Adam_RSX

Mine will be sprinted so I'm half thinking that I might need to upgrade Yeah, maybe I'll just get the struts chopped and get some slightly lower springs made and run some new R31 Monroes or something, I really don't want to spend $$$ on more shocks Do the Z31's run the same struts as DR's? I'd like to modify a second set so that if I get done for having height adjustable suspension and they want me to weld it up then I can put the standard struts back in

It had metallic race pads in it before (thats why my rotors were chewed out) and it now had EBC Green Stuff pads I think... just needs new rotors, but I wanna find out about strut and brake swaps before I buy new rotors... Though really I should just get them I'm not a big brakes fan, I prefer to use engine braking whenever possible or to back off just a little sooner

Ah k.... just thought it was weird that the fronts were smaller, wasnt sure if maybe when i had the rotors skimmed they had nicked my brakes and fitted MR or HR ones

I wanted to use DR30 struts because I already have adjustable KYB dampers On the issue of brakes, I swear my car has 10 or 10.5 inch front discs and 11 inch rears... that is normal right? (I didnt take the wheels off, just roughly measured through the watanabes, I think the front are 10.5)

That vector is sooooooo what should be on the shirt, its tough as!

Standard Aussie R31 brakes suck, I know that

Why do you want to 'build' a show car? You could just walk down the street yelling "look at me" If you really want to do it then you'd be spending your 8 or 9 grand on the paint alone, then you'll need a bodykit (I guess) and it would want to be something that is of decent quality and that will not date too quickly... you dont want to cover it in a couple of grands worth of paint only to junk it a year later. Wheels, at least two grand most likely more Exhaust can be mega expensive or cheap... since you're not planning on driving it cheap would do. If you're going to do it, then I'd think you'll be looking at 12 o 14 grand before you get to the obligatory 'phat' retrim, stupidly loud stereo, and engine mods that are just there for wank value. woftam if you ask me, but its your cash. Just remember it will cost more than you think. And if it doesnt people will think you suck because your car isnt as fully sick as the one next to it because he has two more tvs than you Personally, I'd copy the old JMS R33 but do it in a deep blue, and DRIVE it (not cruise in it, drive in it) because it had presence and I don't think that Jap trends will die too quickly (look at all the oldskool race replica cars in Japan, they still look good, but anything that was in Hot4's more than two years ago looks pretty damn ghey)

Would they fit our brakes?

Whats wrong with a hundred thousand km car? If it drives ok, and feels tight there shouldnt be a problem

My DR30 has 160,000 on the clock and I'm pretty sure its been wound back because thats incredibly low for a 20 year old car... but it does feel resonably tight still, carpets arent stuffed, pedals are ok, engine feels ok and still goes pretty well (apart from the rings probably needing to be done) EDIT Just checked, Mine has 166,000km on it now, but I've been doing 400/500km a week for the last 3 months, and it has a engine flush sticker on the radiator with a printed 200_ with an imprint from a '2' on the _ then imprint of 11 18 and at km it has 152,000... so if it had a flush at 152,000km in November 2002 the 166,000 has a chance of being real? Because it was imported late last year

Are DR30 struts different to MR30? (I want to get another set of struts to have cut up to make coilovers)

Look at the door lock striker plate, you can usually see how much use a car has had

Oh crap, didnt notice the date

Yeah, theyre definitely fibreglass, mines sitting in my cousins shed gathering dust ... It's more of an extended filler panel though I reckon

No you can't, you need to develop a recognised psychological condition before you can sue hime, but if you did have a recognised condition you'd be in with a shot. Proving a psychological condition as a result of your wheel falling off might be a bit harder though lol

Hmmm... I hadn't thought of louvres... we've had them punched in the bonnets of other cars though If you want good cooling, run a MR30 front with no grille lol

Ghostrider I havent taken them yet Law and managing a Blockbuster is leaving sfa time atm plus I accidentally deleted your pm with your email

Mines going to look tough... I want it to be different, not like the rest of you sheep :lol

Nah, you need new ones with ADR markings on them. Fuel restrictor also needs to be fitted... where you'd get leaded fuel from anyway I dont know.... I still did my mirrors anyway. You dont need rear belts or child restraints if you take the back seat out (you do need to put a 'permanent fixture' in the back though to prevent you just sticking the seats back in, I just used MDF to cover the hole through to the boot, and covered that with speaker carpet. Also covered the floor where the seat would be so theres no paint showing

And people ask me why I took my Tekamon-specific bits off.....

They'd be one piece RP-01's then wouldnt they?

Tried Nissmaz or Niswreck yet? I know Nissmaz had a couple of R30's there a few months ago because I got some bits off them. Glynde Auto Wreckers also had an R30

I've gone off the S13 Coilovers idea, will probably get some DR struts cut up and have my own made up. Does anything else share the same struts? (ie HR30/MR30/Z31/JDM R31 etc?)

Josh, you do know that the L Series was around before the L20ET don't you... Nice pic of Sams car btw Shane, yeah thats what I want to do, but every time I try to ask people about that they don't know wtf I'm talking about or if its even possible... As I see it, as long as the ECU worked with the standard sensors you'd just need to make a fly lead that went between the standard loom and the new ecu

I want to run something that can be returned to standard really easily