Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeh it would fit just fine. Remember our car has no inner gaurds. I could afford to have the header pipes longer than that still.

Turbine

But Carl is one of the RB20 brotherhood who is ringing the RB20s neck in the US, so i think he was referring to his Silvia beign LHD :D

You cant really tell what the manifolds are made of as it looks to have a coatting of some kind...could be mild steel or stainless steel pipe. Things is it pipe , not tube ...so bigger, heavier, but probably more durable

Could well have been my one?

Or the one from Rons old car which went to SYD  :)

Could well have been, from memory it was back in the early 90's, a red GTSR.

Funny how I still remember that manifold, I think we wanted to fit one similar to the Starion we have.

Turbine

Could well have been, from memory it was back in the early 90's, a red GTSR.

Funny how I still remember that manifold, I think we wanted to fit one similar to the Starion we have.

Turbine

Not mine then :P

Sounds like the muppet Fred Bruno who turned a Aus Spec GTS II into a mock-up (4-door) GTS-R and claimed all these big and wonderful things (which were

Horrid car lol.

Speaking of all the talk about GTS-R manifolds, im making enquires now to have it copied through some avenues.

Will advise on the possibilty of this endeavour late next week provided cost is reasonable. Anyone care to throw a figure out there for what they would prepare to pay for a proper job, not some e-bay hock

Will advise on the possibilty of this endeavour late next week provided cost is reasonable. Anyone care to throw a figure out there for what they would prepare to pay for a proper job, not some e-bay hock

We would consider one around $500 but it want to be good and a low mount with clearance for a bigger comp cover than standard.

Not mine then  :)

Sounds like the muppet Fred Bruno who turned a Aus Spec GTS II  into a mock-up (4-door) GTS-R and claimed all these big and wonderful things (which were

Horrid car  lol.

Speaking of all the talk about GTS-R manifolds, im making enquires now to have it copied through some avenues.

Will advise on the possibilty of this endeavour late next week provided cost is reasonable. Anyone care to throw a figure out there for what they would prepare to pay for a proper job, not some e-bay hock

I use to work at a specialist welding company, and we used a compnay that did awesone one piece Mandrel bending. Had the ability to do quite complex shapes...asll out of one piece. When i had my R31 i looked at getting them to make me some manifolds similar to the RB20DET-R manifold....the 6 lenghts of bent up tube to make the manifold out of the correct grade of stainless was about $900 :P

The to get the flanges laser cut etc...it gets cheaper with volume...but its pricey.

To make one up out of welded sections would be a lot cheaper, but typicall if a tubular manifold cracks it cracks at the welded joint...

Funny you say that Ash as after I made my power figure the tuner put it down to my manifold being a "freak" and suggested the tuning characteristics of it are perfect for gas speed to spool a turbine urgently and keep the gasses flowing high in the rpm range as you well know from your previous setup which was no slouch at all.

He was planning to price up replicas upon my next service but as you mentioned I doubt $500 would cover a decent job. Dont hold out Ash on getting prices as I would love love an external gate version but would not dare hack up my one. The external version posted earlier looks good to me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...