Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

whats the go with this meet havent seen any threads about it.

any people from here entering?

few of us heading over from perth for a look

will there be any cruises friday or sat night?

or any drift meets over that weekend. last year i caught drags friday and sat and a drift practice day on the sunday

Edited by GOT BOOST
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101395-46-rotor-meet-25th26th-feb/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeah from experience the 4,6 and Rotor Cruise is always the biggest of the year i find.

Lets just hope its not as hot as it was last year!

That sucked ass so much!

But seeing Keir run a 8.9 on friday nights testing was the highlight of the weekend!

Yeah from experience the 4,6 and Rotor Cruise is always the biggest of the year i find.

Lets just hope its not as hot as it was last year!

That sucked ass so much!

But seeing Keir run a 8.9 on friday nights testing was the highlight of the weekend!

Everyone able to go one the cruise? and i assume they don't like people being stupid on these cruises -> always read the section in the trading post for the cruise

Everyone able to go one the cruise? and i assume they don't like people being stupid on these cruises -> always read the section in the trading post for the cruise

Well honestly i didn't go on last years cruise but i did the year before and all i noticed was 2 cars get pulled over and the were literally 100's everywhere!

As far as the "behaving" i mean they obviously would like everyone as behaved as possible but that doesn't really happen.

However like i said its the most enjoyable cruise i have ever been on.

I'm planning on running my Crown at the meet.

I'll probably be doing my licencing passes on the friday night T'n'T.

Cheers

Sean :)

Nice, will have come out at see what she can do off the dyno, hey you reckon i can sit in the back again? :P

I'm planning on entering if everything goes according to plan. I won't be that exciting to watch (low 12 maybe an 11 if I'm lucky) but it should be fun as I've changed quite a bit since last time I ran.

If the last two years are anything to go by it will be a hot one :huh: 2004 - 48'C

Yeah I know what you mean Will. I had a look at the MT Drag Radial while waiting to picking up some bits from Outlaw Speed Shop the other day. They look awesome and with that tread pattern they may even handle a bit of minimal road use - even trundling around in the wet perhaps?

How much for a set (rear only) of 275/40/17? With the money I've spent on the car over the last 6mths I probably shouldn't - but the rears need upgrading/replacing this year anyway :D

Ask Keir - I'm pretty sure that's the size they're using now.

They may even have a few cheap 1/2 used sets lying about before you decide to shell for them.

Down side is although they are radial, and DOT approved, this does NOT make them road legal in SA.

Up side is RWD Commodores have been known to get 1.5x sec 60' times on them - I got 1.74 with my mild combo.

the crown is nuts missed out on it last dyno day :P best of luck with it

Feel free to come and have a stickybeak if you see it out in the paddock at AIR mate. :)

I'm just finishing reassembly this morning after putting a set of ARP 2JZ Supra head studs in it. Given the state of the gasket, It looks like that on boost it's been leaking combustion pressure out cyls 1 & 6 for quite a while probably. (the stock plastic region head bolts a pretty weak)

I've also just fitted up a DC Electric water pump and controller, which will allow me to run the motor about 15deg colder than the stock thermostat-which should deliver a bit more power and allow me to cool the car down between runs.

Seeyou there

Sean

Hook it up and run a 9!!!

I can't wait to see it!

How was your Xmas and NewYears Chops? Good I hope mate.

I'll give it a red-hot go at least. It ran the 10.4 on 20 psi, and has now recorded 447rwkw on 23psi-with the head gasket leaking pretty badly (studs and EWP should deliver another 25-40rwkw.)

I'm changing the diff ratio up to a 3.08 from 3.23 too as was running out of revs. The 3.08 and more power should see it close to (if not over) 140mph-which is parachute territory. :angry::)

See you there :)

Sean

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...