Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks folks,

Sorry about the whole "Tailshaft/Propshaft" thing. Trying to translate aussy english into Uk english can sometimes be challanging!

Shorten the tail/prop-shaft... Check....

Im guessing it's worth while getting it ballanced...

Chris

  • Replies 103
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Thanks folks,

Sorry about the whole "Tailshaft/Propshaft" thing. Trying to translate aussy english into Uk english can sometimes be challanging!

Shorten the tail/prop-shaft... Check....

Im guessing it's worth while getting it ballanced...

Chris

I would hope any decent shop would include that in the price...

ok asked for a r33 early model clutch slave cylinder today - was told there are 9 different ones - so more specific - i said suit rb25turbo roughly '93 model RWD... still came up with 2 choices - but the one he did offer me was $88! new

DD - you got a part number or anything or did u find there were 2 different ones - coz this guy wanted me to find vin#/chassis# to help define which one - but i told him its for a box conversion

thanks

update

box is bolted up - no modifying to the transtunnel and kept the standard crossmember but turned around (with spacers added)

getting the yokes swapped over on the tailshaft - pickup later in the week

ordered the r33 clutch slave cylinder - pickup tomorrow

HOPEFULLY it will be as easy as this!!! ;) should be finished by the end of the week :huh:

  • 3 weeks later...

awesome write up. :)

does anyone have the part number for the rb25 box slave cyl?

also, when changing from rb20 auto to rb20 with rb25 5 speed. what master cylinder can i use? only r32/ceffy/laurel? or wil a s13 one do the trick? or are they all the same?

cheers

matty

Edited by mattysaidso

shit i should've checked it when i bought it... :)

nissan dont give out part numbers for whatever reasons... but i ordered a series 1 / r33 / skyline slave cylinder - 93 model (early)

and i was given the correct one - i was told on here they're about $88 but the quote i got from nissan was like $110 - so i quoted the price and they actually did it for $88!!!

  • 3 months later...

great information, so basically i need a series 1 box with yoke and things should be fine

someone has also informed me a nissan terrano or z32 yoke will work

im also a bit interested about the piece needed to make the speedo drive work, does anyone have a pic of this?

Edited by SirRacer
great information, so basically i need a series 1 box with yoke and things should be fine

someone has also informed me a nissan terrano or z32 yoke will work

im also a bit interested about the piece needed to make the speedo drive work, does anyone have a pic of this?

Its piss easy dude. Someone has pics I think.

But the actual cog bit, that goes inside the gearbox, the rb25 one should be red. You pull that off the rb25 electronic speedo gearing thing. Then you pull the one off the navara one, and somehow get the rb25 one on. Just the gear, not the metal spline thing.

Did you read the first page?

You need.

S1 RB25box and yoke

S1 Rb25 box clutch slave

Navara speedo drive (code is somewhere on here) -(pics are also somewhere on sau, might take 30mins of searching tho)

Custom/shortened tailshaft

Move the cross member

Modification plate

I seriously cant think of anything else we needed. While its out tho I would clean up or get a new clutch, and machine the fly and pressure plates back. Just saves on money. I would also put a cheap oil in the box for a month or so, cleans it out, and you dont throw away good money on good oil if the box is stuffed.

Good luck!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...