Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 99
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

well a mate of mine with a 4dr whale ran a low 16 a couple of years ago.. NZ dusnt have the best drag tracks.. well the best one is too far away. haha.

i just bought a 2way diff off the local internet trading site.. im hoping its a good one cus that would be bloody handy to have a nice diff finialy. slightly lower ratio at 4.1 but its all good!

so the diffs on the way. now all i need is a set of semi slicks or some 16s and should be looking even better.

i think if i can get in to high 14s by the end of the summer i would be extremly happy.. that would be 1 pretty fast 4dr whale ay?

i hadnt even planned to drag untill like 2days before the drags...

cheers nizmo freek.. im still getting the mudd outa the guards of my car! probly going to have to take off the wheels and clean every thing again!! sunday was sooo much nicer

15.1 from a GTS1 or 2? 2 bit more powerful (around 140ish kw at engine)

whatever, thats pretty fugen quick

i guy in my class had a r31 wagon that ran a flat 16 with quite a few bolt on things, and some match porting, that was about it (thermo fans, mini spool, catless zorst were the major stuff)

Edited by usherly
That really is a worry when a couple of years back a bloke at a private air drag day ran 15.1 after 15.1 in his R31 GTS that only had an exhaust.

What power did the GTS make? I think it was some where around 140fwkw.

Yeah that's it, 140.... I've got one :laugh:

Doesn't surprise me though..... R31's are a fair bit lighter than a 4dr R33.

The GTS's make pretty decent power up top compared to normal RB30E's, and 3.9 diff instead of 3.7

Gday , not here to brag about my car . Heres a few things i did to my RB30DE to get 14.1 @ 97 mph . For starters its in an r31 station wagon and only wieghs around 1300 kg . Get as much wieght out as possible , like spare tyres tool boxes , towbar if it has one .

Am using a rb25de gearbox , so same ratios as yours . Diff has 4.11 pintara gears and a mini spool ( locker ) . Tyres were just 195 60 x 14 radials with 20 psi . Advanced the ignition timing approx 4 degrees , diconnect the vvt solenoid . Diconnect the exhaust at the end of the extractors ( you,ll love the noise too ).

Hope this helps you go quicker .

Edited by dondesoto

my diff ratio is 4.3... but a single spinner isnt much use on a slippery track. with stiff suspension and 18s and 2.5deg camber in the back...

next time i will put stock suspeinsion in. run some 16s possibly with semi slicks

yeah i loved the sound with just dropping the rear muffler off.

cheers guys. the next one is in about a month so ill see if i can improve on my time...

  • 1 month later...

Where do you NA blokes have peak power being made with the rb30de's?

Us turbo blokes find power peaks around 5500rpmish with the std plenum, aftermarket plenums have power on the stock cams peaking around 6400rpm but more importantly power holds really well to 7500rpm. On stock cams.

um mine peaks at like 6000ish i think. there will be a dyno sheet on here somewhere but revs to 7 in a flash... still on stock ecu as well...

yeah rach you got that right it was 123rwkw and i did run a 15.2...

basicly the 123rwkw is just becuase the car hasnt been tuned and has hardly had any real mods done to it yet.

the NZ tracks arnt very sticky. well the track i was on wasnt very good as it had been raining that day and the night before... plus i needa pratice launches etc cus a 2.2 60foot isnt that good. that 15.2 was done with street trim plus sub and clothes and stuff.

i still have the vvt cams in.. but i will be sending them to get reground soonish to help with top end power for the strip

  • 4 weeks later...

Hey guys, I have a 1997 r33 GTS25 series 2, Towards the end of the year i am looking to make my RB25DE a rb30de. I have read http://www.geocities.com/rb30_twincam this guide but i am only 17 and not exactly sure who to go to for help and i wouldnt be able to do it myself.

Im just gathering research atm

1. Where could i take my car to get this done.

2. Is this possible with my engine.

3. Where do i start with the process and how long will it roughly take from start to finish.

4. Total cost excluding labour from workshops if done at one.

Any help would be great.

josh.

i can answer one of your questions, and that is yes you can do it with your engine.. but as in using it for parts.. the head will need to be modifyed to fit the block slightly as well. the others you should probly start a new thread for.

update for my car:

my link ecu has arrived, just waiting on finding a cable to tune it and for the car to be drivable again, its got clutch/gearbox problems.

also have got 2x xf throttle bodys that i am modifying at the moment, then all i gota do is make up some flanges and get the hole lot welded up

Speak to your insurance company about cover and modifications that are not deemed legal by the state.

I went shopping for insurance this year. I called every insurance company I know of (Famous car insurance, young and cool, just cars, shannons) that deals with imports.

ALL said you are required to tell us what modifications have been done to the car BUT its then up to you to make sure those modifications are 'legal'. If those modifications are not legal we can refuse to pay a claim.

Its just another way to possibly get out of a claim should you mess up bad and cost them a lot of money.

  • 2 years later...
rb25de head that has been rebuilt and modifyed to fit rb30 and run VVT $1050 all up (i got lucky with the guy RIPS selling the part that he was going to use on his drag car) the mods were $500 with a braided line to run vvt.

what needs to be modified on the head to make it go straight onto the rb30 block? & do i HAVE to run VVT?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...