders. That fuel ends up on the oil and dilutes it which is obviously not a good thing. And yes, remove the spark plugs as it will crank over at twice the speed without them.

If you can afford it, do it. It's a great safe guard just to keep an eye on things (if you've got a display for it). Anything that helps with the ECU's ability to maintain the right AFRs is a good thing too.

Sounds balls Brad. Should be great fun. Interested to see how the big precision goes on a 30 bottom end. What power range do they quote it as having? Are you going to convert it back to AWD or leave it as is? All the best, look forward to seeing how it comes together.

Great work Michael, that's a cracking result out of -9's! Good job. Must be a shitload of fun to drive now!

We all set out thinking that way! Mine has been in (various- moved twice since it's been in bits) sheds for the last 2 years in a million pieces. Life is a bastard at throwing shit at you to make time limited! Kids, work, sport, gardens, etc make it bloody hard to dedicate time to your baby. Maybe I'm just crap at time management! Anyway, all the best, good luck finding a good one!

I could be wrong but don't they recommend not using a Nismo slave cylinder with the Coppermix? Again only recalling stuff I thought I read in the past!

Welcome, good luck finding the right car. It's half the fun of the whole experience. Get good at finding GT-R related items as you will be spending the entire time you own the thing finding/replacing shit for it! If you get the car for $15000, prepare for another $15000 to evaporate before too long.....

Have a crack with the search function. I recall a guy coming up with a fix for it probably about 6-8 months ago.

I agree. Even on a fuelly setup it's pretty gluggy for such low kms.

It'd want to have good service history with only 14,000 kms on it! You could build a bulletproof RB26 or buy a stroker kit for your current engine for that sort of money. I'd only do it to keep an actual NUR original, not for the minimal gains it would give you over a standard engine.