Jump to content
SAU Community

Help! Bolting Flywheel Onto Rb25t.

DRFT 14
 Share

Recommended Posts

DRFT 14 Collaborator

DRFT 14

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have an RB20det flywheel that im using to bolt my R33 gearbox to an R34 25t. There is however a 'nipple' next to the 6 main bolts on the motor which the flywheel doesnt have a hole for. Check the pic below to understand what i mean-

This is the motor, you can see the nipple in between the two holes on the left.

DSC02139.jpg

My flywheel below as you can see doesnt accomodate this nipple, im guessing this is because im using an older flywheel on a new motor? Is this something that Nissan added in the R34 motor?

DSC02143.jpg

So, my mechanic is coming tomorow morning to put everything together and drop it into my S14 and i just descovered this issue. I need it sorted streight away. Can i simply saw this nipple off? I was going to do that but thought id make sure this is alright and the right thing to do before i take a saw and hack into my new motor :O .

Edited by DRFT 14
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101620-help-bolting-flywheel-onto-rb25t/
Share on other sites
SteveL Mentor

SteveL

Posted
Posted (edited)
I have an RB20det flywheel that im using to bolt my R33 gearbox to an R34 25t. There is however a 'nipple' next to the 6 main bolts on the motor which the flywheel doesnt have a hole for. Check the pic below to understand what i mean-

That's the flywheel dowel pin and all RB turbo engines have one in the crank and the matching flywheel has an extra hole. What you DON'T have is an RB20DET flywheel.....more than likely it's from an RB30E (R31 Skyline or VL Commode) which definately doesn't use a flywheel dowel.

You could saw the nipple off, but better to drill the extra hole in the flywheel. But you might have a bigger problem - if memory serves an RB25DET flywheel is slightly bigger in diameter than the RB20DET (or RB30E) type. What that means is that the starter may not engage with the flywheel you have correctly (but I might be wrong..... :O).

Edited by SteveL
DRFT 14 Collaborator

DRFT 14

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have asked lot of people and have been told numerous times that the 20t and 25t flywheels are the same. I even rang alot of dismantlers and they all said they where the same?

Drilling a hole on the flywheel itself seems a bit more complicated than chopping off the nipple, so im gonna head off to the garage now and get the saw out. If anyone has anymore comments, let me know :O

SteveL Mentor

SteveL

Posted
Posted
I have asked lot of people and have been told numerous times that the 20t and 25t flywheels are the same. I even rang alot of dismantlers and they all said they where the same?

As I said, it's a memory thing......but it's not an RB20DET flywheel, that's certain.

Drilling a hole on the flywheel itself seems a bit more complicated than chopping off the nipple, so im gonna head off to the garage now and get the saw out. If anyone has anymore comments, let me know :O

It's your engine....don't damage the crank.

predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

Like Steve is saying, its pretty standard that dowel (going on my s1 rb25 engine, and flywheel sitting around), and also would add to the stability of the flywheel being locked into place. I wouldn't go sawing it off, I'd make sure you had the right flywheel.

95% positive rb20 and rb25 flywheels are the same (they are always listed as the same part numbers), but I *think* there may be some rb20 flywheels out there that don't fit the rb25 ...for whatever reason(?)

KamikazeR33 Grand Master

KamikazeR33

Posted
Posted

the only flywheel that might not fit the rb25 box may be from a red top rb20 (not certain of course)

but if i was going to b using an r33 box id most likely want to use an r33 flywheel

ur other options are to buy an aftermarket lightweight one, or replace it with one that fits

Josh Grand Master

Josh

Posted
Posted
the only flywheel that might not fit the rb25 box may be from a red top rb20 (not certain of course)

but if i was going to b using an r33 box id most likely want to use an r33 flywheel

ur other options are to buy an aftermarket lightweight one, or replace it with one that fits

The 33 flywheel is the same as the 32 - at least in aftermarket solutions it is anyway..

DRFT 14 Collaborator

DRFT 14

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hmm, its good to hear the flywheels are the same, and also confoimation on the clutch, as im using the same 5puk clutch that was used in the old RB20 setup. I did howover saw off the dowel. If the non-turbo's didnt have them, im sure mine will be ok.

Cheers for the help guys :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Turbodoc
      Noobie Stagea owner..

      By Turbodoc · Posted

      Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • GTSBoy
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
×
×
  • Create New...