Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

All i know is it's a little cylinder shaped thing about 12mm in diameter and about the same high (i could be completely wrong on the dimensions by the way). It has a hollow centre that is shaped to be a tight fit over the ball on the bottom of the stick

ok here;s the picture taken after i removed the rubber bits.

Just a quick question, is the circlip supposed to be loose? and is that bronze looking piece suppose to have that top bit missing?

I'm just running off to the hardware store to get myself a pair of needle nosed pliers to remove the circlip

post-20995-1137451314.jpg

Edited by lingeringsoul

ok just took the thing apart and had a look inside, this is what i saw....i supposed the plastic ring is supposed to be sitting inside the metal ring?

well it took me half an hour to actually get it out and when I finally put it in the right position, it was going fine. But when I try to put the circlip back on again, it went loose again, could it be that the ring poped out again?

now I gotta make another trip to the hardware store to get a circlip pliers because the cheap 2.75 pari of pliers are losing their teeth...................

post-20995-1137461011.jpg

post-20995-1137461061.jpg

Some comments about the first picture:

1) You have -heaps- of little metal filings in there, are you sure you still have all 5 gears intact? I took mine apart like you have only a few days ago and didnt see any metal filings at all (gearbox oil was changed 2wks ago though).

2) The white plastic bush... See how the right side of it (in the pic) is worn back abit but the left/bottom part is worn back heaps (ie its not even all the way around the bush) I dont recall mine (RB26DETT) having any of that. It was a perfectly smooth/square corner not sorta at that angle like yours is.

UPDATE: Finally!!! its fixed, after 2 hours, its finally fixed. The problem was the first time I put the plastic bit back in, I didn't correctly fit it into the ball at the end of the lever, so when I wriggled the stick around, it must have come loose and feel back onto the side again. So this time around, I took the plastic bush out and fitted it onto the ball and then carefully put it back into the metal ring, then locked it up with the circlip. I gave it a good couple of shifts just to test it out and it seems to be fine for now. How it got out of that hole in the first place is still a mystry, maybe the vibration of the car knocked it loose, or maybe it just needs replacing. Well, i'll leave it for now and see how long it lasts, if the problem keeps coming back, then I'll get it replaced.

This has been quite an interesting experience taking the gear lever apart all by myself and see what was inside. My dad used to do it when I was little and I didn't really know why he was so into it. I guess I understand now. Working on it all by myself seems to bring on a sense of achievement which really felt good.

A pair of pliers - $2.75

A pair of circlip pliers - $13.95

Fixing the problem all by yourself - PRICELESS

UPDATE:  Finally!!! its fixed, after 2 hours, its finally fixed.  The problem was the first time I put the plastic bit back in, I didn't correctly fit it into the ball at the end of the lever, so when I wriggled the stick around, it must have come loose and feel back onto the side again.  So this time around, I took the plastic bush out and fitted it onto the ball and then carefully put it back into the metal ring, then locked it up with the circlip.  I gave it a good couple of shifts just to test it out and it seems to be fine for now.  How it got out of that hole in the first place is still a mystry, maybe the vibration of the car knocked it loose, or maybe it just needs replacing.  Well, i'll leave it for now and see how long it lasts, if the problem keeps coming back, then I'll get it replaced.

This has been quite an interesting experience taking the gear lever apart all by myself and see what was inside.  My dad used to do it when I was little and I didn't really know why he was so into it.  I guess I understand now.  Working on it all by myself seems to bring on a sense of achievement which really felt good. 

A pair of pliers - $2.75

A pair of circlip pliers - $13.95

Fixing the problem all by yourself - PRICELESS

good to hear you got it fixed

It's probably worth getting a new piece for it while it's working as it is likely to happen again eventually.

The other thing is the metal filings look like they have come from the top edge of the grooves on the right and left hand side of the pivot ball. How that bit has been broken i dont know but its likely a result of the stick coming loose and so moving further than designed.

On your first photo you can see the large slot on the right of the pivot ball. That should have clean square edges, it looks like the edge has been damaged, and thats where the bits of metal are from. Nothing major to worry about, it wont affect anything as long as the little bit's of metal are cleaned out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Apex and welcome! 
    • Probably too late to reply to this, but worth a try. It's not calliper flex, the calliper as a whole is moving so it has to be calliper mounting bracket flex.  Calliper mounting brackets are designed to stop the calliper rotating, they don't need to be designed heavy duty to stop the calliper moving in and out.  Whatever it is is not the major cause of poor pedal feel, the outer pistons are moving towards the disc rotor the same amount as the inner pistons are moving away from the disc rotor.  Hence no change in fluid usage, what extra fluid is needed to move the outer pistons is recovered from the inner pistons. For a calliper to move as a whole by far the most common reason is the rotor is not perfectly centred in the calliper.  The first thing I check is that hub face is perfectly clean, bare metal, where the rotor hats contacts it.  Then I check the that rotor is firmly held in place by at least 3 wheel nuts (or equivalent). If all of the above are confirmed to be in perfect alignment then I would check the piston sizes and ensure that the 3 inner pistons and 3 outer pistons have matching diameters (eg; 28/32/36mm).  I have seen a no name 4 spot calliper that had 1 of the 4 pistons a different diameter. Maybe I missed it, are both the callipers exhibiting the same problem? I would remove the transfer pipe and inspect it to make sure that there are no restrictions. Maybe you already have but if not I would return them with the video and have them confirm all of the above.   Hope that helps Cheers Gary    
    • If you have the original log book and it didn't have a chassis number quoted, then no money required.  I have "rechassied" a number of race cars, no problem as long as you have the original log book.   Cheers Gary
    • Well the good news is that it won't run any worse with an atmo bov than it does with no bov, I've owned a few Nissans over the years (r32, s15 and now r33), the stalling issue caused by a bov or no bov while still having an afm is easy enough to live with, most people get used to driving them and just feathering the throttle when you come to a stop to avoid it stalling. Changing to a proper ecu with a map sensor is ideal but in the short term I'd just slap in the bov if you really want the whoosh sound. I looked into the pass through type maf like the R35 one above but decided against it as the amount of oil and crap flowing through the hot side would mean you'd have to clean it often to keep it working.
×
×
  • Create New...