Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26: Noise Made When The Car Sees Boost!

Turbz_13

By Turbz_13,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

PHATR32 Grand Master

PHATR32

Posted
Posted
i am quiet happy to have to replace the inturnals if i have to and to spend 10-15k on it. but

i cannot afford to drive the car 100km+ to have it checked out then 100km+ back home....that would mean taking time off work.

mate on the one hand you say you can spend 10-15K on a rebuild, yet you cant 'afford' to drive it 100kms? or tow it? weird.

read the bold!

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted
read the bold!

thanks for that advice. i read what he wrote. perhaps the 60 seconds or so requried to call a tow truck could be squeezed into his high powered schedule?

anyway, none of it makes sense to me. you've got $15K for a rebuil but wont spend $300 to get it to the workshop to find out if it's ok or not? or even better find a closer shop (if there is one).

Turbz_13 Experienced

Turbz_13

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

not bottom end...still a noise but made somewhere else.

a bottom end is consistant, this seems not too be consistant, as when i was driving i got 60-70kms without any noise, then all of a sudden it started, pulled over and my speed dropped then it went normal for a few seconds. decided to pull over so i pulled called my friend and was thinking to myself"oh no" left it for a bit until my mate got there started it up and it had stopped, then went got a drink came back started it and the noise just started again. went up the road to friends house. check a few things. start ity again no noise...leave it for a while longer then decide to head home. started the car and it was there again, driving back it cut in and out 2 or three times(cutting back to normal)

i have a good idea what it is...not goin to cost anywhere near 10k

Edited by Turbz_13
Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted
not bottom end...still a noise but made somewhere else.

Im going for bottom end... it just isnt too bad yet :) Theres a thread on here recently of someone whos car was driven with a stuffed bearing, check it out. Specifically looks at the pictures for the end result ;)

Rolls Grand Master

Rolls

Posted
Posted

My oldschool R31 with a redtop rb20 in it had a similar problem only slightly more advanced.

If you held the revs at about 2.5k you would get a metallic banging (not quite as deep as knocking noise) anyway it was consistant and definately bearings. When the motor was reved out (shit motor didnt care if it exploded) sometimes it would make the noise others it wouldnt. Car was also really down on power sometimes others fine.

But the noise is exactly the same as you describe it. SERIOUSLY STOP f**kING DRIVING IT!

Change your oil filter and pour the oil out on some paper in the sun and I bet you will see silver sparkles from the shagged bearings in it. If you insist on driving it put some thicker oil in it.

Turbz_13 Experienced

Turbz_13

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i found out exactly what it is now

to day i took the coil cover off(when the car was runn ing normally again) what it was running and i removed a lead that connected to the 1st coil pack and walla!! started to run like shit. huff and puffing, vibrating! sitting in the car it almost sounds like a knock but out side of the car it sounds like a WRX...so i having problems with coil pack or the wirinig somewhere.

very similar to the discription on a bottom end going! trick me and a few otha people.

from the start the noise i discribe was a more of a muffled knocking...like wood on metal, not really metallic.

Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted
i found out exactly what it is now

to day i took the coil cover off(when the car was runn ing normally again) what it was running and i removed a lead that connected to the 1st coil pack and walla!! started to run like shit. huff and puffing, vibrating! sitting in the car it almost sounds like a knock but out side of the car it sounds like a WRX...so i having problems with coil pack or the wirinig somewhere.

very similar to the discription on a bottom end going! trick me and a few otha people.

from the start the noise i discribe was a more of a muffled knocking...like wood on metal, not really metallic.

Of course if you remove the electricity supply from the coil pack its not going to run properly, it means one cylinder isnt firing.

If you think thats it, when the car is running like crap disconnect coil packs one at a time. If when you disconnect each one the car runs worse, its nothing to do with ignition. If you disconnect one and theres no change in the car, then thats your problem.

Turbz_13 Experienced

Turbz_13

Posted
  • Author
Posted

dropped and checked the oil 2day...as 1 of u guys said. and checked NO metallic at all!!! check it rather thorough. i had 2 other people checking as well, 1 was a desiel mechanic. and we couldnt see any metallic at all!! thats seems like a good thing to me!!!

  • 4 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...