Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

the er34 neo is supported OK. no point running dual stage boost its pointless and unsafe. you wont make 220rwkw-230rwkw on the stock turbo. 1.1 bar will just mean more heat and more detation, you wont make any more power over 12psi on the stock turbo

well...who said it was stock :P ...i may have forgotten to mention it was a high-flowed type. still in excellenct condition says my mechanic ...aka Drift Garage.plus now its only running 4psi and i chopped a wrx to 10 pieces B) ...hahahaha......

im hoping 170 - 190 rwkw with my setup on my r33, which is now complete :D GTR Cooler 500hp tomeii pump, 3" dump, High flow cat, trust extream II catback, apexi pod, 11psi boost. Might even raise to boost a little under 1bar.

I am making close to 902kw at the wheels with a really sick mufflar and some stickers from Bankstown Smash repairs.

I have heard that this is quite a lot considering the car is nealy stock. Maybye because it has filth neons and 10 15inch subs in the back and the car is red.

Im a tosser!

What should I do to my 78 corrolla now it has stickers?

  • 1 month later...
im hoping 170 - 190 rwkw with my setup on my r33, which is now complete :P GTR Cooler 500hp tomeii pump, 3" dump, High flow cat, trust extream II catback, apexi pod, 11psi boost. Might even raise to boost a little under 1bar.

ended up making 205rwkw on 11.5 - 12psi.

218kw at the moment

hoping to hit 260 with more boost + power fc tune :sleep:

Only pulled upto 305.8hp (228.1kW) with my PFC and about 1bar of boost on stock turbos.

I gained 45hp mid range though so I'm happy with that.

But the top end is limited by the Injectors and Fuel Pump, so they are next. :P

  • 3 months later...

update on power: got my car dynoed and boost set propperly and stuff. 209.5rwkw on 11psi :whistling: the tuner and i are confident it will run into the 12s... But id be happy with a flat 13 with me driving it >_<

G-Max Wheels rear: 18x9.5 with 265’s front: 18x8.5

Tein hight and rebound adjustable suspension

Full 3inch custom exhaust with Magic Cat and twin Mufflers

T04 turbo on X-Force highmount manifold

Turbosmart 48mm Pro-Gate wastegate

100mm think Front Mount Inter Cooler

Blitz blow off valve

Sard fuel pressure Regulator

Sard 550cc injectors

Walbro 500 horsepower fuel pump

Motec Enginge Management System

Exceedy 5 puck clutch

Pod air filter

Oil catch can

Thermo fan

Bonnet vents

Isotta Steering wheel

DBA 4000series sloted disks alround with braided lines

Braided fuel-line, blow-by, breather and radiator overflow hoses

New chrome radiator overflow tank

Gates Racing radiator hoses

Viper 790VX Pager car alarm

http://www.pbase.com/r33_temptress/cars

Everything internal is getting done, and I am going to have to upgrade the injectors, pumps etc... they haven't been done yet though so I'll wait till it is all complete and running so I don't jump the gun with anything.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...