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Chris, the GCG hi-flow is $1950 and as SK mentioned, they bold straight back up exactly how the old one came off - no need to worry about new manifolds, dump pipes, or oil and water feed lines.

From what I've read on their website (link HERE), they replace the ceramic turbine with a steel wheel, they put in a better flowing compressor wheel, and replace the ball bearing unit so there's little or no worries of that ever being an issue.

This is the route I'll eventually be taking when I scrape some money together. I'm lucky that my cousin had a spare turbo off his old motor (he replaced the motor in his R-33 about a year ago) to give to me in the mean time. When I give him back his turbo he'll probably be getting the GCG upgrade as well.

Removing and replacing the turbo was pretty easy - as long as you can remember where everything goes (use a camera if necessary), then the only problems you should have is accessing some of the nuts, bolts, etc, as the space is a little bit tight between the turbo and the passenger-side strut tower.

Best of luck with it. :blink:

Chris, the GCG hi-flow is $1950 and as SK mentioned, they bold straight back up exactly how the old one came off - no need to worry about new manifolds, dump pipes, or oil and water feed lines. 

From what I've read on their website (link HERE), they replace the ceramic turbine with a steel wheel, they put in a better flowing compressor wheel, and replace the ball bearing unit so there's little or no worries of that ever being an issue.

This is the route I'll eventually be taking when I scrape some money together.  I'm lucky that my cousin had a spare turbo off his old motor (he replaced the motor in his R-33 about a year ago) to give to me in the mean time.  When I give him back his turbo he'll probably be getting the GCG upgrade as well.

Removing and replacing the turbo was pretty easy - as long as you can remember where everything goes (use a camera if necessary), then the only problems you should have is accessing some of the nuts, bolts, etc, as the space is a little bit tight between the turbo and the passenger-side strut tower.

Best of luck with it. :blink:

Cheers mate. I'll let you no how I get on :)

Hmmm....

So with -

- GTT I/C

- Highflow

- 12 psi

- Fuji Catback

- HKS Panel Filter

- IEBC

- DFA

What soughts of power figures am I looking at there? Would it get 160 - 180 awkw?

Same as the above, but with a split dump and 1.1 bar = 200 4wkw.

:unsure: cheers :D

Bleed Valve. Piece of shit though

Obviously was! Cost you a turbo, me thinks! (sorry!)

First thing I did was ditch the Turbosmart bleedvalve (set at 10 but overspiked) and put in a Hybrid brand EBC. To be safe. Im running 12psi now (approx 11.8 actually is the top it gets to), but generally get off the gas when it gets to around 10psi.

With a hiflow with steel wheels, forget the low boost stuff. Thats for ceramic wheels. Hi / Lo settings should be 15 / 12 and that should be safe for the engine *with all supporting mods.

*GCG turbo, air filter, GTT 'cooler, full exhaust, EBC, SITC, fuel pressure regulator (or injectors), 14psi would surely be 200awkw, with a nice and safe tune.

My opinion only (worthless!!) =P

Im led to believe the GCG hiflow is best suited for optimal power/torque to be run at 15-17psi on a internally-standard RB25DET (use a EBC fellas!), can anyone confirm?

I would have thought running 12psi would be a waste on a hiflow'd turbo. Maybe talk to GCG and ask 'em?

10psi is too low tho for a hiflow steel wheel turbo (if you've got the supprting mods - which you have). Good for ceramic standard turbos but a bit of a waste on a modd'd Stagea!

Go 14psi, nice and safe tune on the PFC Alex, you've got the supporting mods as such, so it'd be perfect for everyday use - remember your right foot is the rEaL boost controller.

=) Brendan

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