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Hi all. I already posted some newbie-ish questions here and there but this will be my first "big" post. Last summer I went and fulfilled a kind of childhood wish, because I just thought I needed this experience in my life no matter what. The car I bought is a mildly modded 1995 BCNR33 Vspec. It was repainted to a metallic orange color all around and it had all windows reseated. Not so well done black respray in the trunk and a metallic black in the engine bay. From outside it looks very nice except for a minor paint error on the roof and the rear spats needing new adhesive tape. The inside is pretty clean and no broken plastics, missing or faded buttons. Even the adjustable mirrors and trunk antenna work like a charm. Despite a moderately long list of issues I don't (yet) regret buying this car. Most mechanical problems are just due to age, like worn rubbers here and there. The underside sadly has lots of corrosion, especially to the back. It looks like it either has been driven in the winter for a while or it lived near the saltwater in Japan, the rust is nothing terrible but it'll require to be looked after. Mostly panel gaps and all the mounted components underneath are a bit crusty, but I don't think anywhere has progressed so badly that there's going to be holes. Front right jacking rail is crushed and needs some care so it doesn't develop into a rust crater at some point. Worst part is definitely the strut towers. I thought they looked fine but after taking off the strut bar I noticed that it actually started bulging up on the passenger side. Probably would have passed on the car or negotiated down by some thousand Euros more if I had noticed this before buying, but here we are. Trunk area also has signs that there was a water leak to the interior once but nothing too crazy, I guess lots of Skylines had this at some point. As for the list of (known) issues, I'll try to make this compact. I hope the coloring is self explanatory. Mechanical: -Various busted or soon-to-be busted rubber bushings and ball joints. Will replace ball joints with OEM or better and bushings with polyurethane where possible. -Shaking steering wheel at above 80kph -downshift from 5th to 4th is a bit crunchy unless I rev-match, might just try to renew the shifter assembly, but it's not a priority issue -tailshaft centre bearing could use a replacement, is it worth going 1-piece tailshaft as it doesn't look too fresh all around? Chassis: -underbody corrosion on many spots and in hollow spaces, needs to be treated -corrosion on many bolts, hoses, lines, suspension components, subframes, will be treated when replacing of the bushings is needed as time goes on -strut tower top panels and some of the surrounding panels are rusty, so needs fixing. Will look into doing this with a buddy in the winter, otherwise bite the bullet and pay a professional -driver side door is misaligned to the body and needs to go a slight bit more inwards -both door windows are misaligned and have an airgap where the window meets the door at the B pillar -The Aerocatch latches for the bonnet have locks but no keys, need new keys. -driver side door window is kind of gritty and could use a polish -damaged jacking rails and front frame rails, from people lifting the car the wrong way, might have this fixed by a bodyshop Electrical: -Nismo tachometer is just bouncing and displaying nonsense, supposedly worked fine when the stock ECU was still in the car -An old Greddy boost controller sits on the dash which will be removed as it servers no purpose anymore. -a led segment rpm gauge is on the steering column, will probably also be (re-)moved once the Nismo tacho is working correctly -there was an attempt to make the sound system better by the previous owner but it was just inducing noise all the time, ripped out the amp and filters in the back, no music for now -trunk antenna goes up as long as the radio is on regardless of the mode, I want it to only rise if I choose Radio specifically or per switch -3rd brake light is a bit dimmer than the taillights but everything was converted to LEDs so mabye now it just seems dimmer? -reverse light flickers, have to test if that behavior changes when I fiddle with the gear stick. Hope I can get around changing the switch. -Left side taillight, blinker section has minor water intake and is humid after washing. Other side has a hole in it, probably for that exact reason. I'll probably reseal them entirely and plug the holes. Engine: -minor coolant drips on one or the other hose -rear turbo leaks oil onto the exhaust making the car essentially undriveable due to fire hazard -Oil filter relocation kit has an oil drip at the Dash lines, will probably make a new connection there and tighten real good and pray -throttle body assembly is slightly stuck for the first throttle pedal input after sitting for a while I'm always open to suggestions and advice from more experienced people, I'm sure half of this list is easily dealt with and just requires some time and effort to sort out properly. Once I have some proper pictures of the car I will post some in this thread, I just have to remember to take some more once I get the chance to. Will post updates when I have news on anything, I want to try to keep this thread as kind of a logbook as well. Ultimately my goal for this car is to just enjoy it. An engine rebuild is probably going to happen sometime as well, because it is old after all. It will never be fully new again, I am just not that rich. But I want it to look good, work well and not rot away while I drive it. I'm probably gonna spend a lot of money on this journey, hopefully not an unreasonable amount.

Hey gurus. I have a bit of an issue.. s1 R33 Gts25t. Stock RB25DET . Apparently has : a hypergear turbo, EBay 50mms external gate with a screamer , boost controller, fuel pressure regulator, 3" exhaust and a big fmic and a forward facing plenum. Now the issue is it's running really rich and fuel economy is completely stuffed. The bov has been removed and the pipes been routed to the back of the intake manifold. I have changed my Ecu and maf, and it's still the same. I can unplug my tps and the car drives and.Runs normal, but if I unplug the maf the car stalls. Also if i squeeze the bov hose closed the car stalls... and honestly I'm lost as to where to look now. Any help would be awesome thanks.

Sorry to start a new thread but from what I can find is evey1 elses issues seem to vary... R33 running RB30/25 combo, z32 afm, chipped ecu, bosch pump, Twin turbos, Greddy EBC, Built manualised auto box. So as it goes.. drove car home from gearbox shop (after new box fitment) parked in driveway (car drove beautifully and was pretty much nursed home), came out next morning to check on dash wiring as cluster is not working, not knowing the the fuel pump switch is on the dash, long story short crossed fuel pump wiring as it was dodgy as shit (EEk), found the blown fuse replaced and re-assembled went to start it and the following really hesitant in starting needs a bit of throttle to coax it into running then idles ok but wants to die every 30secs if not given a squirt on idle, wont boost under load but will rev freely on a single squirt but if pumped to rev up will cough and splutter. Under load wont boost can hold the throttle open 1/10th and seems to go ok but the second it goes down further dies out and feels like its on 2 cylinders but if accelerator pumped under load seems to want to go a little better but don't want to push it to detonation as still coughs and farts!!! So this resulted in the following New spitfire coils New plugs (0.8mm gapped) replacement (tested ok) ignition module New z32 afm (and computer reset will stall when afm unplugged) Pressure reg reading steady @ 45psi Tried a known good Ecu (worse result and doesn't want to idle at all...) Replaced CAS Checked timing hasn't slipped (from top view seems ok, wound the motor over a good 8 times to see that marks lined up (didn't want to pull balancer to get cover off so viewed from top cam marks) Hooked up Ecu talk software and no faults and read outs seem ok, pic attached of car on idle. I'm desperate for an answer! About ready for it to go to the shop... Was thinking Racesolutions as im in the Penrith NSW area?

Hey guys, just installed an impul 300k dash cluster in place of the stock one. First thing i found that the plugs don't match with the impul cluster so i had to move a few of the pins in order for it to operate properly. Now the problem i'm having is that the speedo will read double and then sometimes will revert to reading normal..? Can anyone shed some light on this issue. Also i'm not getting full time power steering as i had before??

Hi all, I am running an RB25DET Neo in my R32 and using the R34 power steering pump and reservoir. I have added a power steering cooler into the low pressure return line as can be seen in the pictures but apart from that it is exactly the same as factory. The problem i am having is that i think i have a huige airlock in the system. My power steering pump is making some terrible noises and my mechanic mate said that it is trying to pump air through the system and tats wy it sounds like that. I am inclined to believe him as i had the whole power steering system apart when i took the engine out and it had absolutely no power steering fluid left in it when i put it all back together, so it seems i had perfect conditions to create and airlock in the system. Many tutorials say to jack the car up, pour the P/S fluid in the reservoir and then turn the steering wheel from lock to lock and just let the system bleed itself and work the air out, but this is not working for me at all. Even with the wheels in the air there is resistance when trying to turn the steering wheel. And obviously it is even harder with the wheels on the ground. With the wheels in the air i have turned it lock to lock probably 200 times and it seems to make no difference at all to how it behaves. My mate said that there could be a bleed nipple or something similar on the power steering rack itself that i can use to bleed the system but from doing a little searching nobody has ever made mention of a bleed point on the power steering rack itself. The only theory that i have at the moment is that it is my power steering cooler causing the airlock. I will get some photos tomorrow of how i have it set up, but basically i have it upside down in the front bar (ie, the power steering lines run up to it to connect to the barbs rather than down to it) Any help ideas would be greatly appreciated as i am really a bit stumped at the moment. I don't want to have to drive it round to work the air out as it is making some truly terrible sounds at any revs haha :|