Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ie: Which systems are good / bad - Experiences, costs, pros, cons etc ??

Happy to share my experiences on Quicktrak --- Had it my VT SS - (modded) - No-one touched it !

When ever the alarm went off (inadvertantly) - within 5 mins, I'd have the call from Quicktrak.

BF

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1037-how-about-a-security-topic/
Share on other sites

I don't think we need a security section... I think the less sections the better, instead of having a section for every little thing, and then having 10 threads in them in a year, I say minimise sections...

This would expose the threads to more eyes as they would have to be posted in a more highly read section such as General Discussion or something...

Andrew. :uh-huh:

I think we should run with it Porgie .... as I'd think alot of new guys may be wondering what to fit up to their pride and joy, and most old skoo Sky owners (if not all) will certainly have an alarm and a good story / feedback to go with it .....

I for one would certainly like to hear from anyone with either a Brant Nemesis alarm, or a Quik Trak system ... I can't decide at the moment and need some help :(

Good stuff fellas -

Combining audio and security is a good idea - I know not a lot of ppl like to talk security for fear of some theiving so and so being able to identify etc. However, I think the more said, the better informed we all are therefore the more secure we all are.

I want to know about putting two alarms/imobilizers/tacking systems in the same vehilce.

Also about physical security stuff you can do ??

Cheers,

BF

Originally posted by brendanf

I want to know about putting two alarms/imobilizers/tacking systems in the same vehilce.

Also about physical security stuff you can do ??

Cheers,

BF

Actually, we've got two alarms in our Saab, coz the quiktrack couldn't handle the wierd locks that it had.

Basically we have 2 remotes, both can lock the doors (but only the factory alarm can do the deadlocking or open boot.)

Verdict - pain in the arse - two different buttons to do everything.

Wouldn't live without the Quiktrack though.

I would like to put both a Quik Trak and Brant system on but I feel it would be a pain .... Does the fautre list of the Quik Trak compare to the Brant Nemesis or the Boomerang alarm system ??

As for cost of Quik Trak, here is an e-mail my mate recieved from them regarding the system ..... I have e-mailed Quik Trak but they never respond to my queries ???

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------

11/3/02. Hi ******. Thank you for your enquiry.

We will fit the complete QuikTrak system to your car, furnish 12 months, 24 hours a day monitoring and GST for a total cost of $1896.50. Thereafter, the annual monitoring cost is only $300.

We can install at your home, or place of work, or any undercover location or at our Lindfield workshop.

Installation will take about 4 hours and I need about 2 days notice to make install arrangements.

Please call me on 9413 8141 to take the relative details and make all of the necessary arrangements.

Regards,

James Kemsley,

Account Manager,

Direct Sales,

9413 8141.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...