Rb26 Rebuild

[Wazz]

ok one quick question.. n1 water pump flows more or less than standard?

[proengines]

but he used a Gates timing belt and no note of replacing the idler bolt!!!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

And?

The idler bolt isn't a torque to yield bolt, why would it need to be replaced unless there was something wrong with it? I've done 30 or more RB's and never replaced one?

What is the problem with a gates belt? Is it that it's not called a "High Tuned Hyper Super Ultra belt for timing situations" and costs $350 more? They are stronger than a standard Nissan belt and they are also a pretty blue colour so they look fully sick with your anodised cam gears when you leave the cover off.

[SteveL]

ok one quick question.. n1 water pump flows more or less than standard?

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

N1 has less vanes than a standard water pump, plus has an anti-cavitation plate. It's designed for an engine that spends most of it's time at high rpm....ie a race engine.

The standard pump will flow more at any given rpm, which is why it is best used on the vast majority of street driven cars.

[SirRacer]

I dont see how you guys are factoring 1000-1500 for pulling out the engine. Its simply rediculous.

The last one i did in a garage (no hoist) and a shitty hire crane we had the engine ready to be removed in under an hour. It took another 15 mins to get the thing out as it was a little bit of a mission angle wise.

Im getting my block and head rebuilt next week so will be able to add in some other prices but i think some of the comments here are pretty rediculous. Just because its an expensive job doesnt mean its any good.

Parts so far anyway (most were on a discount admittedly)

Bearings (acl race) + head rebuild kit incl tensioners 627.00

Cambelt 50.00

Crank collar 120.00

Water pump (rb30) 27.00

Restrictor 15.00

Bearings (pistons are near new) 247.00

I cant see how even if i get forged pistons & rods (2500 ono) and a Jun pump (600) its going to cost another 7k to rebuild the engine?

Edited December 12, 2007 by SirRacer

[Duncan]

lol from almost 2 years ago.

Anyway, if you can have a gtr motor ready to pull out in an hour without a hoist I am happy to pay you the hour's labour

[SirRacer]

Sorry mate, was doing a search on some information i was after and didnt realise how old it was.

The engine is in a cefiro so there is a little bit more room, but yeah it was relatively easy. The hardest part was getting some of the loom clips unattached. We have done quite a number now so they are getting easy.

Say a shop is charging 95 per hour, its effectively taking 10 hours to remove the thing when someone whos very average with a spanner set (i work in a bank) is doing it in way less.

[bloodzkull]

i agree with duncan. i except i will pay you two hours labour just to do it.

i am looking to have my motor pulled out now to sort the oil control issue out. just slowly putting money aside as i want to do it all at once and a set off cam's with a mild port and polish while the heads off.

not gonna be cheap.

[writeoff]

I'm getting my R32 GTR engine rebuilt atm in it has cost more than I sold my other R32 GTR for - and that was a good car in good nick that I got a fair price for. And the car still isn't ready!!!!

People commenting in this thread for a rebuild for less than $10k. I wish.

[PHATR32]

perfecting timing of this thread making a return, as i beleive ill be needing a rebuild.

engine is on its way out (hopfully tonight) so i can bust it open and see what the knocking noise is.........

worse case would be a full rebuild, which i plan on doing using all stock parts (or after market if prices are close) not looking at making huge power, i just want an engine that will last daily driving.

steve

[GTR-32U]

10k is not too bad...! Thats if its done properly,machined to good tolerances etc.Many builders take many shortcuts.I would go the external oil pump even over the N1. Yes N1 is a better design but it still isnt flawless. If ya think 10 k is pricey..jump on to Tomei's webpage and see how much they sell crate motors for...Ridiculous...you can buy a neat GTR for the same money

[GTAAAH]

I think someone has to define: Rebuild.. Many of the rb26 parts won't need replacing if you only wana run a few hundred kw's and if you just want it rebuilt so you can drive it same story... but a rebuild for 10k i'd be expecting to see performance improvements over stock and a 15k one i'd want to see 500kw reliably

[fieds83]

My first gtr had the engine built, drive in drive out $9000

CP forged pistons/rings

Eagle H-beam rods

ARP rod bolts

Tomei sump baffles

Tomei metal head gasket

Reco stock head

acl race series bearings

N1 oil pump

Gates Racing tming belt

Extreme clutch

machining, paint, reassemble and install

This was by Boostworx in SA.

Edited December 13, 2007 by fieds83

[bloodzkull]

how much extra (if at all) would you factor in for a 26/30 combo? providing you already have the head.

[benm]

My first gtr had the engine built, drive in drive out $9000

What was the rate for labour and did you supply the parts or did Boostworx supply them for you?

Edited December 13, 2007 by benm

[fieds83]

What was the rate for labour and did you supply the parts or did Boostworx supply them for you?

That was drive in drive out, they sourced the kit from Hi Octane Racing. Boostworx are very well organised, efficient and easy to deal with.

Sorry i passed the recipts on to the new owner so i am unsure of exact amount for labour.

Give Shaun a call he will be able to give a reasonably accurate estimate. There were no nasty surprises in regards to price.

Edited December 13, 2007 by fieds83

[benm]

That's fair enough, what I was getting at is many people do a "drive in drive out" and get the mechanic to organise the parts. You only have to look at difference in parts pricing between your local supplier and that of say Nengun and you could save anything up to 50% just in parts alone.

Then you have labour charges, take your car to an import mechanic that eats and breathes skylines or take it to your local mechanic that you have known and trusted for 10yrs that also knows your engine and you could save another 50% just in labour charges. A good example of this is tuning costs around Sydney between the internationally recognised tuners vs the small time mechanic tuners.

[fieds83]

That's fair enough, what I was getting at is many people do a "drive in drive out" and get the mechanic to organise the parts. You only have to look at difference in parts pricing between your local supplier and that of say Nengun and you could save anything up to 50% just in parts alone.

Then you have labour charges, take your car to an import mechanic that eats and breathes skylines or take it to your local mechanic that you have known and trusted for 10yrs that also knows your engine and you could save another 50% just in labour charges. A good example of this is tuning costs around Sydney between the internationally recognised tuners vs the small time mechanic tuners.

Totally agree that experience is the key, the only drama with Nengun and the like is the timeframe. Hi Octane had the kit ready to go and i did not have to worry about getting slugged unexpected import duties etc

I am sure it probably could have been done cheaper in regards to parts though i bought it like this and its not necessarily the approach i would have taken. Personally, not being in a hurry i would have shopped around for the best prices though most shops go with what they have direct access to.