Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive read around the forum, and found most of the answers to my questions, apart from a few.

1. How do i check if the car is stolen, from either Aust or Japan? I know about the blue plate, but who can i ring to check and what car info would i need to provide them.

2. Buy from a dealer or private? I'm looking at dealers, but not sure where they are. So far, went to SEI imports in Dandy. Answer through experience please.

3. What about buying one that has yet to be imported, like the ones on Prestige Automotive site.

4. Anything else i should look for?

Thanks in advance

Rob

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100729-buying-a-skyline/
Share on other sites

Whats your budget?

If you finances permit, purchase the car locally rather than importing. There are some fantastic bargains to be found from private sellers, however purchasing from a dealer gives you some fallback in case something goes wrong even though this peace of mind comes with a higher price tag.

If your buying a car thats already registered, do a REVS check on the car and have a competant workshop thoroughly inspect the car you want to buy inside and out.

Whats a REVS check? Is it the vicroads check? ie VIN and Rego number?

RACV check good enough? cause i dont want to be paying everytime i see a skyline i like.

Budget: 17k

Edited by N13Astra
lol thats what i rememba u can c dat my memorys not da gud

lol

thanx 4 the correction

yeh dawg and yo engrish aint good either yo.

REVS check will tell you if any money is owed on the car etc.

Buying ones from like prestige etc can be a long process, might find it may be a bit cheaper than buying locally or via a dealer, BUT it may also be a bit more expensive depending on what car you buy etc.

So how would one go about checking up on a car that is not compiled. Seeing as you cant drive the car to a reputable mechanic? Will a rev's check still be worth while? The car im particularly thinking of is sitting at a Mr Muffler shop, so they may help with a check?

This is for a car that was imported by 'someone' and selling it after getting it compiled and rego'd for the buyer.

  • 2 weeks later...
So how would one go about checking up on a car that is not compiled. Seeing as you cant drive the car to a reputable mechanic? Will a rev's check still be worth while? The car im particularly thinking of is sitting at a Mr Muffler shop, so they may help with a check?

This is for a car that was imported by 'someone' and selling it after getting it compiled and rego'd for the buyer.

Hi, There was a post by merli, in the Tutorials section - (a sticky) - there is some good info on checking the car, if its been stolen and so on. I used that list when I was looking at a couple of skylines today - really worthwhile. The other thing is, Im gonna be using RACV testing as well - just to make sure. But i think if your going through a dealer, ask for all reciepts as well - so you know how much has been spent.

Matt

Alright, seeing as I am in the market for another Skyline, I have been looking up on all this as well... I'll tell you how it goes...

1. REVS Check

When someone takes out a loan for the car, they have the option to get a "secured" loan, which means, if they can't pay the repayments on it, then they give permission for the bank to take and sell the car to get their money back.

So, if they owe money on the car still and sell it to you. Then stop paying their repayments, the bank is well within their rights to come and take your nice new car, and sell it. Leaving you with nothing more than a bank loan... not good.

Requires 2 identifiers. VIN & Rego = easiest.

2. Nissan FAST Software

This can tell you all the specs about the car they way it left the factory. Engine type, Paint colour, interior, options etc... If you notice that it left the factory being gunmetal grey, and its now white... watch out... Basically, use this to make sure everything matches the way it is now, to the way it left the factory.

Now, someone might just not like gunmetal, but it might have also been in a pran and been resprayed, or been resprayed in aus / japan as a "rebirth".

These are the two best things to check... I wouldn't buy a skyline without doing it. Otherwise, there is a great writeup on here about things to check when buying a new skyline... But I can't remember who did it, or where it is :| but wont take long to find / have someone post a link to it :rant:

- Crimpage

Whats a REVS check?  Is it the vicroads check?  ie VIN and Rego number?

RACV check good enough? cause i dont want to be paying everytime i see a skyline i like.

Budget: 17k

as said by others above, it's just a check to make sure the car can't re repossessed because someone owes money on it.

it's free, or $12 if you want a certificate... see here: http://www.revs.nsw.gov.au/

as said by others above, it's just a check to make sure the car can't re repossessed because someone owes money on it.

it's free, or $12 if you want a certificate... see here: http://www.revs.nsw.gov.au/

umm no. its free to check, but to have protection against repo u need to purchase the certificate the day before u buy the car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...