Jump to content
SAU Community

Heating Issues With Rb20det In Silvia


Recommended Posts

Hey Lads,

I got a RB20DET with twin thermo fans on radiator no air con condenser or anything all ripped out when driving my temp gauge reads....60-70 degrees which i think is a little low but once the car starts to sit in traffic it will jump right up to 90 degrees and start to over heating and start boiling the radiator fluid and spitting it out the over flow tank etc....

Im wonder i have a R33 Radiator in my car also would would be the best way of keep my car cool....vents in bonnet.

What about a new thermo stat that opened up earlier what would this help with.....can i please get some good import as with what to do about my position im in.

Im also putting in new knock sensors as mine are dead dont think this has anything to do with the heating issues but.

Thanks.

- Luke :(:):D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another basic option is to hook one of the fans to a switch and just turn it on when the car is in traffic, i have it for hot nights and particularly warm days, if its gets any hotter than 1/2 then the other one kicks in due to the thermostat. But of late i did have a few issues with the radiator :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If it's not overheating when driving around, but does when in traffic then your issue is most likley the thermos.

What size are you running and how are they configured?

Ideally you want to get the biggest fan(s) you can fit purely because they can blow/suck a lot more air than a smaller one (davies craig claim that a single 16 can flow more air than a pair of 12's).

Also, the fans can have the blades flipped over and the polarity of the wiring reversed depending on how its mounted. It would be a good idea to check that they have been set up correctly for your mounting style.

And last. Most fans seem to do a better job when blowing air through the radiator rather than sucking it through. If you can mount your fan infront it may help a bit too.

And flush your radiator while you are at it.

Good luck, overheating sucks arse.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If your really worried about it, take the thermo stat out of the car, and order a new one from nissan... my thermo stat is ruined so i just took mine out as im waiting for it to come from japan,with a few other parts. Car just takes a little longer to heat up thats all... not good for long term, but i figure its better then having the gauge on H the entire time (i.e cooking the engine)

Dayne

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You're absolutely sure they work when the engine's running? And you're absolutely sure they BLOW air through the radiator?

I doubt the thermostat has anything to do with it overheating. If it was going to overheat, it's more likley to do it when the engine is working hard, not when it's just sitting idling.

The standard thermostat is supposed to be around 78C, IIRC.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Err..... have you changed the radiator yet or had it checked out yet? My mate had the same problem. We ended up changing the thermostat, water pump, timing belt, reflushed the cooling system and check the thermo-fans before we changed the radiator. I work at a delearship and the first thing you should do if you have overheating issues with those symptons should be to replace the radiator or have it fixed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's generally best practise to run 1x run without VCT enabled, then 1x run enabled till redline. Overlay the two torque graphs and you'll find the desired RPM to turn off VCT. Sometimes, it might be even worthwhile turning off VCT earlier control torque/cylinder pressure and using VCT purely to spool the turbo.
    • They sell them in Malaysia for about $4
    • First time I ever have issues with Amazon, but my wife often tells me to keep an eye out for fakes. It finally got me. I wrapped up the conversation with Gates. The gentlemen I was talking to seemed to hate his job but the response time on their technical support is outstanding. He stated that the hose is marked with some variation of "SAE J30R10" but that if you only purchase a 1 foot length like I did, it is possible to get a cut between markings and have a blank hose. To no ones surprise, he stated the swelling and "gummyness" isn't normal and to replace/buy from somewhere else (He mentioned NAPA). I'll toss a small end of the new one in gas for a few days before pulling the hanger out again, just to be safe.  Hose should arrive Monday. For those running multiple pump in tank hangers, you know the joys of getting them out and back in. I'm surprised I haven't destroyed my level float yet.  Lastly once I wrap all of this up, I'm planning on hitting the dyno again in 2 weeks while I'm on vacation. I realized recently that my VCT is set to turn off at 5000RPM. I'm surprised it wasn't increased while I was on the dyno last. I'm expecting I can increase it to ~6500RPM, if not more. Should hopefully get another 15-20kw out of it. I also want him to revisit my knock thresholds. I'm occasionally getting false knock around 3000rpm. 
    • I don't believe you.
    • All jokes aside, OP they're just called R32 oem rims as you said. The Nissan engineers back in the late 80's loosely copied the design from the Koya Driftek which was designed and produced about 18 years later.
×
×
  • Create New...