Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i found this today on j-spec

http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/index.php?ID=5053

and it is a GTR R33 for 23gs!! yes, u r rite , a GTR!! i know it is a S1 and has done quite a bit mileage( not even genuine), but it is a GTR with RB26.

i remember about a year ago, this was the price u pay for a GTST S2 R33.

it is killin me now as i just imported one myself for over 30gs.

so where do u think the price is heading?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103003-where-is-the-price-of-gtr-heading/
Share on other sites

down? the older the car gets the cheaper its gonna be. The importation laws have settled down, and the number of RAWS for R33's is at saturation point. More competition means cheaper prices, combine that with a cheap inital outlay and no outrageous profit margins and that's what you get. Although the local dealers won't have you believing any of that. :P

Half the time cars are expensive is because everyone's willing to pay the current market price, and dealers will bump the price of cheap cars to market price, because they know people will pay it. Although there's also the stupid thing that when a car is actually cheaper than market price, people automatically assume somethings wrong with it.

oh no, I didn't mean you, but in general, people usually assume something's wrong with a car if its cheaper than usual.

u r right, there are dealers who would still sell S1 GTR R33s for above 35 gs, and u know what? there are ppl who buy them, coz they think they are in good condition just because theri price.

and the margin is how much money they make.

im gonna lose so much money when i sell mine :O

^^ if that was the case than why did you buy a skyline..

you surely didn't buy it because of it's value keeping properties.. I bought it because I wanted a performance car..

you will have owned one of the best street drivable cars around.. and sure you'll lose money.. but it's def worth it!!..

and I doubt a R33 gtr will loose as much value %wise than an R33 gts-t..

What's the going rate on compliance for GTRs these days? $2,500 sounds pretty cheap.

It's a good price, but you'd also have to figure in costs of sourcing stock parts, Brembo pads if required, as well as all the other costs (eg tyres but that's a given).

razdollar. apparently 32 GTR compliance under sevs is now down to around $2500 too. I haven't been able to confirm this, but if it's true is makes buying a nice 93 or 94 model 32 a much more attractive option that what has been happening with people seeking out 89 and 90 32s almost exclusivley. (obvioulsy not anymore due to the new legislation).

Really? I haven't really bothered checking around at the moment, I just assumed GTR compliance was still over $3k.. (Non V-Spec) 32s would be cheaper as they don't have to worry about Brembo pads..

Oh well. When are you coming back Richo? Wet T-Shirt @ City RSL next Thursday :)

This is all very interesting, and its a good thing i saw this thread before doing my rebuild.

After speaking with Jspec (very helpful) im on the border of selling my R32 and buying an R33. For the price difference the car is alot newer, and less likely of course to breaking various parts.

One problem that i discovered - OEM parts for compliance, that could work out to be a HUGE cost!!!

Unless i was to stumble across a less that perfect compliance shop....

Has this made anyone else think the same way?

The price here has dropped massively in recent times as the cost of compliance has been slashed and the import duty has been dropped from what I here. The cost in Japan hasn't really dropped that much at all. Just feel for me, I bought my 33 GTR bit over 2 yrs ago, searched for the most perfect one I could lay my hands on, cost FOB 2.5mil yen, 15% duty + 10%GST, plus $7500 compliance as I was one of the 1st to go through the RAWS system. OUCH!!!!!

But having said that, it has been the most enjoyable car I have owned so far by far. . . . .

$2500 is the going rate for compliance on an R33 nowadays, but you'll usually get stung with cost of replacement of perishable parts like brakepads, discs etc. Sucky thing about SEVS compliance is that you need to use the same parts that the RAW has tested, ie OEM Nissan stuff.

R32 compliance is also dropping now (I think $3000 was the lowest I've seen, but then again it might have dropped since last month) as more RAWs get approved to do em.

Sounds like it's worth investigating Steve. I'd really like to see a 1.2M R33 in the flesh just to satisfy my doubts as to it being a sound car. I wonder if you'd miss the R32!? :D

Im definatly investigating, but yeah, i would miss the 32 - nothing beats the original!

I bought my 33 GTR bit over 2 yrs ago, searched for the most perfect one I could lay my hands on, cost FOB 2.5mil yen, 15% duty + 10%GST, plus $7500 compliance as I was one of the 1st to go through the RAWS system.  OUCH!!!!!

I feel for you Jason. Dude you must be like me putting your fingers in your ears singing to yourself trying to ignore current prices.

My R32 was Y1.1 plus the respray and panel repairs when it arrived! :) And then you see beautiful late model R32's with sensible mods going for less than I'm out of pocket.

I'm glad the car is so much fun to drive and work on! Eases the pain :)

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...