Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ah sweet as. yeah i think i do rember you. yeah my car is sitting at midas right now. dean is just finishing off the extractors today.

yeah you might see it out the hutt on thursday. i will have been for a long drive before then to start the run in as i will probly thrash it at some stage being around the skyline guys as they will all want to see what it can do.. lol

good to hear that your car is running again :P

  • Replies 99
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

yeah wazz i know thats the worst thing to do. but also nanaing it is just as bad. i have planned out my first trip in the car. will involve alot of accelerating and decelerationg and change of load as i will be going over hills etc.

i think i can have the 1,000 run in ks done in a week and a bit. if i have the time.

yeah definatly will try to get some audio of it. probly will need to change the rear muffler from the stock turbo one im running now. seems to have good flow and is nice and quite.. just a little ratly i think.

fuel consumption

hwy driving 9.5 ltr /100 km and better ( 10.6 km / ltr )

city driving 10.8ltr /100 km  (9.2 km / ltr )

Gawd damn.... Doesn't appear to be any difference in fuel economy between turbo and N/A.

I've only just had gtr injectors and a new genuine 02 sensor dropped in, trimmed back the pfc fuel correction to 58.5%, instantly it began getting 11.6L/100km's.

Had it all tuned up and now gets a nice solid 10.6L/100km's of city driving.

I'm pretty much just cruising around 90% of the time, occasionally I give it a little squirt that has it turning the rear's easily in second gear. :)

So it is driven fairly easy.

Prior the old crappy 260cc injectors were causing hard starts and slight flat spots on the tip of the accelerator pedal. Fuel economy was wofull. ~14L/100km's.

On the stock ecu when the injectors were ok it was managing ~11.1L/100km's.

cheers for the advice. especialy cus im planning on starting the car on thurs. will definatly be an interesting time. have to rember to keep using the brakes. not the engine as i usualy do.

yeah the fuel figures will be interesting to see how it all pans out.

ok well i got the car back yesterday. iv had a few little problems. all but one i have delt with now.

the car cranks, has fuel, injectors are working, not sure about the coils yet.

but the problem is the ECU is coming up with the error code 34. so that is about the knock sencers. that doesnt suprise me as the loom was cut on only the knock sencers. but i have solderd it up and still no luck. im really frustrated as no body knows what to do to fix it.

i have attachd a pic of what im talking about. the brown wire has the clear wire inside. but it has silver wire on top so i dont get how it works and what the silver wire is there for as its not grounded on anything. and it just stops abruptly(checked that on the rb20e knock sencer wire.)

post-23121-1140155316.jpg

  • 2 weeks later...

she lives!!

oh how good it feels to have power :D even tho i can only rev to 4000rpm its still damn fun. well for the 5mins i drove it.. oh and the mean grunty sound even tho it only has a stock turbo muffer on there.

then i found a coolant leak under the front of the inlet manifold. so thats off now. gota replace the gasket and the front stud as the thread is munted. but that should be done tomorow.

dyno is in 2weeks(18th march) and on the 19th im taking part in some 1/8th mile drags.

oh its starting to get exciting. mmm rb30 goodness :)

yeah i used to have a dirty old rb20e. the jump is massive. i might try get a drive in one of my mates gts25 just for comparasion. or let him take it for a spin to compare.

im keen to see how the dyno gos to see what the torque and kw are.

it will definatly be drivable round town easy. now i just need to get the inlet manifold on. check for leaks then i can start driving again :)

Hey I was thinking of doing this conversion on my R31 since DOHC is always better than SOHC, but I just want to know if all RB25's have VVT and whether you can run it without the VVT? Also do you need to run it from the RB25 ECU or can you still use the RB30 ECU?

Hey I was thinking of doing this conversion on my R31 since DOHC is always better than SOHC, but I just want to know if all RB25's have VVT and whether you can run it without the VVT? Also do you need to run it from the RB25 ECU or can you still use the RB30 ECU?

read the r33 rb30 thread.

r32 heads bolt stright on. that thread is in force induction.

you can make them run with out vvt. just change the inlet cam. but you still have to run external oil feed and drain.

ok heres some sad news :P

sounds like my rb30 has screwd the big end bearing after only 20km of driving. yeah its worse then a rotor...

the reason why is the engine lost all its oil out of the front of the engine. presumably around the crank oil seal. so it should be fixed under waranty. argh stupid engine builders!!

so ill probly wont be able to dyno the car or take it to the 1/8th mile drags as it probly wont be fixed in time :(

all i can say is the little bit of driving i did today was freaking awesome. i cant wait to have it back and running. it sounds so nice too :O

read the r33 rb30 thread.

If you mean the one stickied at the top, that thing has 166 pages! Can anyone just tell me if the RB25DE ecu is needed to run the RB30DE. I'm assuming so since it is DOHC and it has the cam profiles in it.

If you mean the one stickied at the top, that thing has 166 pages! Can anyone just tell me if the RB25DE ecu is needed to run the RB30DE. I'm assuming so since it is DOHC and it has the cam profiles in it.

if your going to not use the vvt you can use a rb25de ecu outa a r32. im using vvt and i was running a stock rb25de ecu from a r33. bear in mind you will need the right loom for the ecu.

download this pdf to find out everything you need to know

http://www.geocities.com/r32_jjc/

if your going to not use the vvt you can use a rb25de ecu outa a r32. im using vvt and i was running a stock rb25de ecu from a r33. bear in mind you will need the right loom for the ecu.

download this pdf to find out everything you need to know

http://www.geocities.com/r32_jjc/

Lol forgot about the loom. Now I'm not so sure if I want to do the DOHC conversion since there'll be a lot of wiring involved. Think I might just go down the RB30ET route.

Guess it depends on how much wiring there is to do and how hard it's going to be and also how long the car will be off the road.

Is there actually much work involved in having the VVT?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...