Jump to content
SAU Community

EL luminous instrument cluster kits

walkoau

By walkoau,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

try this mob... www.speedhut.com they're willing to make em if you send em a gauge to base one on, and you can get 20 people to buy em. I asked em, and they agreed to use cyberstork templates instead of gauges. however they count the GTSt's n GTR's as seperate designs.

  • Replies 130
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

yeah the holes where the gauges sit on the cluster are different. So you can't place a GTR EL cluster onto a GTSt cluster.

Also if you make holes for both the EL will look bad because of random holes in the center of the RPM gauge.

lwells Grand Master

lwells

Posted
Posted
Has anyone got a spare set of dial faces from a R32 GTS-t and an R32 GT-R?

LW.

BUMP.

I have posted a request in the WTB section. If I can get the dial faces organised I will contact SpeedHut and arrange for them to be shipped so we can get a group buy going.

Are any R33 guys interested?

Thread is here (or see sig): http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=40141

Cheers,

Lucien.

lwells Grand Master

lwells

Posted
Posted

Just to add to my previous post, my thinking is this: we get all the relevent dials to them, then get them to setup relevant pages on their model development section (http://www.speedhut.com/15orders.asp). That way we don't have to worry about collecting money and converting it, etc, etc.

Once the pages are up we can setup (ie. advertise) the group buy through SAU and SDU. Only problem I see is shipping -- it might be easier (read: cheaper) to get them all shipped in one batch to Australia and then redistribute rather than having SpeedHut send invidual packages.

Thoughts/comments/suggestions?

LW.

lwells Grand Master

lwells

Posted
Posted
sorry if this has been asked before...

but can you get the EL gauges for a R34 GTT?

Well we could always send some R34 gauge faces to SpeedHut with the R32 GT-R ones, but I am not sure there would be enough interested. Having said that, there are a lot more R34 GT-Ts in New Zealand, so the SDU guys might be able to make up the numbers.

The only problem would be getting a set of the dial faces.... Any suggestions? :)

LW.

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

hmm maybe I could send the busted ones that one of my mates has at his spare parts shop lol.

/me looks at the R34 GTt gauge he was tryin to fit on his R32... hmmm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...