Finally Put My 32 On The Dyno

[Are_thirty_two]

get the cheap series 1 safc for dirt cheap

[sky30]

He knows his stuff and he's a jap enthusiast, unlike the only SA ecu chipper who simply doesn't appear to give to sh*ts about jap cars these days. Its all V8's, black jeans and thongs for him.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Nice call joel, the SA guy now bags out small jap engines, he seems to have forgotten that turbos originate from japanese cars and if it wasn't for the import scene he probably wouldn't have a turbo bolted to the side of a LS1 V8.........

[MattSR]

Are we talking about MD? considering he cut his teeth tuning jap cars I find it hard to believe that he bags jap engines out...

[The Dan]

Nice figure but no one can ever really trust there output...all it takes if for them to set it up with u being above sea level or what ever u go and u can grap and extra 30hp....

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

All dynamics dynos are equal in shootout mode. That is why they implemented it, so that tuners could accurately compare results. It's not right when people say...."oh but on Joe Bloggs dyno it reads less (or more) than it really is". If it's in shootout mode - everyone is equal.

Edited January 7, 2006 by 3lit3 32

[BHDave]

All dynamics dynos are equal in shootout mode. That is why they implemented it, so that tuners could accurately compare results. It's not right when people say...."oh but on Joe Bloggs dyno it reads less (or more) than it really is". If it's in shootout mode - everyone is equal.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Not quite. There are still variables that have to be entered by the operator (such as the barometric pressure as mentioned), as well as the temp correcton on the intake temp that can be used to fudge results.

Something for you to have a look at on shootout printouts is the difference between room or ambient temp (RT or AT) vs intake temp (IT) and consider that an 8 degree difference between ambient and intake netted me about 10rwkw on the print out.

I'm often a bit sceptical when there is a difference of more than 10 degrees considering mine was an unenclosed pod and the car had completed about 10 200rwkw plus runs and only recorded a difference of 8 degrees. I recently saw a 250 plus rwkw s14 go through the same situation with the same sort of temp increase. As a result, that is often the second thing i look at when a dyno sheet seems to be a touch high (first being the power figure).

[Fixxxer]

My air temp vs intake temp was 30 deg vs 34 deg which would sound about right. I didn't ask the guy for a straight out power run, I asked him to check AFR's....

The only bad thing to come out of it was that my car now seems to have a very slight miss when idleing which wasn't there before.... seems to miss in quite a random fashion..... not like its missing on 1 cylinder every time, just sometimes.... but I can live with that if the car runs fine through to redline. I'll probably need new coils in the future.

I think I may settle for an old SAFC in the future too.... I really only need to move my AFR from sitting on pretty much consistant 10:1 all the way to redline, up to 11.5 AFR. I think it would be pretty simple with an old SAFC.

Fixxxer

[rev210]

I would lose the ecu mate.

I reckon the timing map would look pretty nasty, it would be sailing pretty close to the wind. Thats something a SAFC is not going to fix either.

3 things you should always have tuned with a margin for error;

1) AFR

2) Boost

3) Timing

Each one yeilds more power as it approaches the danger zone. In your case the lowish boost and rich AFR's are probably helping things, I wouldn't be in a hurry to go leaning things out with a S-AFC.

[Fixxxer]

D'oh, not something I wanted to hear.

The guy who dyno'd the car said there was "already a lot of timing on it" when I asked him about the timing.

He also had the other workshop guy lean over/into the engine bay and listen..... for what I gather was any pinging that may have been occuring. He did this for the last 2 dyno runs and the guy gave it the thumbs up for both runs.

I'm starting to reconsider any more mods and only give it a boot full when the weather is cooler or night driving, just to be safe, this is after all, my daily driven, I don't want to break anything. My old car had the same power but only weighed 930kg, gotta get used to a larger/heavier car and live with it.

Fixxxer

[The Dan]

D'oh, not something I wanted to hear. 

The guy who dyno'd the car said there was "already a lot of timing on it" when I asked him about the timing.

He also had the other workshop guy lean over/into the engine bay and listen..... for what I gather was any pinging that may have been occuring.  He did this for the last 2 dyno runs and the guy gave it the thumbs up for both runs.

I'm starting to reconsider any more mods and only give it a boot full when the weather is cooler or night driving, just to be safe, this is after all, my daily driven, I don't want to break anything.  My old car had the same power but only weighed 930kg, gotta get used to a larger/heavier car and live with it.

Fixxxer

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I'm sure they knew what they were doing but they should have known better.

The closer you put your head to the engine...the harder it is to hear pinging.

You can hear pinging a lot clearer from 10 meters away than you can from 10cm.

I hope they have done the right thing by you on the tune as I know of plenty of tuners who just blow through it and don't actually spend the time needed.

[Cubes]

As the old saying goes..

Suck and see....

Try the SAFC, you will be able to easily sell it for similiar money later on.

[rev210]

Cubes,

I reckon he needs to ditch the jap chipped ecu before he goes and gets a S-afc. Why touch the AFRs if you are running a mickeys hair away from detonation on the timing map?

Swap/sell the ECU and get a stockie + SAFC is a solution but, the adjustable timing map is a top thing to have. Re-map the ecu locally is a very good idea if thats something he can do.

[Cubes]

I do see what you are getting at.

If he can get a cheap ecu remap from dr drift then by all means, but if its a the usual $800 job then bugger that, suck and see then if need be grab a stock ecu.

[Fixxxer]

Hey guys....

Just to get back to my ECU, I never had the ECU mapped.... its the ECU that came with the car when I bought it, so no tuning was done when I had the car dyno'd.

I've been thinking about it lots and taking peoples advice... If I did get a SAFC I would take timing out of the car to be safe with the leaner mixtures. I'm probably going to put it back to 0.6bar on my Profec for everyday driving anyways.

Fixxxer

[rev210]

Unfortunately if the ecu in the car has jap chip in it, the actual timing map is going to remain even if you retard the base timing. The S-AFC in that case might be one step forward two steps back.

Dropping the boost down to 0.6 bar gives you some head room to adjust the AFR's using a S-AFC however. The S-AFC II can also monitor knock levels.

[Fixxxer]

Ok here's a new question which is a bit controversial.

Should I run on Shell Optimax Extreme 100 to be even safer? (In terms of the possible jap ignition advance on it)

Ohhh and does anyone know what all the stuff means on my early model Profec. Its got 3 small dials on it on the right, an overtake boost button, a nob that seems to go in 0.2bar increments of boost and a red LED panel that reads -.5 on idle and varies as I accelerate, I don;t think it ever makes it into positive readings, but when I'm on boost I'm usually looking at the road

Could I set my boost from 0.8bar to 0.6 bar and just use the "overtake boost" button if I want to give it a little?

How long does it last for? How much extra boost do I get???

I tried doing a search before but came back with lots of Profec B II stuff...

Fixxxer

Edited January 11, 2006 by Fixxxer

[predator]

thats a profecA

[Fixxxer]

Here's the graph peoples.

Fixxxer

[Cubes]

Definitely strage it made such power with such rich afr's.

Possibly his wideband sensor requires callibration?

[Fixxxer]

*shrug*

It does blow a teeny bit of black smaoke up high on boost, so I don't have a reason to think its not running rich to some extent.

And it does feel strong up top. I guess the only way to compare to other cars is to go to a dyno day and compare with others on the same dyno, same day thing.

Fixxxer

[Squizz]

Man that is rich as...