Jump to content
SAU Community

need advice with a R33 gts-t

Raza

By Raza,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

JimX Grand Master

JimX

Posted
Posted

I have owned both auto and manual cars in the past, and for around town driving the auto wins. But once you hit the twisty stuff (whether roads or the track) the auto becomes a royal pain in the arse. I prefer a manual simply because of this, and I just put up with the rowing through the gears around town.

If I commuted in heavy traffic in my car I would seriously have considered an auto instead. But auto boxes in general are a sloppy bitch and I prefer to tell the gears what to do directly. Since my car is mostly a weekend warrior there's no sense in it being an auto.

If you are just looking to improve quarter mile times though, stick with the auto. No sense changing the box one way or the other just for that, unless you are aiming for sub 11's or so. In which case the auto with high stall is better.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted
This Thread was started on " 07-02-2003" try and not bring up threads that are almost a year old. Cheers

sorry redlineGTR I disagree...why start a new thread and say the same things all over again?

Better to dig up an old thread from the dead and continue the discussion

Neil Grand Master

Neil

Posted
Posted

Couldn't agree more Duncan.

As for an Auto versus Manual,,,the manual has to win but only if the cars a daily driver. Who in there right mind would want to drive around the streets with a 3500 stall converter. My neighbours got a 11 sec commodore and it's nothing but a pain in the arse. He actually loves my Skyline only because it's not revving it's head off ALL the time.

Also BMW's SMG M3's while being an auto shifting manual are slower over the 1/4 than the H pattern version and a lot more troublesome.

Neil.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Also remember that the BMW, Alfa, Ferarri and Maserati systems are clutchless manuals, not automatics with up/down buttons.

Personally I think there is a world of difference between the two, autos are far slower to shift....and whats the point of an auto if you always shift it manually.

I'd take the bettter control any day.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

Hi guys, it is so much easier and cheaper to build a 9 sec car with an auto. Easier because you can have a narrower per band. Cheaper to buy ($5k versus $17K) and cheaper to maintain as it is much gentler on the rest of the drive line.

In a circuit race car I couldn't even consider an auto.

In a road car, well if I drove only in traffic all the time, then I would have to consider an auto. But I don't, so its a manual for me.

So horses for courses you might say.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • uchoa
      Yet another RB Neo misfiring thread after reading all the others.

      By uchoa · Posted

      Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
    • fatz
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By fatz · Posted

      House of Fatz dry dock needs a clean sadly one of the long time stables is leaving this weekend   see ya mr purple
    • GTSBoy
      NC MX5

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Hence why I've only modified my car into a pure daily. Everything has to remain reliable & roadworthy, while providing value and grin factor. It also must not be handcrafted to the extent that the car will be immovable if something breaks because you cannot get or make a replacement to at least limp around with.
    • Kinkstaah
      NC MX5

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Nah, I definitely do that kind of stuff with my car. I do drive it around as a daily! It's just that mindset about building a car to actually still use/retain it's function as a car is rare. If you modify your car into a weekender, IMO you've ruined 5/7ths of the fun. It should remain fun to do daily errands in.
×
×
  • Create New...